Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

I saw your voltage drop figures and that is quite a drop. Are you using a separate ground cable from the battery to the engine block?

a91what said:

No........ both batteries are in the trunk. Should I run a ground from the battery up to the starter?

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Yes...

You need to reduce the voltage drop to a bare minimum

Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.

One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.

One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.




The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..

Picture courtesy timewarped1972

Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.


Voltage drop testing of connections and grounds.

Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across a connection or wire. Adding length to the test leads may be required, and does not affect the accuracy of the test. Use 16-18 gauge wire for the test leads if you have to lengthen them.

Voltage drop increases with the increase of current in a circuit and it also increases with heat. Put a maximum current load on a bad wire or connection and it gets hot and drops more voltage across the wire or connection. As it heats up, resistance increases which makes more heat. Round and round you go in a vicious circle until something catches fire or fails.

Voltage drop testing must be done while the usual load is on the circuit. If it is a starter, it has to be tested while cranking the starter. If it is lights, A/C or fan, they must be turned on high while testing. Fail to do this and you will not get accurate results

1.) Most grounds use the negative battery post as their starting point. Keep this in mind when checking grounds.
2.) The voltage will be small if the ground is good: less voltage drop = better connection.
3.) Be sure that the power to the circuit is on, and the circuit is being used in its normal manner. For instance, if it is a light circuit, the lights on that circuit should be powered on.
4.) To measure grounds, place one DVM lead on the battery negative post and the other on the wire or connector that goes to ground.
5.) 5.) Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections (sensors are low voltage devices and small drops can have a large effect on the devices dependent on sensor accuracy)
0.0V Connections
A voltage drop lower that spec is always acceptable.
6.)
See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

My link takes its limbo skills to the next level

a91what said:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-3851/overview/

what do you think the difference in flow is between this and the low profile????

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Found this. I would be curious to see what the difference in bend angle would do to velocity.

a91what said:

Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??

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Vacuum is the same anyplace in the manifold after the TB, A vacuum tree or log is that the stock system uses, so you should be OK. The only thing I would not share a vacuum source with is the fuel pressure regulator. Even the stock vacuum plumbing has a separate vacuum source for the fuel pressure regulator

a91what said:

Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??

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That is a pretty piece. I intend to get that for my red car when I finally get to that stage. Looks bunches better than that plastic thing, huh?