I have a use set of explorer 19lb injectors. Rebuild kit only has two orings, plastic cap (for the lower side) and filter. Where can I buy the small oring that goes on the top of the injector? Is it not needed? See picture which shows the red circle - one injector doesn't have the small black oring and the other does. Thanks for any thoughts.
Fuel Explorer 19lb injector rebuild
- Thread starter diesel farmer
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I'd try here. https://fuelinjectorconnection.com/...ctor-kits-1?Year/1990/Make/Ford/Model/Mustang
If you're not sure what you need send them that picture and they'll hook you up. I don't know what year explorer you have. If you click on the "Change vehicle" tab from that link you might see what you need.
If you're not sure what you need send them that picture and they'll hook you up. I don't know what year explorer you have. If you click on the "Change vehicle" tab from that link you might see what you need.
I don't know if you need them as they would be inside the fuel rail and I am not sure what they would seal against. Maybe the explorer fuel rail is different than the Mustang.
I will have to check some of the explorer injectors I have in the garage.
The explorer o-rings are the same. These are somewhat standard.
If we could determine what -dash number these o-rings are you could likely buy a bag of Viton o-rings for $5 and have a hundred or so.
I’ll need to check my Parker o-ring book on chemical compatibility and see if I can find a size.
If we could determine what -dash number these o-rings are you could likely buy a bag of Viton o-rings for $5 and have a hundred or so.
I’ll need to check my Parker o-ring book on chemical compatibility and see if I can find a size.
See pic. Mustang fuel rail on left/top; Explorer rail on right/bottom. Explorer rail is deeper for sure. I am going to use the Mustang fuel rail.
Also have another set of 19lb injectors (that came out of an Explorer) with Ford Part # XS2E-A5B that have the same small o-ring at the top of the injector.
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Yes, I think you are correct. The Amazon link you sent does not have the top small o-ring unless I am missing something. Thanks.
The first image indicates that they're both 14mm and the same size as the one on the bottom.
I can't account for the size variation on the one you're looking at however, if you have an o-ring that is equal in size or smaller than the shoulder at the top of the injector and fits inside of the bell, then it should work perfectly.
Are you thinking that the 0-203 o-ring (from your pic) should seal into the fuel rail and therefore I don’t need the smaller o-ring located above the 0-203 o-ring?
Test it of course, but yeah... If that O-ring stays on the shoulder when pressed into the bell then it should seal.
I will install the injectors and rail into the manifold, apply fuel pressure from the tank/pump and report if I see any leaks - hopefully that will tell if they are sealing properly.
Nitrile (Buna-N) and Viton show compatibility with Gasoline.
Does appear to be a -203 o-ring. Only unknown is hardness. 70 and 90 seem to be common but I don't have anything to measure this particular O-ring but given the use i'd probably lean 90
Seems like you can get a bag of 100 for $5 plus shipping.
www.mcmaster.com
Not sure which one I can recommend here without testing myself. Given that these are fuel systems, the risk is high. But given that, I can't help but think most of these injector rebuild kits are probably using the cheapest O-rings possible.
Does appear to be a -203 o-ring. Only unknown is hardness. 70 and 90 seem to be common but I don't have anything to measure this particular O-ring but given the use i'd probably lean 90
Seems like you can get a bag of 100 for $5 plus shipping.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Not sure which one I can recommend here without testing myself. Given that these are fuel systems, the risk is high. But given that, I can't help but think most of these injector rebuild kits are probably using the cheapest O-rings possible.
See pics with the measurements. Does this help?Nitrile (Buna-N) and Viton show compatibility with Gasoline.
Does appear to be a -203 o-ring. Only unknown is hardness. 70 and 90 seem to be common but I don't have anything to measure this particular O-ring but given the use i'd probably lean 90
Seems like you can get a bag of 100 for $5 plus shipping.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Not sure which one I can recommend here without testing myself. Given that these are fuel systems, the risk is high. But given that, I can't help but think most of these injector rebuild kits are probably using the cheapest O-rings possible.
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I would not use the Buna-N due to the additives and ethanol that is blended into the gasoline. I am in the refined petroleum industry and we do not use Buna-N at all anymore and have moved to Viton derivatives. I am having to replace about $1500 worth of fuel lines and fittings on my T-Brid due to it being the older stainless steel braided rubber lines. Moving that car over to hoses with a teflon liner.
Update - installed the regular o-ring kit on the explorer injectors without the small o-ring at the very top where the injector enters the fuel rail. Put power to the fuel pump and had ~42 psi at the fuel rail (with adjustment to the regulator) and don't see any sign of gas leaks at the fuel rail. I guess this confirms that I don't need the small o-ring installed on the injectors.
However, should the fuel pressure drop off quickly after the power to the fuel pump is shut off? I am running a CRT-P74028 fuel pump from Summit mounted outside of the tank. The fuel pressure gauge is mounted on the schrader value by the regulator and the pressure bleeds off to roughly 5 psi within seconds of shutting off the pump. The vacuum line to the regulator is not hooked up. Do I have some bad injectors maybe? Thanks.
However, should the fuel pressure drop off quickly after the power to the fuel pump is shut off? I am running a CRT-P74028 fuel pump from Summit mounted outside of the tank. The fuel pressure gauge is mounted on the schrader value by the regulator and the pressure bleeds off to roughly 5 psi within seconds of shutting off the pump. The vacuum line to the regulator is not hooked up. Do I have some bad injectors maybe? Thanks.
Could be a leak somewhere or could be the regulator allowing fuel to return below the preset pressure.
What happens when you turn the ignition switch to the [run] position without going to start? Does it build full pressure?
What happens when you turn the ignition switch to the [run] position without going to start? Does it build full pressure?
I will have to report back on that once I get the wiring fully installed. I just ran power directly to the pump with a battery to see if there was a leak at the fuel rail. Should have the ignition operational in a week or two.
Something else you can try is to carefully pinch off the return line and see if you get the same drop to 5 psi when the power is cut.
Be careful doing this by applying power directly tho...
Be careful doing this by applying power directly tho...
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