Engine Removal

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

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37

Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 24, 2005

#21

• Nov 24, 2005

• #21

Yes, that is the part that makes a mess. Just crawl under there and unbolt the pan and let it all drain out. It makes the whole process easier, look at historics picture for reference. Im just messing with you historic.

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Nov 25, 2005

#22

• Nov 25, 2005

• #22

You live and you learn (funny I keep preaching this to my kids - you know, you mess up but it builds character!).

I pulled to converter out with the engine AND the tranny dip stick was still attached to the back of the head, off course it came out with the motor leaving a hole for the fluid to escape.

While this thing is apart I am going to replace the input (front) seal on the tranny. Where did you guys order from?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

Cobain03

Active Member

Aug 27, 2003

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36

Lexington, Ky

Nov 25, 2005

#23

• Nov 25, 2005

• #23

advanced auto parts lol

 

krash kendall

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Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Nov 25, 2005

#24

• Nov 25, 2005

• #24

HistoricMustang said:

I pulled the converter out with the engine AND the tranny dip stick was still attached to the back of the head, off course it came out with the motor leaving a hole for the fluid to escape.

Click to expand...

I've got my dipstick tube attached to a bell housing bolt which helps to prevent this. With the ford though, like I said earlier, I prefer to unbolt the converter first. If you want to keep it attached though, You can "bump" the engine untill the converter drain plug is accessable behind the dust sheild and let the fluid out first. With my old chevys I always left the converter on as they are more of a pain to get off.

 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member

Apr 20, 2004

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Salt Lake City, Utah

Nov 25, 2005

#25

• Nov 25, 2005

• #25

I also unbolt the torque converter from underneath and then pull the engine. Gets rid of the mess, thing won't drip at all, I was just paranoid about tranny fluid getting on my paint. That was just rotten luck Historic, it's the little details that get us. I mean look at me, I luck bad enough to kill an oil pump, and then have that eat away a cam bearing. Oh well you live and you learn, in the words of Ronstang "If you aren't breaking ****, you ain't learning."

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Nov 26, 2005

#26

• Nov 26, 2005

• #26

I always pull the tranny with the motor, it's just easier for me. Drain the converter if you have a plug, drain the pan, get one of those plastic tailsahft covers and put a plug in the speedo hole and you won't spill a drop.

The reason I pull them as a unit is that reassembly is easier that way. I would rather bolt the tranny on from the tailgate of my truck than laying on my back. Bolt access is way easier, and seating the converter is too. Also, freshening up the tranny while having the drive train out is a lot more convenient. I usually rebuild the tranny at the same time as the engine.

Hostoric, you can add more tranny fluid to the converter than that. They say to fill it half full, which could be 4-5 quarts, depending on your converter.

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Nov 27, 2005

#27

• Nov 27, 2005

• #27

Me and the little lady and the pressure washer had a "threesome" going today.

The engine compartment cleaned up rather well.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 9, 2005

#28

• Dec 9, 2005

• #28

Dropped by Advanced Auto Parts today and ordered Mrs. HistoricMustang's engine for the Coupe. Also pick up a helicoil kit to repair the drain plug in oil pan.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

krash kendall

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Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Dec 9, 2005

#29

• Dec 9, 2005

• #29

I use helicoils quite a bit and I wouldn't have thought there is enough meat in the bottom of an oil pan for one to be effective as there is only about 3-4 threads in the pan. Be sure to use red Lock-Tite on the helicoil and cut the excess off from the inside of the pan to prevent it from unwinding when you loosen the drain plug in the future.

 

Max Power

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Jul 31, 2003

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St Paul

Dec 10, 2005

#30

• Dec 10, 2005

• #30

Who builds Advanced AP's engines? I have heard horror stories about chain store engines.

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 10, 2005

#31

• Dec 10, 2005

• #31

krash kendall said:

I use helicoils quite a bit and I wouldn't have thought there is enough meat in the bottom of an oil pan for one to be effective as there is only about 3-4 threads in the pan. Be sure to use red Lock-Tite on the helicoil and cut the excess off from the inside of the pan to prevent it from unwinding when you loosen the drain plug in the future.

Click to expand...

Thanks, that is just about what I did. It turned out OK.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 10, 2005

#32

• Dec 10, 2005

• #32

Max Power said:

Who builds Advanced AP's engines? I have heard horror stories about chain store engines.

Click to expand...

