the problem is idle mixture.
i had this problem until yesterday with the 5.4.
i added a little fuel pressure and the idle mixture was richer to the point it idled down and smooth. to check it remove a small vacuum port and if the idle gets worse look to idle mixture as the problem. how you are going to fix it for 99+, maybe look to a vacuum source to eliminate. but idle mixture was my hanging idle fix.
i suspect it is the problem with aftermarket elbows also.
i had this problem until yesterday with the 5.4.
i added a little fuel pressure and the idle mixture was richer to the point it idled down and smooth. to check it remove a small vacuum port and if the idle gets worse look to idle mixture as the problem. how you are going to fix it for 99+, maybe look to a vacuum source to eliminate. but idle mixture was my hanging idle fix.
i suspect it is the problem with aftermarket elbows also.
Theres a couple people selling them on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/03-0...33553QQitemZ8032305936QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Or do the copper cap mod. Get a 1/2 inch copper cap, drill a hole in it and put it in the rubber hose.
Or do the copper cap mod. Get a 1/2 inch copper cap, drill a hole in it and put it in the rubber hose.
Contact Stangnet Member 34ford, he makes them.98blackstallion said:
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=470711&highlight=34ford
Well i did the copper cap mod and drilled a 3/16" hole in it first and put it in. Well then it didnt want to idle or anything so I enlarged it some more and I had to keep doing this for another 4 sizes up and then it started to work better. Maybe its because my car needs a tune? I have a full bolt on (minus plenum and TB) and stage 1 VT cams and still have the stockish tune. SO that might be my problem i will try it again after my dyno run next month.
Another bump for an old thread for new guys..
I just made one of these puppies up today, and installed it. Both were a breeze.
I borrowed a piece of brass stock from work, and removed the IAC. One wire harness, one hose, 2 5/16" bolts.
Removed the gasket and the IAC assembly. Laid the gasket down on to the brass stock, and traced the outside and the 2 big holes with a magic marker. Used a scribe to trace the bolt holes.
Used tin snips to cut the shape. Used different sized drill bits until I find one that was the right size for the bolts to fit through. Used a dremel with a metal spiral shaped bit to cut out one of the middle holes. I kept matching it up with the IAC to make sure the hole I cut was bigger than the IAC hole.
Last fabricating step was drilling a 9/32 hole in the center of the other marked hole, and using a wire brush attachment on my dremel to clean up all the burrs. I threw it all back on, from front of car to back is IAC->plate->gasket->TB. I think perhaps I'll pick up another IAC gasket and put it between the IAC and the plate just to be sure.
Impressions:
Fired it up to be sure it worked. Ran fine. Turned blower to max, then switched to MAX A/C. Slight dip in idle as usual, but no stalling. Turned blower off. Switched to defrost and used max blower. Same dip in idle, no stalling. Rev'd to around 3k and let off. WOW. What a difference. Idle drops faster, but not annoyingly fast. Took it for a quick drive down the street, and noticed idle drops a lot nicer between shifts (not surprised since that was the whole point.) That "popping" when you let off I would call "cackling" instead. I noticed the delay from when you let off the throttle to when engine braking occurs is much less.. used to take 3 or 4 full seconds before I got full engine braking.. now it's easily less than 1/2 second.
I'm still not sure about using brass, but now that I know how to do it, I may find some aluminum and use that instead.
Great mod, took less than 30 minutes from start to finish, and cost me nothing.
Thank goodness for whoever thought of this.
I just made one of these puppies up today, and installed it. Both were a breeze.
I borrowed a piece of brass stock from work, and removed the IAC. One wire harness, one hose, 2 5/16" bolts.
Removed the gasket and the IAC assembly. Laid the gasket down on to the brass stock, and traced the outside and the 2 big holes with a magic marker. Used a scribe to trace the bolt holes.
Used tin snips to cut the shape. Used different sized drill bits until I find one that was the right size for the bolts to fit through. Used a dremel with a metal spiral shaped bit to cut out one of the middle holes. I kept matching it up with the IAC to make sure the hole I cut was bigger than the IAC hole.
