I don't know if I'd run long tube headers on your car.stangman67 said:
That's pretty low. I have to go and measure again because I forget. BUT, I do remember it was in the ballpark that if your front fender at the center is 28in from the ground, the DP is 7.5 in from the ground. So if yours is 25 from the ground, the the DP is is going to be 4.5. Which is better than longtubes. Also, since the low spot is between the tires, it will go up as the car goes over a bump, and not smack it a second after you pass over it like longtubes. As soon as you get past the framing for the lower control arm, you get it to go up farther, and have a ton of room.(ears perk up !!)1320stang said:
Most go with an A1000 aeromotive pump or something of the same flow. What kind of PSI I am going to be putting out ? I only run 7, on pump gas. Getting somethings upgraded before I bump it up. I need a brake bad. But the turbo is supposed to be good for 22psi on a 351w at 6500. It could make more on a 302, but it's all relevant. Everyones is different. But it's plenty big enough to blow a 302, or have a 9- low 10sec dart motor.allcarfan said:
The disclaimer is the reason I don't really want to explain some like that to someone. I don't want them to screw it up, and blame it on me. you can just buy a regulator, run boost to it and call it a day.(return needed obviously) I haven't seen many people make much Hp with a mechanical. i wouldn't recomend it. Only because I know the A1000 works, although expensive. But I tried another pump that by its flow ratings, should have been enough. So I went with tried and true, and it's been fine ever since.I only, only don't add the bonnet because of shipping. Like the gasket for the bonnet is 8 bucks. But they charge you 15 bucks to ship it. So I'll buy a few, so you don't have to pay that outrageoues shipping.The wastegate spring is sent with .7 bar. After that, it's up to you if you want to change it. I would aways start low anyways. The turbo is in a location so when I make or figure out the intercooler, it can be clocked, and add it all. Companies want too much to change tooling to make the grill fit with a decent size intercooler. All in due time.I won't offer coating as of right now. One reason is alo of turbo companies I have seen complained about always use that as an excuse as to why they haven't shippied a kit.2, that was also one of the reasons I wanted to use SS. I can't coat myself. I'm not afraid to make the kit expensive, I'm sure there are some people that would buy it. But if your normal "Joe" has a choice between a blower and turbo, I don't want them go to blower simply for cost. I said it when I started, I don't need to make a million dollars. I just want your average joe to go to a track with this, and put the smack down on some big dawgs at the rack. Whatever I pay for something, I have to raise the cost of the kit. Which I don't want. Right now I just want basic,simple and easy. But for ease, you can't beat a nitrous kit. Don't have to srop a pan, really tune anything. But you do need to fill bottles. you do need steeper gears. And if nothing else, it's just not as damn cool.BlueMonster65 said:
thekid760 said:
I just completed the install and plumbing of a Scott Drake bell-crank booster/MC setup, together with a JMC MC for a McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing, on my kids' '65 with 289. The engine has no exhaust on it at the moment. It has some generic FRPP chrome sheetmetal valve covers, which I would guess are probably incompatible with roller rockers. The export brace is off too. If there's anything in this combo that you'd be interested in a dimension, I would be happy to measure it for you. I could also take pictures, again, if you're interested.10secgoal said:I haven't gotten a chance to try it on a 65 yet. Buddy works a classic mustang shop and I'm waiting on word as to when one will be there with no exhuast on one.The real pain on those cars is going to be the driver side.
The water pump and alt go in stock location.
