Engine swap
- Thread starter ScreamingMimi
- Start date
You got some money? Rear end, five lug all around, all around new suspension, new/used trans, and motor mounts. And If you go all new, that adds up to more than selling this and buying a V8 car. Most guys here will say the exact same thing. They saved me a lifetime of troubles and money. If you can, sell that and buy a rolling chassis 66 that had a 289 in it and go from there....but it is your money, good luck
I already have a V8 donor car - getting parts isn't an issue - just any tips and tricks or warnings would be appreciated since I am doing the labor myself. 
by the way - aquisition of car, aquisition of 302, 302 clean up and inspection, removal of I6, rhino-lined trunk and undercarriage, cleaned and repainted engine compartment, removal of exhaust, and line up of good, inspected replacement suspension parts were all completed in 6 weeks, and i have LESS THAN $1500.00 invested - it's called horse trading and doing it yourself for all those out there that think restoring or modifying a classic mustang is a time and money consuming process - IT IS ONLY IF YOU LET IT BE!!!!
by the way - aquisition of car, aquisition of 302, 302 clean up and inspection, removal of I6, rhino-lined trunk and undercarriage, cleaned and repainted engine compartment, removal of exhaust, and line up of good, inspected replacement suspension parts were all completed in 6 weeks, and i have LESS THAN $1500.00 invested - it's called horse trading and doing it yourself for all those out there that think restoring or modifying a classic mustang is a time and money consuming process - IT IS ONLY IF YOU LET IT BE!!!!
1320stang
Founding Member
If the V8 donor car is the afforementioned '71 Torino, good luck swapping suspension parts over to the '66.
$1500? I've got 2 running and driving cars that I've invested less than that in. A '94 Chrysler LHS I bought for $50 and a '89 Isuzu Amigo I gave $300 for. I've put 35k on the LHS in the past 3 years, don't tell me how to horse trade.
The definition of restoring is taking back to original, specifically, the way it rolled off the assembly line, and yes, even with horse trading, it is time consuming and can be expensive. Horse trading connotates that you are trading something, services, or parts you already have. You've either had to work for those parts or trade services for them. Either of which translates to money. If it's not costing you time or money, you've obviously had some luck in getting a well preserved 'stang to begin with.
$1500? I've got 2 running and driving cars that I've invested less than that in. A '94 Chrysler LHS I bought for $50 and a '89 Isuzu Amigo I gave $300 for. I've put 35k on the LHS in the past 3 years, don't tell me how to horse trade.
The definition of restoring is taking back to original, specifically, the way it rolled off the assembly line, and yes, even with horse trading, it is time consuming and can be expensive. Horse trading connotates that you are trading something, services, or parts you already have. You've either had to work for those parts or trade services for them. Either of which translates to money. If it's not costing you time or money, you've obviously had some luck in getting a well preserved 'stang to begin with.
WORTH
20+ Year Stangneter 
ScreamingMimi said:I already have a V8 donor car - getting parts isn't an issue - just any tips and tricks or warnings would be appreciated since I am doing the labor myself.
, If you have a donor car, everything will be pretty obvious. The rear swap is easy, front end is all bolt on stuff, and the engine swap is a piece of cake. No real words of wisdom, just buya case of beer and have at it
WORTH
20+ Year Stangneter
The definition of restoring is taking back to original, specifically, the way it rolled off the assembly line, and yes, even with horse trading, it is time consuming and can be expensive. .-1320
__________________
For some yes, not for all, some of us like to build a car the way we want them, not the way Ford wanted them.
__________________
For some yes, not for all, some of us like to build a car the way we want them, not the way Ford wanted them.
LMan
Founding Member
ScreamingMimi said:I already have a V8 donor car - getting parts isn't an issue - just any tips and tricks or warnings would be appreciated since I am doing the labor myself.
well, since you've got it all figured out, why are you asking us?
..and I don't like trading horses...I never learned to ride one
Pakrat
Founding Member
WORTH said:
While I agree with that, I do not consider it restoring by definition, it is converting or restomodding, but to restore means to bring back to like new. If you had an antique piece of furniture but think the original cherry finish is undesirable and white paint looks better, try convincing a collector it has merely been restored and see if he'll pay the full price. My guess is no, even if the paint is perfect.