Last fabricating step was drilling a 9/32 hole in the center of the other marked hole, and using a wire brush attachment on my dremel to clean up all the burrs. I threw it all back on, from front of car to back is IAC->plate->gasket->TB. I think perhaps I'll pick up another IAC gasket and put it between the IAC and the plate just to be sure.
Impressions:
Fired it up to be sure it worked. Ran fine. Turned blower to max, then switched to MAX A/C. Slight dip in idle as usual, but no stalling. Turned blower off. Switched to defrost and used max blower. Same dip in idle, no stalling. Rev'd to around 3k and let off. WOW. What a difference. Idle drops faster, but not annoyingly fast. Took it for a quick drive down the street, and noticed idle drops a lot nicer between shifts (not surprised since that was the whole point.) That "popping" when you let off I would call "cackling" instead. I noticed the delay from when you let off the throttle to when engine braking occurs is much less.. used to take 3 or 4 full seconds before I got full engine braking.. now it's easily less than 1/2 second.
I'm still not sure about using brass, but now that I know how to do it, I may find some aluminum and use that instead.
Great mod, took less than 30 minutes from start to finish, and cost me nothing.
Thank goodness for whoever thought of this.
I recently took mine out because it started to bug me. The rpm's would drop too fast from time to time then it would make it harder to shift smoothly. The rpms would drop down to 1500 and i'd have to ease out the clutch really slowly to not bounce it a little. It started to get really annoying. Having the rpm's "hang" for just a second allows a much smoother transfer through the gears, I noticed.
I never noticed any "improvment" by this mod, beside the deceleration was slightly improved at certain rpm ranges, and the noise of it when decelerating.
I never noticed any "improvment" by this mod, beside the deceleration was slightly improved at certain rpm ranges, and the noise of it when decelerating.
WillDuhhBeast said:
I totally agree....I took mine out for the reason that my RPMS would drop so fast that when i would release the clutch I would hear a pop or something like that coming from my tranny. Took it off and my shifts were alot smother and no more popping. Loved the snap crakel and pop but dont want to damage anything. Just in case.
Awesome... just returned from Iraq again and this thread is still alive. I quit making these for awhile because of the new job in Balad Iraq. I'll make a bunch when I get back "over there" and will sell them again. And I will sell them cheaper than anyone.... with free shipping.
Oh yeah.... Finally got a Paxton Novi 2000 Mongoose kit in my Bullitt from MPH.
Oh yeah.... Finally got a Paxton Novi 2000 Mongoose kit in my Bullitt from MPH.
Just thought I'd throw my five cents in here. I read this thread and liked the idea. I was going to replace my IAC since I suspected it was causing a stall issue now and then and figured I'd add this plate while I'm at it. I made a simple plate from a sheet of aluminum I had left over from another plate I once made for a different car to block off the EGR. My hole was a little smaller, turns out I didn't have the right drill size out of all the bits I've got. Once installed I had a high idle. It would vary between 1200-1500, which helped the AC and electrical with my underdrive pullies, but still annoying running so high. Everything seemed tight so it didn't seem like a leak past the plate. From what I've read with a smaller hole than mentioned here, I should have more of a stalling problem than high idle. The car did feel a lot more responsive and I loved the tougher sound of the popping. I intended to open the hole up a bit, but ran it "as is" for about two weeks when my Service Engine light came on. This past weekend I pulled the plate and reset the light by disconnecting the battery and right now all seems normal. Back to the standard idle, but now that I drove for a while the other way, I really miss the popping and the responsiveness. I now notice the idle staying high too. I don't recall it hanging this long before. This could be because the old IAC wasn't working right anyway and/or I just never paid that much attention to it. I've thought about trying the Mr. Gasket one on eBay, but figured an actual metal plate might be a better and more durable solution. Are you guys still putting a gasket on both sides of this plate, or just IAC/plate/TB? For now I'll see if my Service light stays off, or if I have another issue going on, and then probably buy one of the plates sold here when they are available again.
Here's an idea for those making this. How about a screw or something in the side of the plate that extends into the hole. Then while installed if our idle is too low or high, we can simply turn the screw to open or close the hole some until idle become normal.
Here's an idea for those making this. How about a screw or something in the side of the plate that extends into the hole. Then while installed if our idle is too low or high, we can simply turn the screw to open or close the hole some until idle become normal.