Feeling like selling this thing, anyone have an idea of what would cause this?

[DaveB]

For the past 5 months or so, my 94 GT has had a cooling problem. Unless you drive like a grandma, shifting at 2,000 rpm, the temp will get up into the area between the M and A (or even higher ) on the temp guage.

This all started this summer when I did a bunch of mods :

-BBK LT heads
-Dr. Gas offroad X
-ASP smog pump elminator kit
-took all smog stuff off
-new plugs/wires/cap/rotor

Right after this the car ran really hot. I drove an 100 miles on the highway and the temp guage was on the A the entire ride down . This was with the cruise set at 70.

I then get an Aeromotive AFPR which helped, but the problem still exists. I was told by a friend of mine that lowering the fuel pressure (Aeromotive suggests 47psi no vacume) would help. 2 days ago I set it to 40 no vacume hoping it would help.

I did a blast on the highway, and it seemed to help. As soon as I got off the highway, however, the temp guage was right on the A .

Even when just cruising around, shifting at 3k (not even going WOT), the temp gauge will get up between the M and A. And this is in 30-40* weather.

Does anyone have a clue what could cause this? I have pullies, but had them on for a year before the last round of mods without the slightest cooling problem.

I hate to say it, but this is aggarvating me so much, I want to sell this thing

 

[Bling]

First verify that you have no coolant leaks. Take a look in your radiator neck and see if there's alot of crap built up in there. Make sure the fans are coming too. Another thing often overlooked is the air dam under the front bumper (the black thing hanging down 4-5 inches under the bumper). Make sure it's not broken or missing. If so it'll o-heat and you'll be pissed that it was so easy. It's most likely a flow problem, I think. Get the radiator cleaned out, repl the t-stat and cap and you'll be golden. Good luck.

 

[unclejackrock]

Yeah, I'd say radiator or t-stat.....

 

[rudeone707]

Yeah, I'd say radiator or t-stat.....

Yeah get an aluminum radiator, 180* tstat, water wetter, and make sure none of your hoses are kinked.

 

[DaveB]

Thanks for the quick replies guys . Anyway, the thermostat has already been replaced with a new stock one. At the same time, the radiator was flushed. Should I start saving up for a Fluidyne (or however you spell it)?

 

[rudeone707]

stock one is 195* i believe, i would go with a 180*. They are like $16 from www.thunderacing.com You never know. it could be a quick and simple fix.

 

[DaveB]

stock one is 195* i believe, i would go with a 180*. They are like $16 from www.thunderacing.com You never know. it could be a quick and simple fix.

Sounds like a good idea. I guess Ill give that a shot along with some water wetter. How hard is it to install a thermostat? Haven't done one yet. Just empty the cooling system, swap the thermostats and then refill?

 

[94GTLaserRC]

stock one is 195* i believe, i would go with a 180*. They are like $16 from www.thunderacing.com You never know. it could be a quick and simple fix.

$16...(and Plus shipping)!!
That's a rip off..Got mine at Disc Auto for $9.

BTW...I had a Tstat that closed at an angle and got jammed. My temps were funny. WHen I redid the water neck gasket, I saw it, and it had only been in a couple of months. When I put in the Fluidyne, the stock one was full of sludge.

Good thing about a cooling proble is it can only be a couple of things.

Leaks.
Gunk
Tstat.
Fans coming on.

If all that is good, may be time for a Fluidyne (btw..it is a worth wild mod if youre going to be adding some more power to it)

RC

 

[RIO5.0]

Dave....You ever think of getting an Autometer gage??? Sounds to me like the gage could very well wack....Does it go down on power when hot??? Is it o/heating??? Losing coolant??? You never mention stuff like this..

There electrical gages and could be wack for various reasons...Get a real gage and you can see whats actually happening...You may just find, its not a problem.. You can get all the goodies to cool em down some, no doubt...For 50.00 you can mount up a gage and get the skinny on whats happening...

