First oil change! What type?
- Thread starter Sonic04GT
- Start date
deftsound
Please ask me how much my supercharger cost
The oil really isn't going to matter. Just try and pick something and run with it. I run Valvoline because that's what we have always used in all our farm trucks, personal vehicles, and because that's what Mark Martin used to have on the side of his car.But Valvoline does have a "300,000 mile engine guarantee" or something like that that might be worth checking on. I run the 5W-30 weight for the same reason Mustang5L5 mentioned, and I run the full synthetic just because that's the "accepted" thing to do with higher mileage Mustangs, even though it's probably not necessary.
The filter does matter; Motorcraft FL820-S is the only one you should ever run in your car.
+1. My dad is always picking on me about running full synthetic because his old E-150 work van has run conventional for almost 20 years now, and has nearly 600,000 miles on the stock motor. We have several farm trucks that have been beaten to death over the last 15-20 years with 250,000+ miles that have always had conventional oil.
I'll go one step further and say that the regularity you change your oil and filter is a whole helluva lot more important than what brand oil and filter you use....
Probably more true than not. But Motorcraft oil and filter is hardly big money.
**
As far as draining the oil, I use a pair of scrap 2x4 or 2x8's thrown down in front of the ramps to give the bumper enough clearance. I know the dealer drains it level, but with where drain bolt is, lifting the front won't change anything. So jacking up the front on both sides and using jack stands would be fine, IMHO.
Funny thing is that when I do it myself, I spend ~$30 anyway, since I won't shop at Walmart lol.
Well I swung by Walmart and they had the filter for $3.67 but no Motorcraft oil.
They had 5 quarts of Castrol GTX for 13.50, Valvoline for 15.50, and Mobil Super for $11.50. I don't have ramps and most jacks won't clear my subframes without jacking it up a couple inches with the factory scissor jack first...
For the price difference, I think it's easier to just take it to Ford and spend the $30. Looking at about $10 for labor.
They had 5 quarts of Castrol GTX for 13.50, Valvoline for 15.50, and Mobil Super for $11.50. I don't have ramps and most jacks won't clear my subframes without jacking it up a couple inches with the factory scissor jack first...
For the price difference, I think it's easier to just take it to Ford and spend the $30. Looking at about $10 for labor.
johnnyt03gt
5 Year Member
You living in Dallas... I couldn't disagree...
While I was living in Vegas during the summers I would put in a 20w50 or something like that...
You living in Dallas... I couldn't disagree...
While I was living in Vegas during the summers I would put in a 20w50 or something like that...
There is absolutely no need for this and you're probably doing more harm than good. If you have a cooling system that functions properly 5W-30 is all you'll need.
You should all read this:
Introduction to Motor Oil
deftsound
Please ask me how much my supercharger cost
johnnyt03gt
5 Year Member
i've had over 20 vehicles in my lifetime... and on new OR low mileage cars. i would always use 5w30 and on older cars with higher mileage, like my current GT. i use 10w40 summer and 10w30 winter. never every hand internal engine issues,
i've had over 20 vehicles in my lifetime... and on new OR low mileage cars. i would always use 5w30 and on older cars with higher mileage, like my current GT. i use 10w40 summer and 10w30 winter. never every hand internal engine issues,
You can do whatever you want and I'm not necessarily saying you'll have internal engine problems using a thicker oil. That said you'll have more power and obtain better gas mileage using a 5W-20 oil year round and will have absolutely no difference in engine longevity assuming regular oil change intervals and maintaining a full crankcase between changes.
I'm sure they are, which is basically what I would put in it from Walmart anyway. I'm just paying $10 to avoid putting the car on jackstands, disposing of oil and cleaning up a mess.
That's a damn good deal. Fortunately I don't drive the stang much so I only have to change it once in the spring and once in the fall, but if it were my daily I'd certainly consider taking it to the dealer. Plus it's always fun to have the dealership guys drooling over how nice my car is and how good she sounds
I've been running 5w30 in my car year round since I moved back to Colorado in '05. Vegas was HOT though!