WORTH
20+ Year Stangneter
Pakrat said:
I'll remember that next time I buy a Cherry Setee
, Oh and I agree with your definition, but I still like it MY WAY 
Pakrat
Founding Member
So do I actually, more and more so with each and every year of ownership, (well, my way not your way 
) but I have also let go of reffering to my car as restored or original in any sense of the word. I do throw around refreshed and refurbished once in a while though.
) but I have also let go of reffering to my car as restored or original in any sense of the word. I do throw around refreshed and refurbished once in a while though.My car is numbers matching, third owner - still have dealer window decals - that, i do believe, covers my car in a "well preserved condition" except for the damage by the previous owner's daughter which will negate the numbers matching once i replace the body panels 
- second of all - no the donor isn't the 71 torino the donor is a 66 mustang that had a 289 at one time and is missing most body panels, that thankfully i don't need - I am a member of a Classic car club based out of Michigan and South Carolina. my husband sandblasts car parts and panels for trade, but we are in a network of people who trade parts and services for classic vehicles that they are restoring that stretches from coast to coast. AND the car is going to be show quality - anybody can invest $500 in a classic car and drive a rust bucket - you get what you pay for - but you can still drive a beautiful show ready classic mustang without breaking the bank. i know. this isn't my first restoration, only my first CONVERSION TO A V8. so enough of the vicious and snide remarks - i thought this forum was for possible good advice, not insults - 
1954 Ford Fairlane
1964 1/2 Ford Thunderbird hardtop convertible
1966 Ford Mustand - original I6 that runs like a champ
1966 Sprint Mustang currently being converted to V8
1967 Chevrolet small window C10 (last one they made) with full rake suspension, custom paint with ghost flames, steel body modifications, 350 roller rocker and cam engine - custom floor mounted floor shifter, TH350 with shift kit, Jag Lucas tribar headlights, mercedes bucket seats, etc etc etc
1969 Shelby 429 w/shaker - 5 years running BEST IN SHOW
- second of all - no the donor isn't the 71 torino the donor is a 66 mustang that had a 289 at one time and is missing most body panels, that thankfully i don't need - I am a member of a Classic car club based out of Michigan and South Carolina. my husband sandblasts car parts and panels for trade, but we are in a network of people who trade parts and services for classic vehicles that they are restoring that stretches from coast to coast. AND the car is going to be show quality - anybody can invest $500 in a classic car and drive a rust bucket - you get what you pay for - but you can still drive a beautiful show ready classic mustang without breaking the bank. i know. this isn't my first restoration, only my first CONVERSION TO A V8. so enough of the vicious and snide remarks - i thought this forum was for possible good advice, not insults - 1954 Ford Fairlane
1964 1/2 Ford Thunderbird hardtop convertible
1966 Ford Mustand - original I6 that runs like a champ
1966 Sprint Mustang currently being converted to V8
1967 Chevrolet small window C10 (last one they made) with full rake suspension, custom paint with ghost flames, steel body modifications, 350 roller rocker and cam engine - custom floor mounted floor shifter, TH350 with shift kit, Jag Lucas tribar headlights, mercedes bucket seats, etc etc etc
1969 Shelby 429 w/shaker - 5 years running BEST IN SHOW
As others have said, it would be more cost effective to go buy a V8 car and rebuild it rather than to swap the 6 for an 8.
To each to HER own though.
I assume you are swapping to the 289. You will want to swap the rearends...completely on either car. Unless you want to pull the axles out of the v8 car and put them in your 6 car. You will then need to replace the front spindles, shocks, and springs. You will need the drums (or disks) from the donor for the front and rear. That should cover suspension and the 5 lug conversion.
As for swapping engines....It is pretty straight fwd. You will need different exhaust, a better built transmission, different motor mounts, and some patience. Parts will add up quickly, even if you have a donor car. Good luck with your conversion.
Just remember...do it once, do it right.
To each to HER own though.
I assume you are swapping to the 289. You will want to swap the rearends...completely on either car. Unless you want to pull the axles out of the v8 car and put them in your 6 car. You will then need to replace the front spindles, shocks, and springs. You will need the drums (or disks) from the donor for the front and rear. That should cover suspension and the 5 lug conversion.
As for swapping engines....It is pretty straight fwd. You will need different exhaust, a better built transmission, different motor mounts, and some patience. Parts will add up quickly, even if you have a donor car. Good luck with your conversion.
Just remember...do it once, do it right.
1320stang
Founding Member
Well, that's different, you didn't explain yourself too well in the original post. You obviously have had some experience, and if you'll stay around for a while, you'll see that about 99% of posts that are worded with as little information as you first posted, do not. Sorry for typecasting you.
