Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

stykthyn · Oct 2, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Dont you know you're not supposed to try and sell cars in "non-classified" sections.

Uhhh....1700.00

We're just conversating. If you still have it around Christmas we'll be talking selling.

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Just ordered the quarter window repair kit with new motors from late model restoration a new quarter window weatherstripping seeing as the window misalignment has torn the ones that are on there now. Once I get these parts in I'll pull out the stereo so I can get in there. Once I get the quarter Windows adjusted then I'll start on getting the doors and windows adjusted I'll probably need to go down and buy an extra bag of expletives

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 3, 2016

a91what said:
Just ordered the quarter window repair kit with new motors from late model restoration a new quarter window weatherstripping seeing as the window misalignment has torn the ones that are on there now. Once I get these parts in I'll pull out the stereo so I can get in there. Once I get the quarter Windows adjusted then I'll start on getting the doors and windows adjusted I'll probably need to go down and buy an extra bag of expletives

And here I was looking for a way of repaying you.

You don't need to buy anything when it comes to "expletives". I have every single one of those just sitting in my garage that I'll let you have for free.

Yeah, you read it right... FREE.

I thought I'd need them a long time ago so I bought them, and they've just been sitting in a drawer, unused for years.
(They just don't convey enough rage for me, so I've had to "mod" my old set.)

Now keep in mind, this is the standard SAE version, and contains every single 4 letter variant typically used,...with the usual "mother, and God" modifiers added to the set. Additionally, I decided to go with the deluxe set when I bought them, and added the optional "son of a" and "you dirty, stikin" prefixes and "sucker" suffix to round out the set.

So give me your address and this brand new shiny box set will be headed your way.

It's the least I could do.

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Okay guys I've been on a covert ops mission trying to keep this a secret today was Dyno day.! Before I give you the printed sheet I want everyone to guess the horsepower and torque numbers I'll even give you a video of the first pull.

Unfortunately I was only able to make two pull today. The retaining clip on the snout of the supercharger decided it wanted to disappear along with the groove that holds it in and the seal walked out the front no biggie that unfortunately can't be fixed I'm not sure what to do about that except find a new M90 snout. And on the second pull the power steering pump decided it wanted to puke fluid out the top all over the engine bay all cuz the kid making the full decided to let the engine whine down instead of just pushing in the clutch. Oh well.
Something else to keep in mind according to Eaton's website this supercharger has a parasitic loss of almost 65 horsepower at the RPM that I'm spinning it at.

View: https://youtu.be/9aOvpsJ9gbY

Davedacarpainter · Oct 3, 2016

a91what said:
Okay guys I've been on a covert ops mission trying to keep this a secret today was Dyno day.! Before I give you the printed sheet I want everyone to guess the horsepower and torque numbers I'll even give you a video of the first pull.

Unfortunately I was only able to make two pull today. The retaining clip on the snout of the supercharger decided it wanted to disappear along with the groove that holds it in and the seal walked out the front no biggie that unfortunately can't be fixed I'm not sure what to do about that except find a new M90 snout. And on the second pull the power steering pump decided it wanted to puke fluid out the top all over the engine bay all cuz the kid making the full decided to let the engine whine down instead of just pushing in the clutch. Oh well.
Something else to keep in mind according to Eaton's website this supercharger has a parasitic loss of almost 65 horsepower at the RPM that I'm spinning it at.
View: https://youtu.be/9aOvpsJ9gbY

Ok Steve, I'm guessing it has at least 115 at the tires.

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 3, 2016

Davedacarpainter said:
Ok Steve, I'm guessing it has at least 115 at the tires.

I'm gonna say 116.

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Let me say first that I'm kinda disappointed..... second pull is the red line after adding 1.5* of timing, lost power that's when hot the fan..lol I have a feeling less timing will net gains.
Blue line 24*
Red line 26*
HP=282
TQ=386

CarMichael Angelo · Oct 3, 2016

a91what said:
Let me say first that I'm kinda disappointed..... second pull is the red line after adding 1.5* of timing, lost power that's when **** hot the fan..lol I have a feeling less timing will net gains.
Blue line 24*
Red line 26*
HP=282
TQ=386

I know that you've said it elsewhere,....what's the boost number?

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Car made 9.4PSI at 2500rpm 24* timing
by redline was around 6.3 at 28* timing

here is a difficult to read pic of the datalog. and a copy of the log for your viewing pleasure. I fixed the fueling in the beginning of the pull it was everywhere [yellow line around 2500 rpm... the AFR spikes weren't even noticeable during the pull...]
the later time stamped datalog was the second pull with more timing added.

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

I also don't see how I'm using 70% duty cycle on a set of 50lb injectors and only making 280HP.........
@hoopty5.0 @Boosted92LX @A5literMan @Gearbanger 101 @Noobz347

Noobz347 · Oct 3, 2016

I might guess that your fuel pump is not up to the task of providing the fuel volume necessary, is by-passing internally, or that your regulator is bad.

Another guess might be cavitation in the fuel lines.

What components make up your fuel system?

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Stock lines and rails. 50lb injectors, Kirban FPR, Walboro GSS255lph HP
base fp set to 40lbs.

