Fired her up. Long story.

Dbeck002

New Member
Apr 30, 2005
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South florida
Grab some powerade and read.







I recieved the heads and cam and all hardware/gaskets about 6 weeks ago. I began to disassemble and all was well. I labeled every bolt and took great care when it came to removing and unhooking. I Had all necessary tools, to scrape off gasket material, clean surfaces and assembly lube when needed.

Right when it came time to remove the timing cover and water pump, the upper left bolt that holds in the water pump (goes through the timing cover) had broken off. I was pissed. We tried carefully welding a nut on there and using a wrench. That just broke off whatever was left. This thing was rusted SOLID!! PB blaster didnt do sh1t either. Anyway we were forced to drill it out and helicoil it which is pretty nerve wracking. After that was out of the way I went on vacation out of the country for 3 weeks, the plan was to finish the assembly before i left but because of the helicoil that held me back a few days and i couldnt finish in time. Engine was all taken apart and exposed, that was stressful worrying about all the parts rusting while i was on vacation. I remembered to pour oil all over everything and wrap the bottom end up in saran wrap before i left.

When i return the hurricane hits and i cant work on the car. So i have to wait a few more days. After that i began working on the assembly and everything seems to go ok. Came time to bolt the valve covers on and one of the bolts i screwed in began crossthreading itself (aluminum heads). So I had to drill out the first 3 or 4 threads of the valve cover bolt with a 1/4" bit this way the good threads that are usable can be exposed. Yea drilling into your 1300 dollar heads feels great. After that took i assembled everything, manifold, AC, Rad, PS pump etc...

Today i go to crank her over and she starts up but wont idle well. Surges and wants to die. I'm thinking its a vacuum leak but i took apart the manifold and RTV'd everything up and it still does it.


Could it be timing? I'm so sick of problems i need a break. Why me. :owned:


EDIT: TPS is showing 0.9 volts and the IAC was cleaned a few months ago. New gaskets on the manifold and torqued it down good. RTV on the PCV valve too.

Timing might be off but that shouldnt cause a surge, what do you guys think?
 
MSD 8.5mm ignition wires
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
MSD 6AL Ignition Box
Auto specialties underdrive pulleys
Sabersport Cold Air Intake
K&N Air filter
73mm C&L MAF sensor
BBK 1-5/8" Long tube Headers
BBK Offroad H-pipe 2.5"
BBK 70mm Throttle Body and EGR Spacer
Flowmaster cat-back
Smog pump and pulley eliminated and skipped
Kirban Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator @ 42 PSI
180 degree performance thermostat
Summit Pro-Street Harmonic Balancer
Lakewood 50/50 rear drag shocks
3.73:1 Rear Gears
Mega Bite Jr. rear lower control arms
Granatelli Motorsports rear upper control arms
Electric Radiator Fan
Prothane Engine mounts
Energy suspension Transmission mount
Stage II ported Cobra Intake
Aluminum Driveshaft
Phenolic Heat spacer
24 lb/hr Ford motorsport injectors
255 Liter Per Hour Walbro fuel pump
Trickflow Stage 1 Cam
Comp Cams Timing Chain
AFR 165 heads
Ford racing hydraulic roller lifters
ARP head bolts and accesories bolts
Crane Blazer 1.6 Roller Rockers



She wont idle healthy. Surges and wants to die if i dont give her throttle. Vacuum lines seem to be all hooked up.
 
Our combos are similar. What is your FP set at now? I would think 42psi would be way to much. Remember, the computer has to learn the combo. Mine stalled in the middle of traffic on a 4 lane highway several times until it learned the combo.

When I had a C&L 73mm with 24# injectors, I ran rich.
 
32 connected. But there are more issues than just the fuel press. I cant turn her on now its late and she sounds like a semi with all the exhaust leaks. Dammit i dont want to have to wait till tomorrow. :notnice:


I could just close the garage door, nobody will hear anything! :nice:
 
Dbeck002 said:
32 connected. But there are more issues than just the fuel press. I cant turn her on now its late and she sounds like a semi with all the exhaust leaks. Dammit i dont want to have to wait till tomorrow. :notnice:


I could just close the garage door, nobody will hear anything! :nice:


...untill the exhaust puts to to sleep :rlaugh:
 
Fel pro gaskets for headers. the sample tube on the MAF is for 24s. thanks for the replies guys everything helps.



Deuce do you remember if turning the dizzy clockwise is increase timing? Im trying to remember.
 
Let's eliminate a vac leak. Spray some carb cleaner around the engine being careful not to spray the exhaust or other hot parts. It sure sounds like a MAF problem to me. Try to bring the crank to TDC on the compression stroke and restab the dist. MAKE SURE YOUR TIMING IS RIGHT!
 
Ok i cleaned the MAF. doesnt work.

I pulled the IAC plug. doesnt help, car just dies.

I adjusted the butterfly flap on the TB to be a hair open, still surges and dies.

Reset the battery, doesnt work.

Maybe i need to open up the butterfly more to get it idling better. My friend says because the cam isnt letting the engine get enough air, i should open the throttle plate morewith the screw. Is that normal though?

thanks for all the replies deuce.
 
I still say MAF. Try to drive it a litlle bit. It will die on you. The computer needs to learn new peramaters of every driving situation before it can react to driving conditions. Try to drive it for a little bit.

Where are you located? If anywhere near Central NY we could try switching MAF sensors to try to eliminate a MAF problem.
 
Computer needs to learn to idle with the existing combo. To make it easier for me I set the timing at 12DEG, FP at 40 (vac line off), and checked SEVERAL times for vacuum leaks. If memory serves me correct, I had to set the idle a 4 times before it took OK at around 850-900..no lower, no higher.