Few questions about ARP rod & main bolts

TheBocSez · Nov 25, 2005

I bought a low milage engine which is supposed to have APR rod bolts and ARP main bolts. I removed the rod and main caps to inspect the bearings. Now here is my questions.

1) How can I tell ARP rod bolts from stockers? I can see the ARP logo on the main bolts, but there is nothing on the rod bolts. Do the ARP rod bolts have the logo on them also?

2) If they are ARP rod bolts, what is the proper torque spec for them on stock rods (1991 motor)? If they are stock bolts, should I just retorque them to the factory 19-24 ft lbs?

3) The main bolts are ARP, what is the torque specs for the them? Do I need to apply oil/ moly lube when retorquing or can I just retorque?

I checked the ARP site, and they are under construction. I called the 1800 number and the office is closed. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!

TT91 · Nov 25, 2005

all arp bolts have the logo on them. Always apply moly lube, and use the search feature.

TheBocSez · Nov 25, 2005

Then I guess I have stock rod bolts, no logo.

Apply moly lube again when re installing

Do you know what the torque specs for the main bolts are?

and I did search. Got 100+ pages of head bolt, intake bolt, aluminum heads and ARP bolts. Not what I was looking for but thanks for the reminder.

Ourobos · Nov 26, 2005

The stock rod bolt torque is NOT 24 ft/lbs..
http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_302_351W.htm
On the mains, ARP specs are different than factory Ford specs.. 130 ft/lb if using 30w oil, 90 ft/lb using the ARP provided moly..

Black1987Stang · Nov 26, 2005

My ARP rod bolts didnt have the logo on them. if u post a pic of them i could tell u if they looked like mine. The stock Ford ones are ALOT skinnier and weak looking.

timewarped1972 · Nov 26, 2005

i believe some of those arp bolts would have a different color head, and also some of them have a 12 point nut.....unless the stockers on these engines do too....not sure, but thats how the arp wave loc rod bolts were for a 302 i built once..

Rick 91GT · Nov 26, 2005

I see a lot of ARP rod bolts that do not have the logo on them...

I also prefer to use the Moly of everything, make sure the main studs are finger tight in the block before putting the caps back on and retorquing. By any chance did you check the TQ before you pulled them apart? It is best to put it back to exactly where it was to avoid any issues.....

TheBocSez · Nov 26, 2005

Ourobos said:
The stock rod bolt torque is NOT 24 ft/lbs..
http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_302_351W.htm
On the mains, ARP specs are different than factory Ford specs.. 130 ft/lb if using 30w oil, 90 ft/lb using the ARP provided moly..

Ok, I checked my Chilton and Haynes manuals and both say that rod bolt torque is 19-24 lbs as does this site

http://www.summitracing.com/streetandstrip/charts_guides/charts_fordtrq.htm

But they give the 40-45 lb rating the the 289 hp and Boss 302 block. Which is correct? 19-24 seems low but its what i had. Good thing I asked 1st.

87stangdiddle said:
My ARP rod bolts didnt have the logo on them. if u post a pic of them i could tell u if they looked like mine. The stock Ford ones are ALOT skinnier and weak looking.

I will get a pic and post it a little later. Thanks

timewarped1972 said:
i believe some of those arp bolts would have a different color head, and also some of them have a 12 point nut.....unless the stockers on these engines do too....not sure, but thats how the arp wave loc rod bolts were for a 302 i built once..

Mine have a rectangle head and are the blued color of most other bolts.

Rick 91GT said:
I see a lot of ARP rod bolts that do not have the logo on them...

I also prefer to use the Moly of everything, make sure the main studs are finger tight in the block before putting the caps back on and retorquing. By any chance did you check the TQ before you pulled them apart? It is best to put it back to exactly where it was to avoid any issues.....

Ok, maybe after I post pics, you guys can help me decide. Moly seems to be the way to go so i'm going to pick up a tube today. I thought about checking torque specs before taking it apart. Of course this occured to me AFTER I had taken it apart. You know what they say about hind sight.

Thanks for the help guys and I will post a pic later

Rick 91GT · Nov 26, 2005

Stock rod bolt TQ is 19-24...ARP bolts are a different spec, depending what model they are.

If they are stock rods and he added ARP bolts is should say ARP on the end. Most of the time when I see ARP bolts without the logo it is on an aftermarket rod and they do not use the logo at times.

Check out this link http://www.arp-bolts.com/ARP_2005CatFinal(p)work.id2.pdf Go to PAGE 29

TheBocSez · Nov 26, 2005

Now Im a little more confused. The books I have read do say 19-24 lbs. The site provided above say 24lbs for 302's up to 1984. The gives the 45 lb spec for 85 - up. The main cap ratingis also higher 70lbs for up to 84 and 105 for 85 to present. So which is it guys. I have them at 24 right now, and it seems loose. But I havent gone through an engine in a long time so I cant base it from memory.

TheBocSez · Nov 26, 2005

Here is the best pics I could get with my camera phone. Hope they help you help me.

I am assuming the rod bolts are stock. The is no logo on the head that I can see. And the head is rectangle. The pics of ARP rod bolts that I have seen all seem to be more oval.

Regarding the torque specs on the rod bolts. Chilton, Haynes, and a Ford site I found, all say that with stock rod bolts, its 19-24 lbs. Unless someone else KNOWS for sure that this is incorrect. I will go with 24lbs.

Rick 91GT · Nov 26, 2005

Looks like a stock rod bolt to me, 19-24 is correct

Black1987Stang · Nov 26, 2005

yea the top of the bolt looks like the stocker but dont guarantee me on it, i would go with the stock specs

TheBocSez · Nov 26, 2005

Are new stock rod bolts something that can be installed at home, or is a machine shop required? Thanks

Black1987Stang · Nov 26, 2005

TheBocSez said:
Are new stock rod bolts something that can be installed at home, or is a machine shop required? Thanks

If youre going to change them, i would just upgrade to ARP's. I changed mine at home (with the pistons still on the rod too) I used a vice, a small piece of wood to protect rod and a small round piece of metal tube. Just put the bolt in by hand and to make sure the top part is centered and use the round metal piece and put it where the nut should go and stick it in the vice, The vice will push the bolt in all the way and will go through the metal tube. When i put my new ARP rod bolts in I had to prestretch them 3 times to i think 28ft. lbs and with using the assembly used that came with it. I forget but it said so in the instructions. As for getting the old ones out I used my trusty hammer and with the rod wrapped up in an old shirt so it cant get scratched or banged up.

Few questions about ARP rod & main bolts

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