I just had to drop my tank because a wire broke off my fuel pump and now the car won't boost well at all. It cuts off as soon as I get into boost. I installed a new fuel filter while i was at it. It seems to only do this when hot. I tried a new TFI module to no avail. It's hard to start as always but now won't run well in boost when hot. I used seam sealer on the fuel sender and pump holes so they didn't leak. Think it could have clogged the screen?
Fixed wire on fuel pump now car runs terrible.
- Thread starter mooktank
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srothfuss
Last night I stabbed the same guy 7 times in a row
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
I don't know if you can put a fuel filter in backwards, but you might look into that...although it does say pretty obviously which directly it's supposed to go.
Are you sure your wires are connected securely?
There's a possibility that it could be low fuel pressure...do you know what your fuel pressure is? Idle fuel pressure might not be as good as fuel pressure when you hit boost since that's when your problem occurs, so that could be a problem if you don't have an in car fuel pressure gauge. I'd see what the other guys think, though.
So it's fine outside of boost, but once you hit boost, you notice it?
Are you sure your wires are connected securely?
There's a possibility that it could be low fuel pressure...do you know what your fuel pressure is? Idle fuel pressure might not be as good as fuel pressure when you hit boost since that's when your problem occurs, so that could be a problem if you don't have an in car fuel pressure gauge. I'd see what the other guys think, though.
So it's fine outside of boost, but once you hit boost, you notice it?
as it gets hotter, it gets worse and will sometimes do it at idle. My battery went dead last night. Know why? My computer is not shutting off. My PMS handheld unit is always on. And the "low fuel" light is always on. I don't think it's the ignition switch since everything else is turning on fine.
A latched EEC relay can keep engine management circuits full of juice when the key is off (not sure if that could be happening here - I did not really follow what is happening. Just info).
Good luck.
Good luck.
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