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filling chrome strip holes

  • Thread starter Thread starter valley82
  • Start date Start date Jul 16, 2005

valley82

Member
May 16, 2005
204
2
19
San Diega, Ca.
Jul 16, 2005
#1
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #1
hey guys,
the 66 is stripped of everything but the drivetrain (which will be coming out in the next two weeks). I'm wondering what the best way to fill the holes left from removing the chrome strips down the side of the car and the lower strips under the door? weld, lead, brassing, body filler????? I've finish primered and shot about 10 cars in the past but I never had to fill holes. Thanks in advance...
LET THE BODY WORK BEGIN!!!!!!!!
 

krash kendall

Active Member
Nov 19, 2004
1,258
0
36
Aldergrove, B.C. Canada
Jul 16, 2005
#2
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #2
I've had good success several times with a mig welder, grinder and a bit of filler.
 

dennis112

15 Year Member
May 15, 2005
1,561
36
79
Amish Wonderland of Central PA.
Jul 16, 2005
#3
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #3
valley82 said:
weld, lead, brassing, body filler????? I've finish primered and shot about 10 cars in the past but I never had to fill holes. Thanks in advance...
LET THE BODY WORK BEGIN!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Any of the "welding" methods will work well. Use whichever you feel most comfortable with. I prefer mig welding myself.

Filling holes with body filler tends to lead to problems down the road due to moisture and shrinkage.

Weld, grind, then cover with a thin coat of filler.
 

valley82

Member
May 16, 2005
204
2
19
San Diega, Ca.
Jul 16, 2005
#4
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #4
I don't have any time behind a mig welder, but I have worked for 15 years with soft solder in alot of different combos of lead/tin. I just don't know if it will stick well enough to endure the vibrations of daily driving??? I Know that some of the old school body guys use lead to fill dents and add custom lips to the sheet metal on cars....???? If it would work I think it would be the best solution because the soft solder will not rust and the heat needed is way less than welding or brassing. Has anyone used this method???
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
4,675
38
119
Antelope Valley, SoCal
Jul 16, 2005
#5
  • Jul 16, 2005
  • #5
valley82 said:
I don't have any time behind a mig welder, but I have worked for 15 years with soft solder in alot of different combos of lead/tin. I just don't know if it will stick well enough to endure the vibrations of daily driving??? I Know that some of the old school body guys use lead to fill dents and add custom lips to the sheet metal on cars....???? If it would work I think it would be the best solution because the soft solder will not rust and the heat needed is way less than welding or brassing. Has anyone used this method???
Click to expand...

Thats what the factory used back in the '60s, both on the assembly line and for repairs because plastic body fillers sucked. You know those shallow lines that connect the R/L edges of the trunk to the rear window? Thats factory leadwork. You can try it and if the results are good, go with it. Otherwise welding is probably the best long-term answer. Just be casreful not to let heat build up or you'll have warped sheetmetal.
 

allcarfan

The Answer Man
Founding Member
Apr 8, 2001
2,458
1
56
North Atlanta
Jul 18, 2005
#6
  • Jul 18, 2005
  • #6
you can also use small pieces of fiberglass on the back and front side of your doors, then just a little filler...not bondo. Works perfectly!

The BEST way to do it, though, is with a mig welder.
 
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