Fitment, FMS tall valve covers on 94/95 stangs

zenboy99

Founding Member
May 12, 2002
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47
Madison, WI
I'm trying to line these things up on my car. With my Systemax intake and a 1" spacer I have plenty of clearance on the intake. It looks like I'll have to cut the heater hoses shorter on the firewall, but the valve cover hits the alternator pretty good. Before I go cutting away on these $100 things, what did you guys do to get them to fit? Grind the alternator bolt down? Space the alternator out farther?

Any pics/ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chad
 
I am not too familure witht he FMS ones, I think vib or rio has them though.

On the alt. issue with my fox covers I found that getting the bracket loose (more work than grinding the alt.) and then installing the VC the alt. would clear after the VC was bolted down. The angle of the VC on the front (of the motor) gave it enough room to clear. Again it was kind of a PITA over just grinding the alt. but it fit without cutting anything :shrug:
 
On mine, I took the alternator apart and rotated the back part of it until it fit. I think the center part of the alt may still be touching, but it's not enough to hurt anything.
 
On mine, I took the alternator apart and rotated the back part of it until it fit. I think the center part of the alt may still be touching, but it's not enough to hurt anything.

What do you mean by twist the back of the alternator around? I removed the 3 rear bolts from the alternator, but there's no way to rotate the back piece without rewiring the whole alternator
 
how much is it hitting? if it isn't by much you might be able to get away with spacing it out with a washer or two. not too much to affect the belt, but enough to get the VC to fit without grinding.
 
Either the front or rear half of the alternator can be rotated. Here's how I have mine, http://mustangaddiction.com/418/100_0648.JPG

Thanks for the pic, I have an aftermarket alternator, maybe mine can't be rotated? :shrug:

The alternator just hits on the plastic connection on back. My belt is already riding on the edge of the tensioner so I'm scared to space it out too far. I could put spacers between the mounting bracket and head, but I can't get that off.
 
Chad

I did not really want to grind, cut, or weld on my Fox VC's
when I saw I needed a little bit of room.

I also did not wanna cut down my alt electrical connection post either.

I found the space I needed with one .080 washer next to the block
on each of the three mounting bolts
which shimmed the alt out by that tiny amount.

Been running it like that since 2002 with no probs.

Grady
 
Chad

I did not really want to grind, cut, or weld on my Fox VC's
when I saw I needed a little bit of room.

I also did not wanna cut down my alt electrical connection post either.

I found the space I needed with one .080 washer next to the block
on each of the three mounting bolts
which shimmed the alt out by that tiny amount.

Been running it like that since 2002 with no probs.

Grady

That would be the best to shim it against the head, but how do you get the bolt out behind the tensioner?
 
That would be the best to shim it against the head, but how do you get the bolt out behind the tensioner?

Sorry Chad

Its been too long for me to remember :bang:
and
relate to what you are talking about

I don't remember doing anything to the tensioner :shrug:

The best I can remember it all ..............

The tensioner is held on to the accessory bracket with one
of those star head bolts and it is bolted on to that bracket

After the tensioner is removed you have access to remove
the bracket.

If I did not remember correctly ... Someone set me straight :rlaugh:
and
Help Chad out with this :nice:

Grady