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Engine Removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter Cobain03
  • Start date Start date Nov 21, 2005
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68keyblr

20+ Year Stangneter
Mar 17, 2003
946
20
49
Arizona
Dec 15, 2005
#41
  • Dec 15, 2005
  • #41
krash kendall said:
You can not attatch the convertor to the engine first! You have to put it on the input shaft of the tranny and spin it back and forth a few times to engage it fully!
Click to expand...

Krash speaks the truth. Learned this the hard way and ruined a freshly rebuilt transmission!
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
Dec 18, 2005
#42
  • Dec 18, 2005
  • #42
Spent Saturday doing prep work. Checked all the head bolts, connecting rod bolts, etc for correct torque specs. The oil pan, timing cover (new seal), balancer, new oil pump and shaft and the intake went on. Also drank a few beers.

Then took the Misses out to dinner.

Interesting set up on that thing that goes round and round and works the fuel pump lever. The new engine had two of them things. One as on the original engine and one that also "spins" to take some of the pressure off the fuel pump rod.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
Dec 18, 2005
#43
  • Dec 18, 2005
  • #43
Back in Black.

Will start the installation this PM......................

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
Dec 18, 2005
#44
  • Dec 18, 2005
  • #44
HistoricMustang said:
Interesting set up on that thing that goes round and round and works the fuel pump lever. The new engine had two of them things. One as on the original engine and one that also "spins" to take some of the pressure off the fuel pump rod.

Historic, this is known as a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric. I had to hunt one of these puppies down to work properly with my hydraulic roller cam/timing chain set and old style timing cover. The 1 piece would not fit, was ~1/8 too big and touched the timing chain cover. Spent some time on :SNSign: learning about all these damn variables before getting the right parts. Nice pics, good luck finishing up with the install.
Click to expand...
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Dec 18, 2005
#45
  • Dec 18, 2005
  • #45
Got through the day with only one minor problem. The new water pump has some variations from the former unit (you know how that goes) and the water pump pulley was barely touching the crank pulley...............no problem as the grinder took care of the interference.

The multitude of beer prevented me from getting started on the installation of engine..............still a one man project!



HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

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19stang66

Member
Apr 16, 2003
689
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Jan 8, 2006
#46
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #46
Historic, why did you choose to paint your block and other parts black?? any particular reason or did it come that way? Anyone else have reasons for the color they chose to paint their engines? or is it just a preference? Thanks. I just assembled my neighbors new cherry picker and am getting anxious to start pulling the engine out, this thread has been and will be of much help!
 

Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
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Lexington, Ky
Jan 8, 2006
#47
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #47
ok guys im back...

we've started pulling the engine. disconnected all the electrical, lines and whatnot, and heres the quesitnos that seems to be floating around above. should the t/c be removed with engine? many people says yes and many say no. whats the deal?

edit: one more Q... does the tranny fluid need to be drained if it is not being removed? can you raise the tranmission up a little bit and slide the engine out?
 

geostang351

Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Danb., CT
Jan 8, 2006
#48
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #48
I would remove the TC from the motor. If you don't.... what a mess! You could drain it and pull it I guess, but you're only talkng 4 nuts to remove.

If the TC is staying in the car w/ the tranny, you do not need to drain the tranny. If you are pullin the tranny out with the motor, drain what you can or put in a slip yoke in the tail shaft to prevent all the fuild from coming out that end when the two are being removed.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jan 8, 2006
#49
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #49
Take it off, it will make a huge huge mess, and can be damage the tranny if not done properly.
 

