finding hidden rust during pre-purchase exam?

[Snail50]

I searched already, and came back with 200 or so threads; I read several, but they didn't really answer my questions.

So: when looking at a prospective purchase, where are the common rust problem areas? I know about the lower front corners of the doors, the fender lips, the cowl, and the floorpans, but are there any other common areas? Also, is there a way to examine the car from "inside" if no rust is apparent on the outside? Where are the not-so-common rust areas?

I haven't been around the classics since I sold my 67 coupe 8 years ago ( ), so I don't remember exactly how things are laid out. Can the carpet be pulled up easily to examine the floorpans from inside? Is there a way to check for a ruined cowl without pouring water into it? With the magnet test, do you just wrap it in a thin cloth, then run it carefully along the body until it loses pull, indicating filler?

If there IS rust (for instance small paint blisters on the fender lips and front door corners), does that indicate a very serious problem, or is that just a common bug that will likely bite all Mustangs sooner or later and must be dealt with? Basically, are a few small rust-blisters okay to overlook, so long as a thorough body-job and repainting are planned within a year or so?

Sorry for all the questions, but I've been out of the game for awhile, am now looking to get back into it, and want to be brought back up to speed on some of the inspection tricks. Are there any websites that have a good Mustang-specific, but still general inspection checklists? I have one from KARMustangs.com, and am looking for more ideas.
Thanks. All suggestions are appreciated.

 

[6Stang7]

Common rust spots I remember are the bottom of the quater panels and doors, but rust and filler can be anywhere really. I have never used this, but it looks interesting and it may be worth a shot.

http://secure.50resto.com/product1.cfm?SID=1&Product_ID=2039

-Shaun

 

[SuperDave]

RUST (see Timeless Wisdom #1 below) is the Mustangs #1 enemy. There are NO "rust-free" Mustangs. They ALL have it it is just a matter of how much and where.

Paint blisters are often found where Bondo has been applied and has later blistered again as the rust loosens the filler. Cowl rust is especially nasty and running water in the cowl will quickly show if leakage into the carpets is happening.

Well-preserved examples are well worth spending the money to acquire. You'll never save money trying to fix a "rust-bucket".

 

[crushnut]

You'll never save money trying to fix a "rust-bucket".

Boy is that true!!

 

[2nd Mustang]

I use those refrigerator magnets that are like credit card size to place on suspected body panels. Any hint of bondo and they won't stick to the metal. I also roll down the side windows and use a flashlight to look down inside the doors.

 

[zookeeper]

Don't forget to have a look under the battery. It's not uncommon for severe rust to attack the inner fender apron, radiator support, frame rail and even the hood and passenger side fender from the corrosive vapors from the battery.

 

[Sicarius428]

The trunk area and especially behind the rear wheels is a big problem area.
The bottom side of the doors.
Cowl(i think that is how you spell it)
Yeah, the battery try is a good place to check as stated before
Floor boards too.

Unless the seller lets you disassemble the car, those are the main spots of problem rust. Places like fenders and parts that can be replaced I wouldn't worry too much about but anywhere which it will take some cutting can get costly. A couple of blisters isn't too bad. You can clean it out and smooth it out without too much of a problem but try to check the back side of the body panel if you can... The paint can be the only thing holding that part together. The trunk area is very common and you can just lift up the trunk mat to take a look. Also look under the car in the trunk area. Check around window molding. If there is blistering there it can be very costly to replace the metal if it is damaged. Note. It is cheaper to get a nicer body with a rough running engine than get a better running car with a poorer body.

 

[Great68]

Check the torque boxes!!

 

[mp67]

Everywhere. Besides all the places people have mentioned, try to find a car with the original paint job. Even if its faded badly. If its rust free on the exterior with the original paint then it should have less rust problems. Not saying not to check all of the usual places anyway, but repaints can hide alot.
sometimes the magnet check can fool you cause someone could have fixed exterior rust with new metal and used very little filler but just coverd up rust behind bodypart. Quarter panels is an example. Also, don't know if anyone mentioned, but check the bottom of the doors where the drain holes are, and bottom of quarters where drain holes are. These drain holes tend to get plugged with trash and hold moisture and rust. The metal can look good from the outside but be paper thin cause of the rust inside. Good luck.

 

[Platonic Solid]

... the rear trunk drop-offs, and front and rear window channel areas. Look for band-aid RTV repairs on window channels and trunk gasket. Thoroughly inspect the trunk area, especially the inside tail light panel where it meets the trunk floor. Look for puckering rust in the engine bay area where the inner fender wells overlap - especially near the top where the exterior fenders bolt on.

 

[Edbert]

Under the carpet, particularly the drivers footwell. Floors can be solid in appearance from underneath with no hint of rust yet be rusted severly from the INSIDE.

 

[Snail50]

Great advice, everyone. Thanks a lot!

 

[geegee]

Any rust seen is a reason to be cautious. Bubbles, no matter how small are signs of a larger problem unseen...think of it as the tip of an iceburg; most of the damage is unseen below. Cowls are a major area since the repair cost is greatest. Floors are an indication that the cowl is also bad. Look at all areas to the extent the owner will allow you to observe. TAKE YOUR TIME! If you start looking critically and the owner tries to distract you, know that the area you're intending to look at is likely problematic.

You'll never get to see all of the problems. What you want to do is get a good idea of the worth of the vehicle. You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear, so don't try. Pay a few dollars more for the better vehicle. Never get in a hurry to buy, TAKE YOUR TIME!