First time at track, poor ETs

z9_87 · May 7, 2005

Well last night was my first night at the track and I exected to run better. So I figured I'd ask some help from you guys here. I have an AOD w/ 3000 stall. I put it in first and launched at about 2k rpms. There's no chirp from the tires at that rpm but I never went much higher because I'm running everyday street tires. Below are a couple of the runs I made and my mods are in my sig. The wierdest thing was as I lowered my R/T my ET raised.

Best Run:
R/T: .196
60': 2.233
330: 6.474
1/8: 9.908
MPH: 70.51
1000: 12.956
1/4: 15.540
MPH 87.29

Best R/T run:
R/T: .044
60': 2.281
330: 6.575
1/8: 10.034
MPH: 70.41
1000: 13.102
1/4: 15.710
MPH: 86.41

Best MPH Run:
R/T: .348
60': 2.246
330: 6.574
1/8: 10.130
MPH: 70.07
1000: 13.129
1/4: 15.642
MPH: 89.40

The biggest problem I had was I could hold 1st but it switched from second to third so fast it basically went 1->3. I didn't do the 1D1 shuffle because I didn't want to beat up my tranny that bad. What do you guys see as my biggest weak point?

70lightning · May 7, 2005

A shift kit, and what rear gears are you running, what does the car weigh?

z9_87 · May 7, 2005

70lightning said:
A shift kit, and what rear gears are you running, what does the car weigh?

3.23's in back and the car weighs 3536lbs.

notchback · May 7, 2005

z9_87 said:
The wierdest thing was as I lowered my R/T my ET raised.

What do you guys see as my biggest weak point?

biggest weak point = AOD

don't worry about your reaction time...it's all about 60' and shift points

notice your best et was also the best 60'

your best mph was your worst 60'

nothing you can do about the 1-3 shifting aod...you need a manual valve body so you can manually shift.

the converter is good to go, and w/ some stickies...you can improve a couple more tenths, due to launching.

shift kit won't do much for et but will oil your tranny better.

traction traction traction...then get gears..then get more traction

70lightning · May 7, 2005

At that weight and stall I say gears will really improve the times.

z9_87 · May 7, 2005

Shouldn't it still be better though? Also, I have traction on the launch, just not if I go up to 3krpms.
Also manual valve body? As in 1=1 D=2 OD=3/4?

90mustangGT · May 7, 2005

I think you know your problem. You have a heavy car, with a highway gear, launching on street tires, and skipping a gear. With all that considered, your times weren't that bad at all. A shift kit, 4.10 gear, and some drag radials would make a world of difference. Better yet, manual valve body, 4.30 gear, and some slicks and it would really shine. All depending on how hardcore you want to go.

70lightning · May 7, 2005

90mustangGT said:
I think you know your problem. You have a heavy car, with a highway gear, launching on street tires, and skipping a gear. With all that considered, your times weren't that bad at all. A shift kit, 4.10 gear, and some drag radials would make a world of difference. Better yet, manual valve body, 4.30 gear, and some slicks and it would really shine. All depending on how hardcore you want to go.

Without a shift kit most AOD's shift out at like 4500 rpm, with harder shifts and gears to get that thing off the line the E.T. will drop.

z9_87 · May 8, 2005

For now I can't do gears, I need to drive it long distances this summer. I was thinking about getting some drag radials and was looking into shift kit or the manual valve body when I put the engine back in but never really gave a lot of thought. One question on the manual valve body is what will the numbers and letters on my shifter corrolate to? 1=1 d=2 OD=3? What about 4th?

notchback · May 8, 2005

4th won't shift til your not wot anymore

z9_87 · May 8, 2005

I'm reading up on the manual valve bodies right now. It seems they have semi-manual valve bodies that let you still have an automatic transmission if you leave it in drive. They're not all that pricy i guess, summit has one for $190 by TCI. Are they hard to install? I've never torn apart a transmission before. Would you reccomend me doing it, the instructions don't seem to hard.

90mustangGT · May 9, 2005

z9_87 said:
I'm reading up on the manual valve bodies right now. It seems they have semi-manual valve bodies that let you still have an automatic transmission if you leave it in drive. They're not all that pricy i guess, summit has one for $190 by TCI. Are they hard to install? I've never torn apart a transmission before. Would you reccomend me doing it, the instructions don't seem to hard.

Well, yes and no. Valve bodies bolt on and off like a trans pan but there are check balls and gaskets you have to make sure line up just so, and don't get any dirt in there.

Modular2v · May 9, 2005

i did my shift kit im my aod (my aod is for sale by the way) and it was easy

hrspwrjunkie · May 9, 2005

Assuming you have a stock engine in the car (nothing to change high rev power) and the stock-height tires, the best combo to optimize your drivetrain would be a Lentech AOD and a set of 4.10 gears. But be advised, 4.10s will make her a bit squirrley with 225 wide tires. You may want to opt for a 17"x8" wheel with high quality, factory-height 245/45/17 tires.

BrokeMustangGuy · May 9, 2005

manual valve body, slicks, gears,oh and one more thing........spray that biotch.

z2o_what · May 9, 2005

just out of curiosity, Is your car faster now than when it had the 3.8sc?

z9_87 · May 9, 2005

z2o_what said:
just out of curiosity, Is your car faster now than when it had the 3.8sc?

Slightly I don't know what's up with that. Although, I did have the coil go out as I was driving down the road yesterday, thing is band new.

On the lentech, I think i'd opt for a 5spd if i was going to do a new transmission. I'm thinking slicks and a shift kit for now, hopping that picks up the times. I'm going to have it dynoed before I go back also. I'll probably get some more answers there if it isn't putting that much power to the ground.

z9_87 · May 9, 2005

I did a 1/4 estimator and a HP estimator. At 3716lbs w/ driver and a 89.4 trap the car is said to have approx 207HP. That's unbelievable. All my mods and 207hp. I'm going to the dyno this week now.
Also if I was making 250HP it estimates a 14.32ET. Now I know it's an estimator and it can be off, but by this much?

everynameistake · May 10, 2005

z9_87 said:
I did a 1/4 estimator and a HP estimator. At 3716lbs w/ driver and a 89.4 trap the car is said to have approx 207HP. That's unbelievable. All my mods and 207hp. I'm going to the dyno this week now.
Also if I was making 250HP it estimates a 14.32ET. Now I know it's an estimator and it can be off, but by this much?

**** i have close to the same mods - heads. but more bolt ons and im running 13.0 on street tires at full psi. im also t5 and lighter. but you should be running faster then that. i would say its not running right. thats just me

hrspwrjunkie · May 10, 2005

Gearing, shifting and traction have a lot to do with how fast the car will run...if that wasn't in the equation of the similator, then it could be way off. As far as output goes, it should be higher than that, however, if there's something amiss in your combination (in tune, combo or assembly) then you could have a lack of power.

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