Fan went through my new radiator.

Installed a Scott Drake aluminum radiator in my 64.5 6 cylinder coupe. During install I noticed the mount holes did not line up perfect. About a half hole off. I got the bolts in with a little pry bar assistance but I think that turned out to be a mistake. I mounted fan and spacer. Clearance to radiator "looked" good and I could rotate fan without interferance. I filled and burped, check for leaks and everyting looked good. I put about 40 miles on the next 2 days and all was good. The 3rd day I was out for a cruise and went over a sizable dip in the roadway. Not huge, but it did compress the front shocks a bit. When that happened one fan blade made contact with the lower tank of the new radiator. That curled the blade and caused it to dig deep into the radiator. Lost most of the coolant and had to have it towed home. Upon investigation I found that (what I would call) the frame rail that sets right below the radiator was bent up slightly. That prevented the mount holes from lining up. That set the radiator about a 1/2 inch higher than norm. That put that lower tank a smidge closer to the fan and when the front suspension comressed, the fan blade contacted the lower part of the radiator tank. Do you folks think there would be that much flex in that area to do that ? Trying to make sure I'm not going down a rabbit hole here. I could have my oem radiator tanked and use that, but I do like the looks of aftermarket aluminum. I do have a shorter fan spacer on hand. Thoughts ?
 
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Thats to bad ,what are the motor mounts like ,that could have caused some of it . I dont think frame flex would have done this because the motor sets in front of where the flex would be ,it would be at the fire wall . Is the fan to big ? The radiator setting higher probably helped the most
 
Yup, parts fail and things don't always work as planned. When the bolt holes didn't line up, that should have been my clue.Plan is to remove damaged radiator and see if I can bend that frame piece down. It is thick metal and won't bend easy. For some reason the oem radiator had sufficient clearance. Gotta decide if I want to order another aluminum one and make sure I get plenty of clearance (shorter fan spacer) or use oem radiator. I would have to have that one cleaned out.
 
Was that an OEM copper core radiator you removed? If you still have it, you might consider getting it totally reconditioned.
Yes, original 1964 I believe and it is back in a working for now. I should take it out and have it reconditioned this winter. Temp gauge runs about 1/2 between cold and full hot, except in stopped traffic. Then it warms up to 3/4. I have had it vapor lock and stumble a few times. Better since I installed carb spacer.
 
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Yes, original 1964 I believe and it is back in a working for now. I should take it out and have it reconditioned this winter. Temp gauge runs about 1/2 between cold and full hot, except in stopped traffic. Then it warms up to 3/4. I have had it vapor lock and stumble a few times. Better since I installed carb spacer.
Yyyyep... That's probably what I would do. That thing has held up for how long? LoL I guarantee you that there's no epoxy in it. :nice: