finally completed the turbo kit

stangman67 said:

How is the ground clearence with a lowered car? My 67 LCA are pretty much level to the ground, and actually, the frame mount is slightly lower than the lower ball joint. Is that a 3" DP? I dont think i could fit it.

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I don't know if I'd run long tube headers on your car. That's pretty low. I have to go and measure again because I forget. BUT, I do remember it was in the ballpark that if your front fender at the center is 28in from the ground, the DP is 7.5 in from the ground. So if yours is 25 from the ground, the the DP is is going to be 4.5. Which is better than longtubes. Also, since the low spot is between the tires, it will go up as the car goes over a bump, and not smack it a second after you pass over it like longtubes. As soon as you get past the framing for the lower control arm, you get it to go up farther, and have a ton of room.

1320stang said:

(whistles!!)

What all is included in the kit? What brand turbo, size?

What is not included in your kit that you have to source yourself and what is a ballpark figure for that stuff?

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(ears perk up !!)

(1 turbo and housing.) Master power turbo T-70, precision .81(.96 for strokers or hot 302's) A/R housing

K&N air filter and clamps

oil lines to turbo and drain. 3AN to turbo, 10AN, both braided lines. Bulkhead fitting to go in pan, and adapter from turbo to 10AN

(Hotside)two headers with V-band clamps, SS clamps. .063 SS tubing with flex pipe. Header bolts and felpro gaskets.RTV(red) for t-4 flange to turbo. 3in DP from turbo to about 1ft before floorboards.V-band clamp again for DP and SS clamp. SS wastegate flange and gasket.38mm Tial wastegate (silver)

(Coldside) Gasket from carb to bonnet($8 part, $15 to ship, so I'll buy more than one and include one in the kit.) 3.5 to 3in reducer HTS silicone hose. Also a 3 to 2.5 reducer, and 90 deg elbow. SS BOV flange welded to SS 3in tubing. A blue tial 50mm BOV bolts to that of course.

To complete the kit, you need a oil filter relocation kit(41 and some change I saw at Summit) Then the Metal bonnet goes for around 200, depending on where you get it, and the plastic is cheaper. I don't know exactly I got mine used for 35 bucks. At the time I'll tell whoever has it, who is having the better deals on the bonnets. Again, the only reason I don't inlcude these is I don't need them for mock up, and you 'll just pay twice for shipping on these.

allcarfan said:

what kind of extra fuel do you think is going to be necessary with these kits? What kind of PSI do you think you will be putting out? People are going to ask those questions.

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Most go with an A1000 aeromotive pump or something of the same flow. What kind of PSI I am going to be putting out ? I only run 7, on pump gas. Getting somethings upgraded before I bump it up. I need a brake bad. But the turbo is supposed to be good for 22psi on a 351w at 6500. It could make more on a 302, but it's all relevant. Everyones is different. But it's plenty big enough to blow a 302, or have a 9- low 10sec dart motor.
I forgot to check my PM's.

BlueMonster65 said:

10secgoal i like your work! looks good. i have some ideas for you to consider when putting together a kit that will be sold to "joe public" basically i'd suggest you mimic the paxton novi add on kit. and what i mean is limit boost to around 9psi, and include instructions for buyers on how to boost reference the mechanical pump and run the lines etc. this way it will not seem so intimidating to the potential buyer. you also might want to consider including a bonnet with the kit, you may be able to get a bulk deal from EV or CSU. granted it all depends on how serious you want to get with this. i also like the idea of ceramic coating the pipes. keeping the cost down is not always a good thing, if the kit is of high quality and includes all the parts required i think you'll find more serious buyers interesed and less people just sayin " yeah i was thinking about adding a turbo or maybe i'll just add nitrous, it's easier" oh yeah and don't forget the standard disclaimer that absolves 10secgoal (industries) of any liability for exploding cars...and stuff.

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The disclaimer is the reason I don't really want to explain some like that to someone. I don't want them to screw it up, and blame it on me. you can just buy a regulator, run boost to it and call it a day.(return needed obviously) I haven't seen many people make much Hp with a mechanical. i wouldn't recomend it. Only because I know the A1000 works, although expensive. But I tried another pump that by its flow ratings, should have been enough. So I went with tried and true, and it's been fine ever since.I only, only don't add the bonnet because of shipping. Like the gasket for the bonnet is 8 bucks. But they charge you 15 bucks to ship it. So I'll buy a few, so you don't have to pay that outrageoues shipping.The wastegate spring is sent with .7 bar. After that, it's up to you if you want to change it. I would aways start low anyways. The turbo is in a location so when I make or figure out the intercooler, it can be clocked, and add it all. Companies want too much to change tooling to make the grill fit with a decent size intercooler. All in due time.I won't offer coating as of right now. One reason is alo of turbo companies I have seen complained about always use that as an excuse as to why they haven't shippied a kit.2, that was also one of the reasons I wanted to use SS. I can't coat myself. I'm not afraid to make the kit expensive, I'm sure there are some people that would buy it. But if your normal "Joe" has a choice between a blower and turbo, I don't want them go to blower simply for cost. I said it when I started, I don't need to make a million dollars. I just want your average joe to go to a track with this, and put the smack down on some big dawgs at the rack. Whatever I pay for something, I have to raise the cost of the kit. Which I don't want. Right now I just want basic,simple and easy. But for ease, you can't beat a nitrous kit. Don't have to srop a pan, really tune anything. But you do need to fill bottles. you do need steeper gears. And if nothing else, it's just not as damn cool.
Allcarfan. As of right now this is the only turbo. Anything different, and everything has to change.Yor stock line are almost garunteed not to work. The blue, not a chance. The volume drops as PSI increases on those things. So if you run 10 psi, you need 17 psi at the carb. And the flow sucks on a blue at that psi.

thekid760 said:

Bump for more info.

Have you sold any of these kits yet? Will it fit a 65 GT?

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Sold one so far. Have another done and am sending the headers into be made into one piece tubes. Taking a while to make the jigs and what not. But the guy I sold it to will have his running soon and will be posting up here in a little while with some numbers. I haven't gotten a chance to try it on a 65 yet. Buddy works a classic mustang shop and I'm waiting on word as to when one will be there with no exhuast on one.The real pain on those cars is going to be the driver side.

1320stang said:

Not to turn the thread, but where do you send the tubes off to make them one piece? Can they make tubes in SS? I'll end up having to make headers for my FE into a '63 Fairlane project and was thinking if I used mild steel and got it all tacked up, I'd like to have the tubes made one piece.

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Really wouln't be worht it to you. It's going to cost me about 800-1200 bucks to setup the machine. Then I have to buy the tubes.But if your still inerested, PM and I can send you his E-Mail.
Thanx Gonzo

Thanx Ponyguy. Kieth that crank pulley was for a P.S and A/C setup. This wouldn't fit with all that. So you have no need for an original 3 pulley setup. So I plasma torched it off. The water pump and alt go in stock location.
I don't know that I will be selling the kit this complete anymore. I sold just the exhuast on ebay, explained that that was all that it came with, and people still emailed me asking me if it came with a fuel pump, if it would fit a 92 mustang...all kinds of wierd ???'s.
I wil have new pics up soon. The new system has a better merge and better clearance almost all around. Bigger tire can be used up front, compressor can be clocked for an IC, and can run up to a 4 in down pipe.