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Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

  • Thread starter Thread starter a91what
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2015
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jrichker

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#3,141
  • Oct 9, 2018
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a91what said:
I did try to put a turn or 2 on the adjuster when i got to work, the cable is tight. tighter than i think it should be.
Click to expand...
There is a fair amount of preload on the clutch cable. Tighten it up and as long as 2nd gear upshift gets good rubber, you are OK. That works OK with a Tremec 3350, but maybe not so good with a T5.
OR spare the fragile T5 and try this trick...
If the clutch slips when you put it in 5th gear and floor it, then the cable is too tight
 
Last edited: Oct 9, 2018

RaggedGT

Been here over a DECADE and still no CT
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#3,142
  • Oct 9, 2018
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a91what said:
you buyin? at this point i would put a stock aod in just so i can drive the car....
Click to expand...
Sadly I’ve spent all my transmission funds for the year on an aode.. I know a Hawaiian guy currently parting out some foxes though
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3,143
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  • #3,143
And I dumped that trans for 50 bucks, I would have given that to you too.
 

a91what

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#3,144
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Ok today after it was hot I could not get it into 1st... revved engine till it hit the limiter and the clutch pushed in farther... and car went right into gear.....

What's that mean?
 

Sparky714

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#3,145
  • Oct 9, 2018
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Does the transmission still have the aluminum bearing retainer? Throw out bearing may be binding up on the retainer?
 
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a91what

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Using steel retainer
 

jrichker

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Something is moving around on the clutch linkage....

Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.


Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.
 

90sickfox

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#3,148
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With my truck I have to rev the engine up and on its way back down it'll drop in gear.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#3,149
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Reach under there and try to move the clutch lever up and down, vertically, you may have dislodged it from the ball at the other end.
 

a91what

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Hmm... even with a different clutch in there I remember it being hard to shift but nothing like this....

I may step back and punt, put the car up for a while until I can find a pivot ball, clutch fork and buy a new clutch.... also swap in a trans while I'm at it....

I'm never gonna drive this thing.
 
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a91what

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Well gents if I am going to do this I need help picking a clutch. I have a zoom replacement in there now and dont have alot of money to burn. I want something that will work correctly and quality. This is getting old fast.
 

67coupe

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#3,152
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Where does the clutch engage when releasing? Close to the floor, mid way, or toward the top?
 

Sparky714

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#3,153
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I put a Spec stage 2 in mine last winter along with a brand new z spec T5. Broke it in as recommended and it works great. I don't have experience with any other brands though, so just my personal experience. I believe our cars are at similar power levels.
 

a91what

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Clutch feels like it releases at the top of the pedal and engages near the middle. Until the car warms up of course.
 

90sickfox

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With the stock t5 I wouldn't put too hard of a clutch in front of it. An on off switch will be hard on internals. A little slip can go a long way on a weak transmission. Stage 2 is probably the firmest I'd go. Spec is a good brand...I've had good luck with them.
 

a91what

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#3,156
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I picked these.
ARP 150-2202 - ARP High Performance Series Pressure Plate Bolt Kits
Summit Racing SUM-700140 - Summit Racing® Clutch Forks
McLeod Racing 75105 - McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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#3,157
  • Oct 10, 2018
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I like their twin disc. I love every car ive installed one in. It's expensive.... but jeeesh it feels good and light on the knee.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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#3,158
  • Oct 11, 2018
  • #3,158
90sickfox said:
I like their twin disc. I love every car ive installed one in. It's expensive.... but jeeesh it feels good and light on the knee.
Click to expand...
I had the same one in the Red car..the pedal felt like the clutch in a Honda Civic.
 
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a91what

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I like a heavy clutch myself....
 
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67coupe

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#3,160
  • Oct 12, 2018
  • #3,160
a91what said:
Clutch feels like it releases at the top of the pedal and engages near the middle. Until the car warms up of course.
Click to expand...
Had a clutch that wouldn’t keep its adjustment. Keep acting like that cable was getting longer (release point kept moving toward floor). Turns out the pivot ball was loose and backing out of the bell housing. Probably not your issue, but I’d take a look since you’re pulling it apart.
 
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