First impressions after H/C/I swap on my 2001 GT

lopey4.6 · Nov 5, 2004

Hello,
Finally got everything back together today. Total down time was about 3 months. Before the tear down I was running Comp Cams 270's, BBK longtubes, BBK O/R X, C&L meter, weld in mufflers, 4:10's, aluminum drive shaft and a flip chip from Kauffman's Motorsports. The car made 278 rwhp and 296 rwtq on a dyno jet standard corrected. These are the items I added: Comp Cams XE274's, port and polish heads with a valve job with Manley oversized valves from a local enguine builder (flow numbers are 216 intake and 190 exaust at .500 lift), Comp beehive springs, Bullitt intake, BBK twin 62mm TB, Meziere electric water pump, Prothane engine mounts, Aeromotive fuel rails and 6 AN braided line, custom cold air kit, ARP head stud kit, Fel-Pro head gaskets, Percy's aluminum header gaskets, stage 8 locking bolts, BBK under drive pullies, and I'm reusing the autoligic flip chip. I have 30 lb injectors and a Aviator pump wainting to go in as soon as I empty the tank. Also I have the nitrous set up for a 165-185 shot when I go in for a retune.

Initial start up was good. There was a light knocking sound from the passenger valve cover but went away after a wfew minutes. Probably just a lifter that had to pump. Cam timing is right on the first time (that was a big worry for me), no fluid leaks, no exaust leaks. Except for my passenger cat back is rubbing a little on the unibody rail. there was a little vacume leak that I fixed and it idles perfect. very choppy idle and the whole car shakes because of the engine mounts. So I let it warm up. and did some light driving around town. Car never died once, engine always settled down to a nice idle at every stop. At part throttle cruising and acceleration the car pulled nice and smooth, no jerking or hesatation. Now at WOT the car pulles like a mutha. it's noticably faster from about 3500 rpm on up.The car sounds different, pulls way harder and the exaust now has a snap, crackle, pop to it.The car really feels like it's in the 330-340 rwhp range. But only the Dyno will tell.

This is the first time I have ever really dug into an engine by myself and it looks like everything is a success so far. Can't wait to see what it puts down with a 165 shot. Old 100 shot numbers were 380 rwhp and 504 rwtq.

nickthegenius · Nov 5, 2004

You're a far braver soul than I. I would have babied it until it was tuned, but maybe thats just because of my experience after the cam install as my car was mega-lean.

Your car should be a real monster with your mods. I'd bet you have at least 320hp and with the nitrous it should really rip with the better breathing heads/intake setup.

BTW, how bad of a job is removing/re-installing the heads in these tight engine bays? I'm wanting to ship my heads off to Steen for a P/P job and the only thing that worries me is that it will be a complete PITA due to the tight working area. I'm wanting to get over the 300hp mark next spring

lopey4.6 said:
Hello,
Finally got everything back together today. Total down time was about 3 months. Before the tear down I was running Comp Cams 270's, BBK longtubes, BBK O/R X, C&L meter, weld in mufflers, 4:10's, aluminum drive shaft and a flip chip from Kauffman's Motorsports. The car made 278 rwhp and 296 rwtq on a dyno jet standard corrected. These are the items I added: Comp Cams XE274's, port and polish heads with a valve job with Manley oversized valves from a local enguine builder (flow numbers are 216 intake and 190 exaust at .500 lift), Comp beehive springs, Bullitt intake, BBK twin 62mm TB, Meziere electric water pump, Prothane engine mounts, Aeromotive fuel rails and 6 AN braided line, custom cold air kit, ARP head stud kit, Fel-Pro head gaskets, Percy's aluminum header gaskets, stage 8 locking bolts, BBK under drive pullies, and I'm reusing the autoligic flip chip. I have 30 lb injectors and a Aviator pump wainting to go in as soon as I empty the tank. Also I have the nitrous set up for a 165-185 shot when I go in for a retune.

Initial start up was good. There was a light knocking sound from the passenger valve cover but went away after a wfew minutes. Probably just a lifter that had to pump. Cam timing is right on the first time (that was a big worry for me), no fluid leaks, no exaust leaks. Except for my passenger cat back is rubbing a little on the unibody rail. there was a little vacume leak that I fixed and it idles perfect. very choppy idle and the whole car shakes because of the engine mounts. So I let it warm up. and did some light driving around town. Car never died once, engine always settled down to a nice idle at every stop. At part throttle cruising and acceleration the car pulled nice and smooth, no jerking or hesatation. Now at WOT the car pulles like a mutha. it's noticably faster from about 3500 rpm on up.The car sounds different, pulls way harder and the exaust now has a snap, crackle, pop to it.The car really feels like it's in the 330-340 rwhp range. But only the Dyno will tell.

This is the first time I have ever really dug into an engine by myself and it looks like everything is a success so far. Can't wait to see what it puts down with a 165 shot. Old 100 shot numbers were 380 rwhp and 504 rwtq.

lopey4.6 · Nov 5, 2004

It's a little bit of a pain but I managed ok doing it by myself. Believe me I'll baby this car until it's tuned.

First impressions after H/C/I swap on my 2001 GT

lopey4.6

nickthegenius

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lopey4.6

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First impressions after H/C/I swap on my 2001 GT

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