Boosted92LX · Oct 3, 2016

a91what said:
I also don't see how I'm using 70% duty cycle on a set of 50lb injectors and only making 280HP.........
@hoopty5.0 @Boosted92LX @A5literMan @Gearbanger 101 @Noobz347

1- they might not actually be 50 lbers....?

2- they are secondhand and plugged up, not flowing what they are supposed to....?

I had a problem with 2.

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

They were new from FRPP...
the duty cycle of the injectors is nice and linear, it follows the rpm line. if I were having a fuel pump issue wouldn't I see a place in the graph where the duty cycle strays from the norm?? I don't see anything abnormal in the datalog.

Noobz347 · Oct 3, 2016

a91what said:
Stock lines and rails. 50lb injectors, Kirban FPR, Walboro GSS255lph HP
base fp set to 40lbs.

Try turning up the pressure say... 5 psi. If the duty cycle falls then that generally indicates that you're getting adequate volume (there's and intersection between volume and pressure for any pump. You want to be on the left side of that intersection). If the duty cycle increases, then it's not.

This graph:

leads me to believe that you have an electrical or pump issue.

From the left side of the graph: Plenty of voltage/current saturation. As RPM rises and puts more demand on the electrical system, things begin to get dodgy.

Granted that this is just an AFR graph but checking voltage at the pump during a pull might reveal the gremlin. Pulling voltage readings from the coil might be a good idea too.

The pump you have installed should be adequate for your purpose (discounting malfunction of course).

Here's an old(er) article:
http://anyflip.com/upza/hksk/basic

It is not the article I set out to find for you but it still explains the dilemma that I'm referring to.

Specifically:

Some chit that Noobz dug up said:
Don’t be concerned about the slight difference in flow between the Shelby 233L and a Ford GT 241L pump(s). Instead, worry more about
VOLTAGE FLUCTUATIONS that can starve your engine of fuel by 26% and more. Note the huge flow variations that result from a 1-2V
variation from the OEM “rated” 13.0V (see comparison) - up to -26% (342L vs 404L). The unique built in voltage stabilizer on the BOOST-
A-PUMP™ eliminates dangerous voltage/fuel pressure and flow fluctuations. it will maintain correct voltage within .1% as low as 11 volts,
a full 26% flow reduction. Normal voltage is 13.0 V. If your battery is low or the alternator dies, your fuel system has protection from a 26%
“lean out.”

a91what · Oct 3, 2016

Noobz347 said:
Try turning up the pressure say... 5 psi. If the duty cycle falls then that generally indicates that you're getting adequate volume (there's and intersection between volume and pressure for any pump. You want to be on the left side of that intersection). If the duty cycle increases, then it's not.

This graph:

leads me to believe that you have an electrical or pump issue.

From the left side of the graph: Plenty of voltage/current saturation. As RPM rises and puts more demand on the electrical system, things begin to get dodgy.

Granted that this is just an AFR graph but checking voltage at the pump during a pull might reveal the gremlin. Pulling voltage readings from the coil might be a good idea too.

The pump you have installed should be adequate for your purpose (discounting malfunction of course).

Here's an old(er) article:
http://anyflip.com/upza/hksk/basic

It is not the article I set out to find for you but it still explains the dilemma that I'm referring to.

Specifically:

You may be on to something there.... it is all stock wiring feeding the fuel pump... Batteries are in the trunk any reason why I cant use the factory relay feed wiring to trigger another relay in the trunk.?? this way its a 16" trip fro the battery to the pump.

Noobz347 · Oct 4, 2016

a91what said:
You may be on to something there.... it is all stock wiring feeding the fuel pump... Batteries are in the trunk any reason why I cant use the factory relay feed wiring to trigger another relay in the trunk.?? this way its a 16" trip fro the battery to the pump.

I don't see why not. Should be just as easy to trouble-shoot since you know it's there. lol

In my mind, I would put a boost-a-pump --and-- a boost-a-spark (or equivalent) on every Fox body out there. Coil saturation is affected in the same way as the fuel pump system.

krazedstang · Oct 4, 2016

Noobz347 said:
I don't see why not. Should be just as easy to trouble-shoot since you know it's there. lol

In my mind, I would put a boost-a-pump --and-- a boost-a-spark (or equivalent) on every Fox body out there. Coil saturation is affected in the same way as the fuel pump system.

So you're saying I should keep the 6AL I have sitting on a shelf and actually install it?

a91what · Oct 4, 2016

Those are not in the cards right now.... lol I am at a lack of funds this was a budget build 2k limit.... soo maybe I should be happy with it... 380tq and 280hp at the rear tires isn't terrible... I think....
Add the 50hp parasitic loss and 15% drive train loss..... that's 375ish at the crank.

The area under the curve (torque) is huge from 2k to 4.5k...

I believe the cam is the issue. Let's recap the build.
-306ci
-Gt40 irons home ported
-Parker funnel Web drilled for injectors with an elbow 65mmtb
-E303 cam (110 lobe separation... ie.. overlap)
-fuel system from above
-large fmic
-m90sc over spun by 35% 9psi at 2.5k 6psi by 6k -homemade inlet/outlet for the build with 75mm tb and a mini cooper bypass valve.
-blue oval ceramic coated shorty headers, x pipe, flowmasters, 2.5 inch.

hoopty5.0 · Oct 4, 2016

All things considered, I'd be ok with that.

Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

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