I don't like any dealership or express lube places touching my car. There is always something messed up after they get their hands on my pony. I enjoy changing my oil and disposing of it at the auto parts store for free.
I don't like any dealership or express lube places touching my car. There is always something messed up after they get their hands on my pony. I enjoy changing my oil and disposing of it at the auto parts store for free.
Their ain't nothing to it
Motrocraft filter is probably your best bet....as far as oil goes just go with a decent brand, I have never heard of a motor failing because someone used brand A as opposed to brand B, I will use synthetic when I find some on sale..other than that whats the point...because all that high priced oil these people on this forum buy is eventually coming right back out of the car.
Just remember to hand tighten your oil filter don't use that tool to tighten it.
Motrocraft filter is probably your best bet....as far as oil goes just go with a decent brand, I have never heard of a motor failing because someone used brand A as opposed to brand B, I will use synthetic when I find some on sale..other than that whats the point...because all that high priced oil these people on this forum buy is eventually coming right back out of the car.
Just remember to hand tighten your oil filter don't use that tool to tighten it.
Haha N8Dogg I'm kind of the same way. I think it's moderately amusing to hand my car over to the dealer for a short period and getting to hear it from the outside as they drive it around to the garage. I figure ill pay about $20 in supplies anyway, what's another $10 to save myself the pain of using 2 jacks plus stands to get my car off the ground, then cleaning up and disposing of oil.
I found synthetic MC at walmart so I guess it would be worth it in that aspect but no point in spending $20 on synthetic plus filter only to switch back to dealer oil when I drive the 1300 miles home next month.
Going to take it to ford tomorrow.
I found synthetic MC at walmart so I guess it would be worth it in that aspect but no point in spending $20 on synthetic plus filter only to switch back to dealer oil when I drive the 1300 miles home next month.
Going to take it to ford tomorrow.
Well so much for going to the dealership anymore, at least here in Cent Texas. What used to cost ~$30-32 now cost me $42.58 out the door. Ridiculous, I could have put synthetic in for half the price.
Filter F1AZ-6731-BE $7.64
QTY 6 - XO-5W20-BSP @ $3.89 each = $23.34
Total labor - $7.50
However, they do the multi-point inspection which is nice. They wanted to rotate the tires, which for me and most everyone else would require dismounting the tires since they are directional, and the front/rear are different sizes.
AND, the real concern....they claim to have found a small leak from the right rear axle seal. They cleaned it up and want to re-inspect it at the next oil change.
Is this a big deal and how easy is it to check/repair myself? Driving 1,300 miles home in a couple weeks.
Is it pretty obvious if I pull the wheel off and look around or would I need to pull the caliper/rotor off?
They filled my washer fluid woo!
Edit - I'll have to look over my paperwork again when I get home and see what they have been putting in the car because it appears they used synthetic this time, hence the higher price probably.
XO-5W20-BSP SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (bulk)
Filter F1AZ-6731-BE $7.64
QTY 6 - XO-5W20-BSP @ $3.89 each = $23.34
Total labor - $7.50
However, they do the multi-point inspection which is nice. They wanted to rotate the tires, which for me and most everyone else would require dismounting the tires since they are directional, and the front/rear are different sizes.
AND, the real concern....they claim to have found a small leak from the right rear axle seal. They cleaned it up and want to re-inspect it at the next oil change.
Is this a big deal and how easy is it to check/repair myself? Driving 1,300 miles home in a couple weeks.
Is it pretty obvious if I pull the wheel off and look around or would I need to pull the caliper/rotor off?
They filled my washer fluid woo!
Edit - I'll have to look over my paperwork again when I get home and see what they have been putting in the car because it appears they used synthetic this time, hence the higher price probably.
XO-5W20-BSP SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (bulk)
IIGood
Founding Member
They used the synthetic *blend* which is not full synthetic. The blend is the same Motorcraft stuff you would get at the parts store. Full synthetic would cost even more, especially at the dealership.
Similar threads