 

[DaveB]

Dave....You ever think of getting an Autometer gage??? Sounds to me like the gage could very well wack....Does it go down on power when hot??? Is it o/heating??? Losing coolant??? You never mention stuff like this..

There electrical gages and could be wack for various reasons...Get a real gage and you can see whats actually happening...You may just find, its not a problem.. You can get all the goodies to cool em down some, no doubt...For 50.00 you can mount up a gage and get the skinny on whats happening...

Power decrease isn't noticable, but when the temp guage gets that high, I really don't get on it, ya know . Few times I have, though, it never did ping, and my timing is set at 14*.

Coolant level is right on the money last time I checked, which was 4 or 5 days ago.

It gets that high, but just stays there, its never gotten higher than right before the L.

Well FWIW, when it was on the A one time, I took it to my mechanic and it was a little over 230*, I cant remember the exact number. He had used one of those temperature guns that shoots a little red light and gets the temp. He took it off the thermostat housing I believe.

Thanks for the replies guys. I really appreciate it .

 

[RIO5.0]

Thats Hot....You have verified the fans working ???

 

[DaveB]

Yup, seen them come on before.

 

[94greenvert]

Guys, I had this same problem after my intake swap and my guy told me our cars are known for AIR POCKETS. He burped it for me a few times and had me check the system in the morning cold and top it off. I remember my top rad hose collapsing from one of the air pockets. It was a freaky thing. The car was idle surging and the oil pressure guage was dropping down the 0.
Haven't had a problem since

 

[DaveB]

Guys, I had this same problem after my intake swap and my guy told me our <A TITLE="Click for more information about car" STYLE="text-decoration: none; border-bottom: medium solid green;" HREF="http://search.targetwords.com/u.search?x=5977|1||||cars|AA1VDw">car</A>s are known for AIR POCKETS. He burped it for me a few times and had me check the system in the morning cold and top it off. I remember my top rad hose collapsing from one of the air pockets. It was a freaky thing. The car was idle surging and the oil pressure guage was dropping down the 0.
Haven't had a problem since

Did u have to drain the radiator for the intake swap though? The only thing I can think that would have caused this was the bottle of Redline Water Wetter I put in when I first did the headers, x-pipe, etc. I didn't mention that. I have had the cooling system flushed when the problem first developed. How much did the "burping" cost you? What did they do?

 

[94GTLaserRC]

Look/Listen,
I agree that burping will help, but there is no way if you fill the radiator up right at home, and get as much of the visible bubbles out as possible, that the car will get THAT HOT like he is describing.

Burping > Non burping.
BUT
Non burping does NOT = OVERHEATING if you fill it correctly.

RC

 

[Bling]

Here's a good way to eliminate air pockets when filling the cooling system. Remove the ect sensor in the lower manifold.(driver side front, by the #5 fuel injector) Use a long funnel and fill the coolant from there. Fill it till you have coolant to the top of the radiator neck. Put the sensor back in, install the rad cap, turn on the heater on and run the car till the heater gets hot. Air pockets gone, problem solved. It would also help if the front of the car is a bit higher that the rear. I.E. on a driveway, raised up a bit with a floor jack etc.

 

[RIO5.0]

I'm pretty sure Dave has been there done that on the "burping" and filling from the intake, at least his last post concerning this, he mentioned that...I know as I mentioned that to him the last time....I had a mother of a time getting mine "un-air locked"...

 

[smokediver27]

Not sure if this helps or not but the replacement water outlet (where the thermostat is housed) bought at autozone actually has a relief screw on top of it that will allow you to bleed.

 

[str8stang036]

Make sure there isnt anything weird connected to the CCRM. When I bought mine the previous owner tried to bridge something in them CCRM and that cause my temps to be at A or L sometimes. I took it out and my fan started coming on. Your fans probably arent coming on.

Check for leaks everywhere
Check that the fan is coming on.
Check the T-stat if no leaks. You could have put it in backwards.
Burp the system like everyone has said.

You can buy a scanner to check both speeds of the fan. HIGH and LOW.