fiberglass hood

Looks like it fits pretty good to me. What part don't you like? I wouldn't use any hood springs at all, though. The light ones I've seen aren't strong enough to hold the hood up, but still strong enough to bow the hood over time.

Absolutely. However, you need to know that any all repairs, such as holes and cracks need to made from the FRONT ONLY!! To fill holes, grind out a "countersink" about two times the diameter of the hole and nearly as deep as the fiberglass is thick, then mix up resin according to the instructions on the can, cut some fiberglass matte to the approximate size of the hole, then brush on some resin, then set the matte on the wet resin, then brush on enough resin to soak the matte. Once you have the first layer soaked, add another layer of matte, more resin, then more matte. Three layers is typically enough for a good repair. Let it dry until the resin is hard, then sand it, first with 80-grit, then 100-grit, then 220. To finish it off, you'll likely need to skim it with some short-strand filler, finished to about 320-grit, then prime and paint. All the materials you need should be available at any decent paint store. Remember to get extra brushes (I use 2" wide and the cheapest they have) and some rubber gloves, and it's not a bad idea to mask off the surrounding area since I always seem to drop a big glob of resin in the worst places.

By "Front" I mean the finished side. If you try to repair fiberglass form the rear, the repair will be very visible and will even show after you prime and paint. Think of it as you would a weld: that is, you "vee" the damage, then fill it with increasingly larger patches until it's done. I've repaired lots of broken fiberglass on racecars and not once has any of my repairs ever shown or failed. At least not until it gets snapped clear off in the next crash...