Fan Clutch Problems

Strype · Apr 13, 2007

Hey guys I took my electric fan off and I put my stock fan back on. Here's what happened:

1) Took e-fan off and put stock fan on with new clutch.
-Car surged horribly and died. Surges even when I press the gas.

2) Took stock fan off and cranked car w/o fan.
-Car idled perfectly and ran great

3) Took new fan clutch back and replaced with another new one.
-Car surged horribly and died over and over again. Surges even when I press the gas.

4) Put old OE fan clutch back on car.
-Car surges still and dies. Even surges when I press the gas.

So... Has anyone run into this problem???
-I'm fairly sure the fan is not on backwards. If anyone has a pic of their stock fan in place. Could the fan be warped? Idle never tampered with

ki11er13 · Apr 13, 2007

how come you took your electric fan off?

Boss 351 · Apr 13, 2007

OMG I've never seen anyone with so many cooling issues...

Strype · Apr 13, 2007

Boss 351 said:
OMG I've never seen anyone with so many cooling issues...

It's not just cooling issues... It's me. My life is being punished. I must have had a grandfather who was a Slave owning pron producer who worshipped satan and led his own cult to suicide

Strype · Apr 13, 2007

Could it be that the fan is warped?

Darkwriter77 · Apr 13, 2007

That's just bizarre, dude. Even if the fan clutch was seized, it wouldn't be giving you that kind of a problem.

Only thing I can imagine is that the fan might somehow POSSIBLY be on backwards. That's the only thing left, really, because the only variable is two parts - the fan and clutch - and by swapping the fan clutch out for the old one, you pretty much eliminated that as being the problem.

Maybe your car's mad at you for taking away its e-fan, and it's demanding something nicer and more expensive...?

Strype · Apr 13, 2007

Darkwriter77 said:
That's just bizarre, dude. Even if the fan clutch was seized, it wouldn't be giving you that kind of a problem.

Only thing I can imagine is that the fan might somehow POSSIBLY be on backwards. That's the only thing left, really, because the only variable is two parts - the fan and clutch - and by swapping the fan clutch out for the old one, you pretty much eliminated that as being the problem.

Maybe your car's mad at you for taking away its e-fan, and it's demanding something nicer and more expensive...?

Bizarre is right. The only thing I can think of is that the problem was just not presenting itself for whatever reason when I ran the car without the fan. So I went to the local performance store and bought a better temp controller... Thicker wires, 30 amp fuse and I'll put the fawkin e-fan back on. Dwain the radiator again and take it back out to put the efan back on.

I swear to god if one more thing goes wrong with my cooling system I'm selling both mustangs and getting an Impreza STI.

HISSIN50 · Apr 13, 2007

Does your water pump have any issue spinning? Is there some sort of interference issue (something hitting something)?

That's about the only reason I can think why there'd be an issue. I agree with DW77 that even if the clutch was fully locked, it should be alright (unless the fan blade is not able to spin).

Oh, should you swap cars in, consider a VW or some other air/oil cooled variant.

Good luck.

Mr. Rustypwnz · Apr 13, 2007

if the fan was warped, it would shake the piss out of the car, like it had a bad motor mount, really bad vibration. if it was seized it wouldnt do anything but turn faster and when you hit the gas it would sound like a blower like a leaf blower. I dont know what the h it is.

getusummm · Apr 14, 2007

Do you have an exposed air filter under the hood? If so, when you throw the stock fan on, you will get turbulent air wash which will throw the MAF sensor out of wack.

Strype · Apr 16, 2007

So I confirmed it is happening only when the fan is mounted. So I bought a flex fan... SAME PROBLEM lol just not as bad. Still wants to cut out. All of the pulleys look fine when running

getusummm said:
Do you have an exposed air filter under the hood? If so, when you throw the stock fan on, you will get turbulent air wash which will throw the MAF sensor out of wack.

Whoa- That makes sense. Yes, yes I do. I'll check into that, I still have the stock air box. I'm running a short CAI and a cone K&N filter with a C&L 76mm MAF.

W
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getusummm · Apr 16, 2007

Its not wierd at all. Its very commom with open underhood filters. You should either put the stock air box back on, or move the filter into the fender. Been there, done that.

Strype · Apr 16, 2007

getusummm said:
Its not wierd at all. Its very commom with open underhood filters. You should either put the stock air box back on, or move the filter into the fender. Been there, done that.

Dude you don't know how much I appreciate it. I'll try that and see if it remedies my problem. And that would make total sense being that when I take the fan off there is no more turbulent air

I hope this works.

Strype · Apr 17, 2007

Thanx getusummm!!!

I would have NEVER figured this one out. I put a piece of cardboard in between the filter and the fan... Low and behold the idle smoothed out!

getusummm · Apr 17, 2007

Thats all those dang underhood filters are good for. Poor idle and surging. I have seen people just build a shield around them and even that helps out. Anything just to block the fan wash.

Strype · Apr 17, 2007

Yep... I lack a K&N filter and a 4" coupler in having my stock air box back together.

Boss 351 · Apr 17, 2007

or just move the filter to inside the fender?

Strype · Apr 18, 2007

Boss 351 said:
or just move the filter to inside the fender?

Well I meant 3.5"

My buddy said the same thing, but it's annoying to take the wheel off the car, then pull the inner fender gunk out, then the filter get's rained on etc...

I put the stock airbox back on and don't even notice a difference. No air baffle plus a K&N filter on a stock mustang is worth a dyno'd 7-10 hp. The "Cold Air Intake" doesn't add any more.

Darkwriter77 · Apr 18, 2007

I guess that explains part of why I had no luck at all when I bolted on a cone filter to my notch awhile back on a whim. But even with it mounted in the fender, I still got pinging, a loss of power, and just a tiny, tiny bit of surging - maybe that whole thing about the curve before the MAF, I dunno...

I'm happy with the stock box and paper panel filter. I can't quite justify a K&N as of yet - I don't see that I'd be gaining anything on a stock H/C/I motor at all, as I don't draw THAT much air through the intake to a point that the paper filter is a true restriction. Plus the oil migrating to the MAF wires from a K&N would only add another headache to my already long list of annoyances...

So, Strype, are you gonna bolt up a different e-fan configuration later on?

Strype · Apr 18, 2007

Darkwriter77 said:
I guess that explains part of why I had no luck at all when I bolted on a cone filter to my notch awhile back on a whim. But even with it mounted in the fender, I still got pinging, a loss of power, and just a tiny, tiny bit of surging - maybe that whole thing about the curve before the MAF, I dunno...

I'm happy with the stock box and paper panel filter. I can't quite justify a K&N as of yet - I don't see that I'd be gaining anything on a stock H/C/I motor at all, as I don't draw THAT much air through the intake to a point that the paper filter is a true restriction. Plus the oil migrating to the MAF wires from a K&N would only add another headache to my already long list of annoyances...

So, Strype, are you gonna bolt up a different e-fan configuration later on?

It'll probably be used as a door stop or for target practice.

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