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Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

  • Thread starter Thread starter a91what
  • Start date Start date May 31, 2015
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    393 4r70w megasquirt ms3 ms3pro turbo watermeth injection
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rdharper02

like kicking myself in the junk
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Did the insert require any trimming? Came out pretty good if it didn't.
 

a91what

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rdharper02 said:
Did the insert require any trimming? Came out pretty good if it didn't.
Click to expand...
No trimming required
 

rdharper02

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Worth every penny then. I just looked at mine and I'm getting a bit of sag.
 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
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I like how the back bumper turned out. Mine has that dang puff up spot that drives me crazy. What product did you go with again ?
 

a91what

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90sickfox said:
I like how the back bumper turned out. Mine has that dang puff up spot that drives me crazy. What product did you go with again ?
Click to expand...
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=184347495798
 
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a91what

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I know I have not been keeping the updates regular for everyone but I have a ton going on right now.

I want to top off the transmission and take the car out for the first trip up the street and back but I have a pretty serious oil pan leak.. I should have known better than to use the cheap-o rubber gasket that came with the oil pan. Its leaking in the rear corner above the starter.
The plan is to use a cradle and drop the K member so that I can remove the oil pan, while its out I will weld in a 10AN bung for the oil return, this will allow me to use the valve cover as a vent again.

If I dont fix it now the underside of the car will be covered in oil... I cant that now can I?
 
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stanglx2002

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Not when you live in FL, so no need for rust prevention coating.
 

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
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a91what said:
I know I have not been keeping the updates regular for everyone but I have a ton going on right now.

I want to top off the transmission and take the car out for the first trip up the street and back but I have a pretty serious oil pan leak.. I should have known better than to use the cheap-o rubber gasket that came with the oil pan. Its leaking in the rear corner above the starter.
The plan is to use a cradle and drop the K member so that I can remove the oil pan, while its out I will weld in a 10AN bung for the oil return, this will allow me to use the valve cover as a vent again.

If I dont fix it now the underside of the car will be covered in oil... I cant that now can I?
Click to expand...
Maybe that will add a degree of rust prevention to the exhaust tubing that you now have a linear mile of running under the car.
 
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a91what

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CarMichael Angelo said:
Maybe that will add a degree of rust prevention to the exhaust tubing that you now have a linear mile of running under the car.
Click to expand...
think of it as an intercooler Mike.. and its aluminum coated so It wont rust for some time
 

rdharper02

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Steve, I have the "across the fender" deal to hold the engine if you need it.
 

Steel1

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rdharper02 said:
Steve, I have the "across the fender" deal to hold the engine if you need it.
Click to expand...
I've used the HF version of that more than once to drop the pan on my 93, comes in handy.
Upper intake off, motor mounts unbolted, jack up the engine as high as it will go, attach HF cross bar,
begin swearing a lot while wrestling the pan out..lol.
 
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a91what

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rdharper02 said:
Steve, I have the "across the fender" deal to hold the engine if you need it.
Click to expand...
Thanks but I have one, hopefully get this done this weekend sometime.. i wanna drive my car.

We also need to setup a time for me to come over and get yours running
 

a91what

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Steel1 said:
I've used the HF version of that more than once to drop the pan on my 93, comes in handy.
Upper intake off, motor mounts unbolted, jack up the engine as high as it will go, attach HF cross bar,
begin swearing a lot while wrestling the pan out..lol.
Click to expand...
I dont want to fight it with the deep pan, I am just going to drop the K member out of the way
 
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rdharper02

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a91what said:
Thanks but I have one, hopefully get this done this weekend sometime.. i wanna drive my car.

We also need to setup a time for me to come over and get yours running
Click to expand...
No worries. I still haven't run my vacuum line yet. But scheduling would probably help...lol. I'll give you a ring tomorrow.
 
Last edited: Jan 14, 2021
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a91what

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Getting close to needing insurance.. did an online Hagarty quote 10k claimed value with unlimited miles [I can even drive it to work]... came back with 580 a year. That's not bad I think?

got the oil pan done and even managed to get the exhaust tips done.. I will get some pics tomorrow, I ended up having to do the brakes on the Mini Cooper again today [I hate that car] oil change on the S2000 and dug up the portion of the culvert that decided to fail. I am whooped
 
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a91what

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Paint has seen better days but I am not concerned with it.
Got the trans filled correctly this morning, I do not seem to be getting a signal from the vss... the way I have the circuit configured it may be as simple as swapping the wires on it. We will see.
 
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90sickfox

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That exhaust is going to mess with a lot of people's minds.
 

a91what

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90sickfox said:
That exhaust is going to mess with a lot of people's minds.
Click to expand...
Lets hope so..

I was meaning to ask you about the vacuum pump setup you are using.. I want to pull a vac on the crankcase without using engine vacuum for ring seal.
I plan on pulling from the driver valve cover with a filter in the passenger side, it will have a catch can on it. I want to pull about 4inhg to promote ring seal.. do you think one of those pumps your using will work for this? if so what would I need? will it survive constantly running?
 

90sickfox

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Those pumps will survive running constant but I wouldn't expect to get 100k out of one ran like that. I don't know the volume of air these pumps move. It takes about 6 seconds to pull my cobra booster to 18in.hg.

I took everything off a Chevy cruze because the check valves and vacuum switch are easy to get to. There's also a relay attached to the harness coming from the vacuum pump. Power, ground, and +12v trigger wire. Trigger runs through vacuum switch. The pump is on a 20amp fuse.
 

a91what

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90sickfox said:
Those pumps will survive running constant but I wouldn't expect to get 100k out of one ran like that. I don't know the volume of air these pumps move. It takes about 6 seconds to pull my cobra booster to 18in.hg.

I took everything off a Chevy cruze because the check valves and vacuum switch are easy to get to. There's also a relay attached to the harness coming from the vacuum pump. Power, ground, and +12v trigger wire. Trigger runs through vacuum switch. The pump is on a 20amp fuse.
Click to expand...
Do you think I could setup a check valve system so that when the engine is under vacuum the pump is off and once it looses vacuum [boost or near boost] the vac pump picks up and the check valve pulls closed so the pump is then evac-ing the crank case.

hmm.. I just dont want the vac pump to affect the signal in the intake manifold.

I suppose I could try and mount a belt driven vacuum pump but that seems like a real PITA
 
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