failed emissions today

Any codes?

Things like a clean MAF element, having the car as hot as you can get it within reason (I like to see 200*F or so when I head to the sniffer), having decent O2's, etc can all have an effect.

I cant say how that HCI combo would affect emissions, so that could be a variable.

Good luck.

You can run regular which will give you a hotter/more explosive power stroke. What do you mean your smog pump is hooked up but not connected to anything?
Kevin

make sure your timing is backed down to 10 degrees...I've heard not having the air pump connected to the cats shortens the life of the cats (an may cause them to not work effectively). My car passed with the pump connected to the cats but the recirc off the back of the heads was blocked off. You could also try some of the fuel additives that make it run cleaner to get you thru the test, I read some where on here that a quarter tank of reg gas an a bottle of rubbing alcohol or 2 will help pass.

66mustang93 said:

So I could connect the smog pump to the (now blocked off) h-pipe connection with a piece of rubber hose then remove after passing (or just leave it on)?

Click to expand...

If your going to effectively disable the air pump, you may as well pull it off the motor.
Right now it's just dead weight, and creating drag on the crank.

However, not having it hooked up could be why you failed.

You didn't miss it my much on the HC's.

Pull the codes, maybe you'll get lucky


Things that come to mind for HC's
dirty injectors - injector cleaner for the tank before next test.
Oil change - unburned fuel gets in the crankcase, then flows past pcv into intake.
Of course mechanical problems with the motor, but that doesn't sound like your situation. Especially since you just missed the limit.


Pull codes
oil change
plugs/wires
cap/rotor



enough rambling,
jason

u could always move to a state with no emissions test... one great thing about arkansas if it moves and has tags and insur u can drive it

I'd say get it nice and hot cruising around before, then pull the spout connector and crank the timing up to around 30*, heard it works pretty well

Another vote for running a line to the cats. I would put the check valve in the plumbing (it saves the head of the pump in the event of a backfire). The air is sent to the back of the heads only at start up (which is a time you obviously dont take a car through emissions - it's way up to temp by then). So a straight line would work for your purposes.
The extra air certainly wont hurt, and like Jason said, it might just put you over the top.

Good luck.

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

High NO - high combustion temps - retard timing, check EGR for operation.
High CO - EGR isn't working - fix it.
High HC - fuel mixture too rich - check O2 sensors, smog pump, and cats. Clean MAF element. Do the ethanol thing as suggested.

high HC's could be from running to rich or lean since whenever there is an unbalance of CO and O2, hydrocarbons always go up. the smog pump is what is going to help the cat's get rid of the HC with the extra oxygen mixture. i say connect hte smog pump, change your oil, run it hot and try it again

66mustang93 said:

Do I run a hose from the pump directly to the H-Pipe fitting. I have the metal piece that goes from the H-pipe and stops at the header. I was just going to connect that to the H-pipe and a piece of rubber from the smog pump to that pipe. The old setup had the air bypass valve and air check valves, vacuum lines, etc, all of that is gone.

Click to expand...

How it works:
The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic
converters when it is warm. The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve either dumps air to
the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The second valve (diverter valve) directs it to the heads or the
catalytic converters. The air serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the
catalytic process...

At the very minimum, you need the check valve that goes on the metal pipe that goes to the H pipe and the first
control valve and solenoid. The check valves keeps hot exhaust from damaging the pump & control valves. The first
control valve dumps the smog pump output overboard at WOT and to the heads or cat converters at normal speeds.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/

Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

Fuel pump, alternator, ignition & A/C wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

Computer,. actuator & sensor wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif

Fuse panel layout
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/MustangFuseBox.gif

Vacuum routing
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg

66mustang93 said:

I apologize if I sound dumb, I am new to allot of this. The guy who built my engine disconnected everything but the smog pump. The metal pipe going to the H-pipe does have a round piece connected to it, I'm assuming that is the check valve. I have no idea what the first control valve is or what lines would hook to it. Maybe I should take it to a shop. I was hoping it was as simple as just running a line from the smog pump to the h-pipe.

Click to expand...

One potential benefit of going to an emissions certified shop...
Most states have a max $ amount that they require to get the car to pass. In washington I think it is $300.
If I spend $300 on emissions equipment and the car still does not pass, then I get a 'free pass' until the next scheduled test...

I passed with my car with flying colors, with my h/c/i setup, headers, stock h-pipe with the 4 cats, flows, and tails. Smog pump but is also disonnected, basically just pumping air out of that elbow of the pump. The outlet of the H-pipe is wide open, no piping or anything. My motor has about 12k+ miles on it since I rebuilt it. I also have no egr and piping behind the heads since my heads dont have the provisions for them, so I have no smog equipment or egr at all, do have codes for them obviously, but havent had any probs with the cats not having the air line going to it etc. I do have the emissions test paper, if anybodys interested.