You sorta started the smack talking (which happens often from newbies on the board, or just about on any board) by insinuating that we kinda don't know what we're doing. At least that was the way I took it. I see know that you meant it in a more enthusiastic way, rather than a rub our noses in it sort of way. You have to remember that the typed word doesn't have the voice inflections that the spoked word adds to a conversation. Now that you know my point of view, go back and re-read what you typed and see if you couldn't have jumped to the same conclusion that I did.
That said, you're husband is putting in labor in order to trade out for either other parts or other labor which still translates into money and/or time and as my wife constantly reminds me as I do favors to others, "you're time isn't free".
Others were right, it is easier to start out with a V8 car, which is generally what we as a forum, suggest, especially for a newbie. Not to say it can't be done, but its easy to get frustrated and quit a project. Since you all are more experienced, we'll assume you know more of the stuff that is involved. Before anything else, rust on a Mustang is your biggest enemy, and yes every Mustang has some. Cowl and torque boxes are the worst as far as repairing. If you have a donor V8 car, you have probably the sweetest start for a conversion as you have a car the supposably has all the parts in all the right places, so it should be a simple matter of removing and replacing as you go. You didn't make any mention of a tranny, the I6 tranny won't bolt up to the 302. All the suspension should come from the V8 car, or be replaced for parts that are supposed to go on a V8 car. Your second post sounds like you replaced the stock I6 suspension parts with the same in new, shoulda gotten V8 parts, unless you did and didn't explain that. The engine compartment wiring harness will be different if I remember correctly, but I believe can be modified by lengthening some wires to work. There's a difference in V8 motor mounts for the '66 cars, early '66 cars had cast iron mounts (which are weaker in a performance standpoint, but fine for a warmed over stock motor) while the later ones has steel mounts (which are stronger but raise the engine by about 1"), so if you don't have mounts for the V8, there's a tidbit. Radiator will have to be changed out for a V8 one. I'm not sure if the driveshafts are the same, I'm guessing the yoke isn't, unless the I6 has a C4 (you never said what tranny).
I'm kinda answering questions that you may or may not know here. Not trying to be rude, but can you tell us what you already know you'll have to do? I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of stuff and to be quite truthful, the I6 to V8 thing has been answered here to death. We've been clamoring for a classic FAQ page forever as I'm not sure the search function works all the time (have you tried searching on StangNet for the conversion?).
You sorta started the smack talking (which happens often from newbies on the board, or just about on any board) by insinuating that we kinda don't know what we're doing. At least that was the way I took it. I see know that you meant it in a more enthusiastic way, rather than a rub our noses in it sort of way. You have to remember that the typed word doesn't have the voice inflections that the spoked word adds to a conversation. Now that you know my point of view, go back and re-read what you typed and see if you couldn't have jumped to the same conclusion that I did.
That said, you're husband is putting in labor in order to trade out for either other parts or other labor which still translates into money and/or time and as my wife constantly reminds me as I do favors to others, "you're time isn't free".
Others were right, it is easier to start out with a V8 car, which is generally what we as a forum, suggest, especially for a newbie. Not to say it can't be done, but its easy to get frustrated and quit a project. Since you all are more experienced, we'll assume you know more of the stuff that is involved. Before anything else, rust on a Mustang is your biggest enemy, and yes every Mustang has some. Cowl and torque boxes are the worst as far as repairing. If you have a donor V8 car, you have probably the sweetest start for a conversion as you have a car the supposably has all the parts in all the right places, so it should be a simple matter of removing and replacing as you go. You didn't make any mention of a tranny, the I6 tranny won't bolt up to the 302. All the suspension should come from the V8 car, or be replaced for parts that are supposed to go on a V8 car. Your second post sounds like you replaced the stock I6 suspension parts with the same in new, shoulda gotten V8 parts, unless you did and didn't explain that. The engine compartment wiring harness will be different if I remember correctly, but I believe can be modified by lengthening some wires to work. There's a difference in V8 motor mounts for the '66 cars, early '66 cars had cast iron mounts (which are weaker in a performance standpoint, but fine for a warmed over stock motor) while the later ones has steel mounts (which are stronger but raise the engine by about 1"), so if you don't have mounts for the V8, there's a tidbit. Radiator will have to be changed out for a V8 one. I'm not sure if the driveshafts are the same, I'm guessing the yoke isn't, unless the I6 has a C4 (you never said what tranny).