Cobain03

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Aug 27, 2003
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Lexington, Ky
Jan 8, 2006
#50
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #50
whats the best way to remove the convertor?
 

geostang351

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Mar 30, 2005
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Danb., CT
Jan 8, 2006
#51
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #51
Go underneath and look at tranny from under the engine. You will see an inspection plate that is about 7" wide x 4" high. It is held in place by two bolts. Remove these and it will expose the fly wheel. From there, you can see the nuts that hold the TC to the fly wheel but you can only see one nut at a time. They are spaced about every 90* around the flywheel. To access all the nuts (4), you need to turn the motor by either the harmonic balancer using a large socket of at the fly wheel by turning the flywheel (Balancer is easier but you have to get from under the car each time). Turn the motor so you can access each nut one at a time and remove them. Once all four are off, You can side the motor from the tranny (assuming the motor is no longer attached at the motor mounts).

Make sure the tranny tube is not secured to the enginge block unsually at the head. You'll break your tube and another mess will occur.
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
Jan 8, 2006
#52
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #52
19stang66 said:
Historic, why did you choose to paint your block and other parts black?? any particular reason or did it come that way? Anyone else have reasons for the color they chose to paint their engines? or is it just a preference? Thanks. I just assembled my neighbors new cherry picker and am getting anxious to start pulling the engine out, this thread has been and will be of much help!
Click to expand...

They actually came in black......................sorry can not remember the year but I believe the originals were black??????

I just put this pick up in another thread.................all black, including the exhaust manifolds.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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19stang66

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Apr 16, 2003
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Jan 8, 2006
#53
  • Jan 8, 2006
  • #53
Thanks, do you have more pictures? I need to get a better idea of what all black looks like. I know there was a thread on here not to long ago with peoples engine bays???
 

HistoricMustang

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Apr 11, 2003
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Confederate States of America
Jan 9, 2006
#54
  • Jan 9, 2006
  • #54
19stang66 said:
Thanks, do you have more pictures? I need to get a better idea of what all black looks like. I know there was a thread on here not to long ago with peoples engine bays???
Click to expand...

The black manifolds are not yet on.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com

 

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Cobain03

Active Member
Aug 27, 2003
996
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Lexington, Ky
Jan 9, 2006
#55
  • Jan 9, 2006
  • #55
i have my motor ready to lift out now, but do all think it might be better to take the motor and trany out together so it might be easy to get back in, i am told that getting it to line up will be hard, that it would be easy with it out on the ground and then put it all in together ????
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
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36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Jan 9, 2006
#56
  • Jan 9, 2006
  • #56
It's not that hard to line up, especially if you have an engine tilter. You'll need one to pull them both out together anyway.
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
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46
Confederate States of America
Jan 9, 2006
#57
  • Jan 9, 2006
  • #57
krash kendall said:
It's not that hard to line up, especially if you have an engine tilter. You'll need one to pull them both out together anyway.
Click to expand...

I left my C-4 in the car and it all went back together OK..................in and out done by me and me and Budweiser.

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
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Jan 12, 2006
#58
  • Jan 12, 2006
  • #58
Well, crap has hit the fan with the new motor. It is a 68 302 engine which uses a 28 oz. balancer/flywheel set up. I believe the engine that came out of the car must have a 50 oz set up. Getting a vibration!

Does anyone have a chart that can confirm the E1TE B4A balancer is infact a 50 oz.?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

HistoricMustang

Active Member
Apr 11, 2003
2,359
0
46
Confederate States of America
Jan 13, 2006
#59
  • Jan 13, 2006
  • #59
HistoricMustang said:
Well, crap has hit the fan with the new motor. It is a 68 302 engine which uses a 28 oz. balancer/flywheel set up. I believe the engine that came out of the car must have a 50 oz set up. Getting a vibration!

Does anyone have a chart that can confirm the E1TE B4A balancer is infact a 50 oz.?

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
Click to expand...

Don't tell me I have stumped the panel!

HistoricMustang
www.historicmustang.com
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Jan 13, 2006
#60
  • Jan 13, 2006
  • #60
I ripped this off another site, via google:

"E1TE is the beginning of a part number for a 81 truck, so it probally is the 50 oz balancer.... 81 and up 302 had these, 302 before 81 had the 28 oz..."

I personnally can not vouch for the info, but, as you know, both the flywheel and the balancer must match weights.
 
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