When I got my 91 it was stock (bought it in 99). Here is a list of mods since as noted earlier most people wont help since this is a daily question.
- Remove air silencer (if still there) it is in the fender well. You will need to remove the air box inorder to get it out. Then install the box. (2hp)
-Under drive pullies ($80-120)... easy to install your self. (5hp)
- 65MM TB and EGR spacer ...easy to do (5-10 hp)
- 73mm/76mm CNL MAF...easy to do (5-15hp)
the last 2 need to be done together. Hope this helps.
- Remove air silencer (if still there) it is in the fender well. You will need to remove the air box inorder to get it out. Then install the box. (2hp)
-Under drive pullies ($80-120)... easy to install your self. (5hp)
- 65MM TB and EGR spacer ...easy to do (5-10 hp)
- 73mm/76mm CNL MAF...easy to do (5-15hp)
the last 2 need to be done together. Hope this helps.
First thing I'd advise you to do is stiffen up the chassis with some subframes before you spend on mods to make the car faster.
No sense in making a car faster if all that new horsepower is bending the crap out of your framerails and torque boxes and you're unable to go straight.
First thing I'd recommend you install is subframes and maybe a STB.
Next I'd install a nice aftermarket shifter if you have a manual that is still equipped with a stock shifter. A new shifter will help prevent damage to the tranny so that you can focus on bettering the engine and putting in bigger gears in the rear.
Check on your brakes and driveshaft. If the handling checks out, then go to the exhaust and building more horsepower.
No sense in making a car faster if all that new horsepower is bending the crap out of your framerails and torque boxes and you're unable to go straight.
First thing I'd recommend you install is subframes and maybe a STB.
Next I'd install a nice aftermarket shifter if you have a manual that is still equipped with a stock shifter. A new shifter will help prevent damage to the tranny so that you can focus on bettering the engine and putting in bigger gears in the rear.
Check on your brakes and driveshaft. If the handling checks out, then go to the exhaust and building more horsepower.
If your car is going to be somewhat stock...don't get the 410's if you have an auto...I along with others have had 410's and 373's and the 410's actually slowed (us) and we because it is to much gear for the AOD...go with 373's...and plus if you go with a supercharger later on...that gear would be to much to begin with...
No matching up issues with the stock headers to aftermarket exhaust, or when you make enough power to warrant aftermarket headers. It will all bolt up fine. Get the ones with the seat support, and dont worry about the k-member brace (4 point on you mention). Look into some upper and lower control arms and some torque box supports.
Mike.
Mike.
If you want a nice sounding exhaust system at a price that won't burn a hole through your pockets, I'd go for a MAC system. I have ceramic coated headers and a catback system myself and it sounds fantastic! Next I'll be changing out the h-pipe with a MAC catted h-pipe only because we have emissions testing here and I've heard the x-pipe may be difficult to pass.
I still think you should reconsider and get the subframes first.
I've heard lot's of people find surprises such as cracked floorpans, cracked a-pillars, and due to chassis twist, the a-pillars leak when you wash the car.
The cheapest set of subframes out there are $150 a pair if not less. Then all you need is a shop to weld them in for $50.
I still think you should reconsider and get the subframes first.
I've heard lot's of people find surprises such as cracked floorpans, cracked a-pillars, and due to chassis twist, the a-pillars leak when you wash the car.
The cheapest set of subframes out there are $150 a pair if not less. Then all you need is a shop to weld them in for $50.