I'm kinda answering questions that you may or may not know here. Not trying to be rude, but can you tell us what you already know you'll have to do? I'm sure I'm missing a bunch of stuff and to be quite truthful, the I6 to V8 thing has been answered here to death. We've been clamoring for a classic FAQ page forever as I'm not sure the search function works all the time (have you tried searching on StangNet for the conversion?).
1320stang
Founding Member
allcarfan said:
Ain't gonna happen, the I6 rearend is a different animal than the 8" for a V8. It has a removable rear cover like a 7.5 or 8.8 (I think it is a 7.5, but not like a late model 7.5).
WORTH
20+ Year Stangneter
Hack
15 Year Member
Click on classic talk, then check out the technical FAQ stickied at the top.
There's a quite comprehensive list there. It should help.
Good luck, sounds like a fun project!
There's a quite comprehensive list there. It should help.
Good luck, sounds like a fun project!
Thanks 1320 - the donor is crappy in the body department and my build up car only had rust in the top of the gas tank from a leaking trunk seal - i couldn't find any rust anywhere else (my understanding is i got lucky on that mark) It does have a C4 but I found out today that the C4 came in 3 different sizes 
the original had the 157 tooth flywheel - so I thought no problem! ha. I need the 164. i got that, bellhousing, and torque converter no problem....but my $@#% shaft is the 24 spline. it doesn't match up here goes an entire transmission swap - WOO HOO - anyway - i did find out belatedly about the engine brackets - good ol ebay supplied a set and that was all i needed engine and engine compartment wise - I just gotta work through the transmission thing. I really wanted to find a V8 stang ready just to be made to look pretty - but - they are hard to find here, at least not so rusted you can see through them. And for the record - i'm installing a 302 
another reason my hubby thinks I'm nuts. so this weekend will be spent under my stang trying not to drop the tran on my head and polishing my pretty engine while it sits on the engine stand and not in my mustang
It does have a C4 but I found out today that the C4 came in 3 different sizes another reason my hubby thinks I'm nuts. so this weekend will be spent under my stang trying not to drop the tran on my head and polishing my pretty engine while it sits on the engine stand and not in my mustang 1320stang said:
UM...i was told i could use a rear end out of a maverick or falcon if the one I have in my donor car has a problem - is this true and what years are compatible? - my donor car had a tree fall across the trunk and i still need to pull the rear end to make sure its not damaged - The wheels roll fine, but i'm not taking chances and i still don't know how to tell the rear ends apart
1320stang
Founding Member
Widths are what you have to worry about. I believe MustangSteve.com has the comprehensive list of rear end widths and what years of cars they are found in. The one in the donor car should be fine, unless it was a 48" diameter redwood (or a smaller petrified one, ). A '64-'65 Falcon should be the same width as its the same underpinnings as the '65-'66 Stang. I think a Mavrick might be a bit narrower, check Mustang Steve's site out. You haven't said where you're located, you might find someone on here that has an extra 8". I have gotten a '57 Ranchero 9" for my '65 coupe, but I'm saving the 8" for a future front engine dragster project (flathead powered) I have another 8" housing in my '63 Fairlane drag car project and I think a set of axles for it. (I have a big web 9" out of an F-150 for that project)
The difference between a 8" and a 9" is pretty easy, a 9" looks more round from the back (shape, not the backside of it) and the 8" is sorta flattened on the top and bottom (look at the gasket shape in the Summit catalog gear section). A 8" you can get to all the pumkin nuts with a socket and extension on a ratchet. The 9" you can't get to the bottom center 2 without a wrench or maybe a wiggle joint socket.
). A '64-'65 Falcon should be the same width as its the same underpinnings as the '65-'66 Stang. I think a Mavrick might be a bit narrower, check Mustang Steve's site out. You haven't said where you're located, you might find someone on here that has an extra 8". I have gotten a '57 Ranchero 9" for my '65 coupe, but I'm saving the 8" for a future front engine dragster project (flathead powered) I have another 8" housing in my '63 Fairlane drag car project and I think a set of axles for it. (I have a big web 9" out of an F-150 for that project)The difference between a 8" and a 9" is pretty easy, a 9" looks more round from the back (shape, not the backside of it) and the 8" is sorta flattened on the top and bottom (look at the gasket shape in the Summit catalog gear section). A 8" you can get to all the pumkin nuts with a socket and extension on a ratchet. The 9" you can't get to the bottom center 2 without a wrench or maybe a wiggle joint socket.
