Flaming Mustang

Couple deas / considerations

1) Are you running a chip or some other aftermarket EEC tuner ?
If so, include in your signature for future reference.
What are you using ?

2) FP should be set to 39 with the vacuum line disconnected from the rail

3) Timing should be set to 10 BTDC with the SPOUT plug removed.

4) Was the MAF calibrated work with your 24# injectors ?




I like your setup...

Cam location doesnt have anything to do with finding base timing. Timing is based on crankshaft position.

You need to explain what you mean when you say you cant find base timing. Are you saying you cant set it at 10° base?

Back to the initial subject matter of your message:

- You'll really want/need to understand what your vacuum readings are before you start changing other items/settings. This is a common problem with idling issues and if you begin changing other settings, you could dig yourself a deeper hole (i.e. more problems)

- If you know what you're doing, the distributor can be removed and reinstalled in order to provide more room for movement in order to set your initial timing to 10 BTDC.

- Ask the mechanic if he installed that cam in any way aside from the standard dot/alignment method.
If you cannot obtain this information, I would be inclined to pull the timing chain cover and
perform a visual inspection.
My concern, as a consequence of your high Compression ration, is that the
engine builder/mechanic advanced the cam upon installation.

- liljoe07 is accurate in saying TDC is set with the crank position.
It's physically set by removing #1 cylinder plug and finding TDC, then backing to 10 BTDC.
The next step is to use a timing light with the SPOUT plug removed and ensuring that you're
at 10 BTDC. This is how "base" timing is setup.

- With your Compression ratio, you will not be able to recognize the full power potential of a supercharger. In fact, you're going to have some challenges in a setup that will ensure the longevity of your engine (i.e. mitigate detonation).

- The stock EEC is hardwired to know the engine is a 302, 19# injectors, stock cam, MAF, etc. When subtle changes to the engine are made, the EEC attempts and is often successful in adding power. The EEC takes queues from the HEGOs and attempts to meet a 14.64AFR (non-WOT). The challenge I see in your case is that your changes are not subtle. With this said, the best way to maximize the potential of what you currently have is to provide some means to override the standard EEC settings.
Here is a simple list of options:

#1 - Most often, people will spend 100's of dollars for a Dyno-tune.
This solution is popular with people who do not plan additional/future changes

If this case, you want to have a guy that will tune throughout the entire power range...
to simulate normal driving conditions.

Less qualified/interested shops, will only tune your engine for WOT. So, unless you plan to race
full-time, you will not be happy with a WOT tune.
(Look up "Closed vs Open Loop" operations for more information)

#2 - Another option is getting a mail-ordered chip.
This is where a shop takes your changes into consideration and based upon their experience, burn
a chip that will plug into the J3 service port of your EEC.
If you're going to spend $$ to recognize the potential of your setup, this would be my last
consideration.

#3 - Purchase your own tuning Hardware & software such as Anderson Motorsports, Tweecer,
or Moates QH. Using any of these tools will require that you learn more about
the Ford fuel injection system and it's components all work together.
The benefit of this solution is that you won't have to spend $$$ for a new chip-burn when
you make additional changes in the future. You are the master of your domain.
Do your homework when considering these options so you fully understand all the components
you may need to adequately perform the function of tuning. (EECTuning.org • Index page)



OK... that was a mouthful.... now get your vacuum readings.

-D