Yep, I checked all of this out. They are made by Recon Automotive Remanufacturing, Inc. out of Philadelphia, PA. There literature is kind of cool.

http://www.reconengines.com/products.html

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 11, 2005

#33

• Dec 11, 2005

• #33

Another busy day on my quest to get the "new" motor in Mrs. HistoricMustang's Coupe by the first of the year. Picked up the new water pump and seal for timing chain cover and pump seal for the C-4 tranny. The seal on timing cover was a b****. The pump seal was a pretty easy change. Paint, paint, paint and clean, clean, clean on the other parts.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

HistoricMustang

Active Member

Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 14, 2005

#34

• Dec 14, 2005

• #34

Picked up the engine today and so far somewhat impressed.

Came on wooden pallet completely enclosed by corrugated box. The engine is wrapped in plastic bag with the rust preventing paper enclosed and is painted. Also, a complete gasket kit was enclosed. New oil pump (Melling) and rod come with the kit. A lot of lubricate was used in assembling the engine as some has begun filling the plastic bag.

Will be the weekend before I get her (the engine) up on the motor stand.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

G

geordie

Founding Member

May 10, 2002

576

2

19

Dec 15, 2005

#35

• Dec 15, 2005

• #35

I pulled my engine my about six months ago, first time I have done anything like this. I would offer the following advice.

1. Spend $15 at your local bookstore and buy How to Rebuild Small Block Ford engines by Tom Monroe (ISBN: 0912656891). This book walks you through the whole process of engine removal and disassembly, as well as rebuild.
2. Buy a digital camera, or borrow one off your good lady. It will allow you to take loads of pictures without worrying about development costs. Photograph everything during the disassembly and removal. Don't rely on your memory, it could be months before you put the engine back in. I currently have over 600 photos of my work. Back up the photographs onto a CD every couple of weeks, if you have kids, so they don't get wiped off the computer.
3. Buy a selection of trash bags, freezer bags, cardboard tags, sandwich bags and tote bins. Bag and tag everything, even date it so that you can relate it back to your photograpgh collection.
4. Buy a good engine stand, check out the hardware to attach the engine to the stand, think ahead all the time, what will you need to do the job.
5. Keep a log of the disassembly, again it all aids the memory process.
6. Take your time.
7. Think safety all the time, again the book will help you understand the risks and how to mitigate them. Get a friend to help you with the big lift.
8. Sort your parts into keepers and sellers. Don't throw anything out that could be sold on E-Bay to a restorartion guy. It will all help to fund the project.

Good luck. I really need to get on with mine. I've stripped all the engine bay of wiring etc. i need to get it painted.

Geordie

 

302 coupe

Founding Member

Mar 2, 2000

1,952

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Macon, Ga.

Dec 15, 2005

#36

• Dec 15, 2005

• #36

Hey Henry, shoot me an e-mail or pm if you're interested in doing some work on that C4 before putting it all back together. Rebuilds are cheap and easy, no better time to do it than now.

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 15, 2005

#37

• Dec 15, 2005

• #37

302 coupe said:

Hey Henry, shoot me an e-mail or pm if you're interested in doing some work on that C4 before putting it all back together. Rebuilds are cheap and easy, no better time to do it than now.

Click to expand...

Thanks 302.................the C4 had a rebuild a few years ago (did not pull it with the motor). I did change the pump, pan (filter also) and rear seals while I had access just to be safe.

I am going to flip a coin on whether to put the converter in the tranny before sticking engine back in or go ahead and attach to converter to the engine unless you gentlemen convince me one way is MUCH better than the other.

Damn the torpedo's - full speed ahead as I want the engine in by next weekend.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

krash kendall

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Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Dec 15, 2005

#38

• Dec 15, 2005

• #38

You can not attatch the convertor to the engine first! You have to put it on the input shaft of the tranny and spin it back and forth a few times to engage it fully!

 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003

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Confederate States of America

Dec 15, 2005

#39

• Dec 15, 2005

• #39

krash kendall said:

You can not attatch the convertor to the engine first! You have to put it on the input shaft of the tranny and spin it back and forth a few times to engage it fully!

Click to expand...

krash...........why are those flat spots on the converter shaft? Does the shaft mate ( I love that word ) with another flat spot?

 

krash kendall

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Nov 19, 2004

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Aldergrove, B.C. Canada

Dec 15, 2005

#40

• Dec 15, 2005

• #40

Yes, it engages two or three times when spinning it with the pump and internals. It will index deeper in the bellhousing each time. Then when installing the motor make sure the drain plug on the T/C is lined up with the hole on the flex plate when you bolt up the bellhousing. Bolt the T/C to the flex plate last.

I know you built your other car from scratch and went whole-hog into racing with it, but is this the first automatic you've worked on?