I know! But I will simply keep this little blower on here, its a street car and with the torque it makes the thing is a real handful. It's fun to drive and anywhere I go it's a conversation starter people always assume I did a mod swap. I'm gonna just make the best of it.If you're going to turbo it, I wouldn't even bother with keeping the M90. A 70mm will make enough steam to split your block with little effort
6-7psiMay I ask what kind of boost are you getting?
Here's the problem with "non slip" pulleys. They work well and do what they were intended to do.....but only to a point. If your belt is just on the edge of slipping with a standard pulley, the non slip will help....but if its slipping badly with your current pulley diameter, its still likely to slip with the "non slip" style pulley. There problem there is, the non slip pulleys tend to act like meat grinders when they do slip and will make short work of your accessory belt in a hurry. In your case, that's a bad thing, because you're running a single belt system. I would seriously consider just bumping up the blower pulley diameter for now to reduce the slippage....and if you don't think it's spinning fast enough, save your pennies for an overdrive crank pulley. Innovators West, or ASP may make something to fit your needs. The problem with this, is that you may run interference with your water pump pulley. I believe the Cobra water pump pulley may be a smaller diamter, which will give you a little more room to grow on a crank pulley....or you could forgo a water pump pulley altogether and run an electric water pump. Anyway you slice it though, it's going to cost you money.Anyone have a line on the nonslip pulleys? Or is there a way I can mod my pulley myself? I have been trying to find the slash cut kind but can't seem to find one....
Belt dressing would likely help as well.... any other product I might try?
I was looking to slash cut the 2.2 inch pulley rather than the 1.9 I think the 1.9 is just too small 9 pounds of boost is great but I'd rather have a nice even boost curve. There may be a glimmer of hope for adding one of the Vortec style pulley I actually have the pulleys installed backwards right now that way there closer to the supercharger case for pulley alignment I believe my flipping the pulley around and using an 8 rib pulley it may almost perfectly line up it may just be a matter of shimming the bracket I'll take some measurements later today if the Hurricanes not right on top of me and let you know. I believe I have a 2.6 inch 8 rib pulley sitting on the shelf match that with an 8-inch Vortech lower and I might just be in businessHere's the problem with "non slip" pulleys. They work well and do what they were intended to do.....but only to a point. If your belt is just on the edge of slipping with a standard pulley, the non slip will help....but if its slipping badly with your current pulley diameter, its still likely to slip with the "non slip" style pulley. There problem there is, the non slip pulleys tend to act like meat grinders when they do slip and will make short work of your accessory belt in a hurry. In your case, that's a bad thing, because you're running a single belt system. I would seriously consider just bumping up the blower pulley diameter for now to reduce the slippage....and if you don't think it's spinning fast enough, save your pennies for an overdrive crank pulley. Innovators West, or ASP may make something to fit your needs. The problem with this, is that you may run interference with your water pump pulley. I believe the Cobra water pump pulley may be a smaller diamter, which will give you a little more room to grow on a crank pulley....or you could forgo a water pump pulley altogether and run an electric water pump. Anyway you slice it though, it's going to cost you money.
I personally think a major reason an M90 kit for the 5.0L OHV engine didn't take off wasn't so much performance limitations, but packaging. It's just so much work trying to get than little sucker to spin the way you want it to. An MPx case and inlet when spun hard enough will easily keep up with any of the horsepower capabilities of the twin screw offerings for this engine......but spinning them as fast as they need to be spun can't be done without an independent pulley system.
My only other suggestion to help control belt slip would be to convert your entire set up to an 8-rib pulley design, from the current 6-rib. This will add some traction to the pulley as well as open you up to some of the pulley offerings the Supercoupe guys have. If your blower set up was independent, you could even consider a cogged pulley system....but they've got to be darn near perfect alignment was and completely flex free to work on the street.
Are you planning on the 8-rib crank pulley, or the 8-inch crank pulley?I believe I have a 2.6 inch 8 rib pulley sitting on the shelf match that with an 8-inch Vortech lower and I might just be in business
I'm also on the path to get better economy out of this thing as well. My system has a flaw that I would like to address mainly under Cruise conditions when you tip into the throttle the bypass valve closes in the car comes up on Boost until everything equalizes. As little as a 2% change and TPS value can cause this to happen. So I'm thinking that I can remedy this with a solenoid valve and a check valve.
The check valve will go in-line between manifold and bypass so that once it's in vacuum it stays there. Then the solenoid will be T'd into the system after the check valve, this will allow the vacuum to be purged to atmosphere (closing the bypass and allowing boost to build)...
What I'm wondering is, can anyone see any flaw in the idea.
@jrichker -I'm thinking a small check valve for the smog pump system and a tad or tab valve Any suggestions?
I'm not sure what you're saying here? Why would you think the TPS has anything to do with your bypass valve? The bypass valve is vacuum operated and has nothing at all to do with the throttle position? You could, if you were ginger enough with the accelerator pedal bring the engine all the way up to wide open throttle, without making any boost at all.I'm also on the path to get better economy out of this thing as well. My system has a flaw that I would like to address mainly under Cruise conditions when you tip into the throttle the bypass valve closes in the car comes up on Boost until everything equalizes. As little as a 2% change and TPS value can cause this to happen. So I'm thinking that I can remedy this with a solenoid valve and a check valve.
The check valve will go in-line between manifold and bypass so that once it's in vacuum it stays there. Then the solenoid will be T'd into the system after the check valve, this will allow the vacuum to be purged to atmosphere (closing the bypass and allowing boost to build)...
What I'm wondering is, can anyone see any flaw in the idea.
@jrichker -I'm thinking a small check valve for the smog pump system and a tad or tab valve Any suggestions?
Maybe.... that would require me build a custom manifold and swap to EDIS.... there is no way it would fit in the current SC location....I've got a friend that has a m112 off of a lightening. I gave it to him so he can't charge me too much.
Nothing. Even an m112 off a Jag would work. But they all cost money lots of moneyPrice tag aside, what's keeping you from moving up to a tvs or similarly larger blower?
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