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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
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Factory gauges

  • Thread starter Thread starter Z06killinSBF
  • Start date Start date Dec 11, 2009

Z06killinSBF

Member
Apr 25, 2005
457
1
19
McKinney, TX
Dec 11, 2009
#1
  • Dec 11, 2009
  • #1
I want to make my factory oil, amp, and temp gauges to work. Can I use generic sending units or do I need specific ones? I found the ones on California Mustang for about $30 but I don't know if some ones off a 5.0 would work. Also, what does it take to make the amp gauge work? Thanks
 

JonK

Member
Jun 6, 2007
276
0
16
Nashville (Smyrna), TN
Dec 11, 2009
#2
  • Dec 11, 2009
  • #2
I'm pretty sure they're set to read from the original design sensor which may be a different ohm than the 5.0 gauges. You can get replacement sensors (water, oil) from your local parts store for your car (O'Reilly's gets mine next day in Standard brand for me). If none of your gauges are working I might suspect your instrument cluster VR on the back of the cluster. You could check the wire going to the gauges with a meter to see if a signal is being sent to them at the VR and if any signal is coming out of the VR.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=GR508+01
Jon
 

Z06killinSBF

Member
Apr 25, 2005
457
1
19
McKinney, TX
Dec 11, 2009
#3
  • Dec 11, 2009
  • #3
Well, I know the guages arent hooked up....
 

JonK

Member
Jun 6, 2007
276
0
16
Nashville (Smyrna), TN
Dec 11, 2009
#4
  • Dec 11, 2009
  • #4
Ok, you lost me, so you have some aftermarket gauges hooked up and the stokers disconnected? Need more info. on your setup. What are the aftermarket ones - electrical or mechanical water, oil and volt or amp? I think you're going to need to run dual sending units to run both I'm guessing.
Jon
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
Dec 12, 2009
#5
  • Dec 12, 2009
  • #5
If you want the stock gauges to work, then get the stock replacement sending units from a Mustang shop. If you have a other than stock intake, you may need the other size temp sending unit. There are 2 common sizes.

As for the instrument cluster voltage regulator, get an electronic one or you can also make your own. The replacement ones are usually junk.
 
2

2+2GT

10 Year Member
Apr 25, 2009
3,333
10
79
Southeastern Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2009
#6
  • Dec 12, 2009
  • #6
The 66 gauges (fuel, oil, and temp) are powered by the CVR on the back of the instrument panel, which actually supplies a pulsing 7V IIRC. Each is grounded through appropriate sensors, which vary in resistance to change the indication.

The AMP requires divine intervention, or an hours' work. You must disconnect and clean EVERY CONNECTOR between the gauge and the alternator. Pop them apart, clean the living H out of them with Q-Tips, an old toothbrush, and Brasso. Then grease them lightly with silicone grease, such as Ford's D7AZ-19A331-A.
 

Z06killinSBF

Member
Apr 25, 2005
457
1
19
McKinney, TX
Dec 12, 2009
#7
  • Dec 12, 2009
  • #7
I currently have some under dash mechanical gauges and thought it would be nice to use my factory gauges (which are unhooked at the engine) to work instead.
 

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
1,551
1
37
Dec 12, 2009
#8
  • Dec 12, 2009
  • #8
That would be cool.
 
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