Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 9, 2020

If you aren't cleaning the inside of that tubing before you weld it, its the grease inside from the mandrel bending process thats fouling the welds. I always weld aluminized mild steel w/o issues, but the grease will fck you everytime.

2Blue2 · Oct 9, 2020

Can't wait for this to run

a91what · Oct 11, 2020

Keep in mind I still have to clean all the welds up and seal the pinholes. I am trying to find a nice balance of fitment and flow.

Using the 2" from the turbo to the first v band gave me alot of needed clearance.

a91what · Oct 11, 2020

Didnt really get much done today, was my anniversary this weekend so did what I could.

Fitment went well, vband did not give me too much trouble.

The coldside does hang a bit low, it hugs the body as tightly as it can, I dont think it will be a ride height issue.

You can see the header and cat are actually lower than the charge tube. I plan to weld a 4' strip of 1/4 angle along the bottom of the charge tube in this area just in case...

The tube will turn under the kmember and both the charge tubes will merge into a 3" then I will transition into the 4" tube that looks good in the engine bay. This cross tube will also get the angle welded to it, better to dent this than the pan.

Steel1 · Oct 11, 2020

Now there's some outside the box thinking !
Can't wait to see this build completed , hopefully you can post a few vids when done.

KZGUNS · Oct 11, 2020

Well done!

a91what · Oct 14, 2020

I hope to eventually make more progress.. I feel like I never have enough time in the day to get anything done.
I plan on doing a leak test on the entire system piece by piece... then once its all installed.

I need some flexibility on the hot side, do you think a SS flex pipe will hold up? the triple layer mesh type

KZGUNS · Oct 14, 2020

They are used in the oem all the time so I would guess if you buy a quality piece it would fine. Where are gonna put it? Up near the header?

a91what · Oct 14, 2020

KZGUNS said:
They are used in the oem all the time so I would guess if you buy a quality piece it would fine. Where are gonna put it? Up near the header?

between the xpipe and the tailpipes.. the tailpipes are hard mounted at the turbo and are on hangers after they come over the axle. I plan on doing hangers for the hotside at the transmission as well. I just dont want the headers flexing or the turbos

KZGUNS · Oct 14, 2020

I think you’ll good putting them there. Just buy good ones. I can see how cheap ones might fail.

KZGUNS · Oct 14, 2020

Looks like vibrant sells some at summit. There’s also bellows style, not sure how much flexibility they offer though

a91what · Oct 14, 2020

I am going to try some of the 3 layer stainless ones, they are jones I believe

Steel1 · Oct 14, 2020

Yeah quite common in oem exhaust applications , should work for you.
If possible I would make it removable , it's quite common for those to develop a leak over time.

a91what · Oct 18, 2020

Some more progress made, I have the cold side all the way up under the k member and I am ready to begin fabricating the merge pipe. I am considering different ways to mount the cold side under the kmember, the simplest solution to me is welding it to the washers for the steering rack. I may even weld some tabs to the cold side and do a skid plate.... we will see.

90sickfox · Oct 18, 2020

They sell u bolt clamps in many different sizes at tractor supply stores and HD and Lowes. You could weld them to exhaust and bolt them to the k member with the threads pointing up. Rubber hose to insulate the top and bottom of the u bolt.

I would think a skid plate would also help air flow if it went from bottom of core support above air deflector to somewhere below rear subframe bolts. It should cause a vacuum at the rear edge at about the header flange if spaced down. It should help pull air through the radiator and out the back. High pressure in front of radiator and low pressure at the furthest edge back. Stops a bunch of air turbulence through and around engine compartment. Might be able to squeeze in a couple louvers ahead of headers as scoops and a door to access the drain plugs and filter.

I'm sleepy...almost like drinking. Smh....its been a long weekend.

a91what · Oct 19, 2020

90sickfox said:
They sell u bolt clamps in many different sizes at tractor supply stores and HD and Lowes. You could weld them to exhaust and bolt them to the k member with the threads pointing up. Rubber hose to insulate the top and bottom of the u bolt.

I would think a skid plate would also help air flow if it went from bottom of core support above air deflector to somewhere below rear subframe bolts. It should cause a vacuum at the rear edge at about the header flange if spaced down. It should help pull air through the radiator and out the back. High pressure in front of radiator and low pressure at the furthest edge back. Stops a bunch of air turbulence through and around engine compartment. Might be able to squeeze in a couple louvers ahead of headers as scoops and a door to access the drain plugs and filter.

I'm sleepy...almost like drinking. Smh....its been a long weekend.

I like this idea, let me get the merge ect. Created first and see how much room I have left. I am using the ranger air dam under the core support, it provides a huge air pressure drop. If done correctly the engine bay should also remain cooler.

rdharper02 · Oct 19, 2020

I followed a bit with the supercharger, but this has become a very cool project. Well done Sir.

a91what · Nov 2, 2020

This is the reason I have not been making any progress recently.... it started out as a simple fixup job, then I realized the subfloor was damaged.. then gutted the drywall.. then the ceiling.. and the list goes on. I am no carpenter but I did a pretty ok job. The ceiling even has acoustical tiles, should dampen noise. the worst part is that none of the original plumbing worked out, the room is in a completely different configuration.

I tried to reuse the original door casings..... I realize now that I may have been a tad bit rough with them when I did the demo

KZGUNS · Nov 2, 2020

looks great! I always tell people to just get the whole door and frame. seems like everytime theres a struggle to get the door to work in the old frame when popping in the the whole thing takes no time at all if you have shims and some nails or screws.

a91what · Nov 2, 2020

KZGUNS said:
looks great! I always tell people to just get the whole door and frame. seems like everytime theres a struggle to get the door to work in the old frame when popping in the the whole thing takes no time at all if you have shims and some nails or screws.

I will be cutting strips to install the doors, the only thing I hate more than installing a door is having to do it twice

Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

will be trying this sex one when I can find it

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