Progress Thread finally tuning (and more)

JD1964 · Jul 1, 2026

I’m glad I’ve gotten a somewhat organized in the last few years because I rarely throw car parts away. Took me about 3 minutes to find my original strut mounts. I’m looking forward to putting these back on to see if it shuts the clunking up.

How can I modify these or the towers to get more alignment adjustment? Even a tad more would be worth the work for me.

AeroCoupe · Jul 1, 2026

Depends on what you need alignment wise. If you need more camber use bolts on the strut to spindle mount to get that.

What brand of CC plates did you have on it?

JD1964 · Jul 1, 2026

UPR I think is what’s on there now.

I don’t think my needs are extreme but I’d
like to get some extra positive caster out of the stock mounts. Makes it easier to keep the car going straight

AeroCoupe · Jul 2, 2026

I will just say this as I’ve seen these cars butchered up on the top of the shock towers to get more caster. Just suck it up and buy the MM plates and move on. They are the best and most copied for a reason.

JD1964 · Jul 4, 2026

Ive heard the MM plates are good. Although some people out there claim their MM plates are noisy. That rattle noise drive me crazy. If I have to sacrifice extra caster for a quiet ride, so be it.

The first thing I’ll do is put the factory mounts back in (unmodified) and see how it aligns. If I can get the camber right with the factory mounts, I’ll give the caster setting (whatever it happens to be) a try and see if I can tell a difference from raked back position its in now. I mean, right now in the UPR plates the top of the strut is pulled as far back as possible. So if the factory mounts move them forward again, maybe ill know a driving difference, maybe not

JD1964 · Jul 26, 2026

I took the UPR camber plates out and put the factory strut mounts back in. I set the rivet in the same position as the factory had it which is as far positive as possible in the factory holes. I measured camber at about 1.5 degrees negative. I think the fact my front end is lowered a bit won’t let the camber come in spec with the factory limits. I’m going to buy the camber adjustment bolts and bring the setting as close to zero as I can and then I’ll reset the toe setting if necessary.

The great news for me is the clunking is gone. It’s factory strut mounts for me, indefinitely

nicholase · Jul 26, 2026

How are you measuring the camber?

JD1964 · Jul 26, 2026

nicholase said:
How are you measuring the camber?

Using a straight edge placed across the lip of the rim and measured with a digital angle finder

nicholase · Jul 26, 2026

I do my own alignments with a QuickTrick alignment setup. It's really just a digital angle finder on a wheel mounting bracket similar to what your using. If you aren't, make sure you account for the floor. It's probably not level. If your angle finder has a zero function, set it on the floor just in front of or behind the wheel, then zero it, then put it on the wheel. If you don't have a zero function just check the floor and write it down, check the wheel write it down, and do the math.

Unlike a calibrated and perfectly level alignment rack us garage guys have to account for our unlevel floors.

JD1964 · Jul 26, 2026

I factored the floor in at .25

JD1964 · Jul 26, 2026

Even then the factory variance is .75 + or-

If I can get it close to zero than I’m happy even considering the floor not being completely level. I’ll do my best to factor the floor in but a .25 is not going to violate a .75 allowable variance

JD1964 · Aug 2, 2026

I got the camber bolts installed. -.6 degrees driver and -.8 degrees passengers. That’s that’s where the camber now is and hopefully will stay.

I’ll do a string line toe setting when I have more room in the garage. Started raining hard and I had to move another car back into the garage which took up my work space

AeroCoupe · Aug 2, 2026

-0.5 to -1.0 is really good for the street.

JD1964 · Aug 5, 2026

I finished the toe alignment today. It was slightly toe out. I gave it 1/2 turn of the tie rod towards toe in on each side. I don’t know exactly the number that would show on a real alignment machine but I can tell you it’s now ever so slightly toe in with relation to the rear thrust angle.

No more strut mount rattle, drives straight, steering wheel is properly centered, doesn’t pull and handles good. I’m happy

JD1964 · Aug 12, 2026

You guys ever notice how the stock upper intake bolts don’t go into the lower very far and thus risk stripping the aluminum threads? Well started having that problem but here’s what I did.

For the front and back shorter bolts I made a stud to install in the lower. Nice and deep and way past the boogered part. The studs also help tremendously for guidance when installing the upper.

For the other 4 longer bolts I got grade 5 replacements. They’re 6 1/2” long and reach into the lower threads much better. A flat washers will be needed for these. Got them on Amazon. Took me a while to track them down at a decent price.

In case anyone wants them, maybe this will save you some time.

https://a.co/d/07s1qRom

AeroCoupe · Aug 12, 2026

I use studs on the lower to the heads and completely stud the upper to the lower. Makes gasket alignment super easy and zero vacuum leaks.

JD1964 · Aug 12, 2026

You use studs on the longer positions too? (upper to lower intake)

AeroCoupe · Aug 12, 2026

Yes sir.

DadLife0724 · Aug 12, 2026

I'm digging the studded all the way around idea. I only used studs for my long bolts.

AeroCoupe · Aug 12, 2026

Here is the lower only. Was int he middle of swapping out the old Crane Energizer rockers out for some Scorpions.

Progress Thread finally tuning (and more)

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

I lubed and pushed, until it was all the way in

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

I lubed and pushed, until it was all the way in

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

there is enough sticking out to grab on to

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Active Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

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