Ok, so today I decided to take out my passenger seat, and back seats because I have to restore the whole passenger-side floor pan. I am the 6th owner of this mustang. The 3rd owner had the brilliant idea of hooking up an active battery behind the passenger seat and put the car aside for a while not realizing that the passenger-side was lying in a puddle of water which rotted out the whole passenger-side floor pan. When I bought the car, the battery was under the hood where it should be and I knew what I was taking on, but I figure I wasn't going to let a job like a floor pan get in the way of enjoying my mustang. Anyway, I figured today, no big deal, got out of school at 2:40, came home and went to work on the stang with a friend trying to take out the seats to get it set for the floor pan. Well, now, the seat won't come out, the front right bolt came right off, I was saying to myself, OK we are getting somewhere, on to bolt #2, left front, its spinning, but the threads are all chewed up, now I have to jack the car up to get it out. Onto the back bolts, they won't come out because it is so rusted back there, that they won't turn, so now I am going to have either get a Saw and cut the seat out or get my cousin to get his welding torch and do it that way. Now, I am going to need a new bracket for the seat or a piece of metal to attach the seat to and make wholes for new bolts. I am so mad right now, it was supposed to go smooth today, so tomorrow I could take the rug out, then Sunday weld the new floor pan in. Now I don't know what I am going to do. I needed to vent for a while. What do you think I should do? or How do you you guys think I should go about getting the seat out?
Floor Problems
- Thread starter StreetStang302
- Start date
rd
Founding Member
If memory serves me right, the mounting bolts are studs. Cut the nuts off, or sawzall the stud/bolt under the bracket if you can, or torch the nuts.
You can replace the rear ones with much longer bolts from the bottom up. I had to bolt in a piece of 1/8 flat bar and new bolt for on front one, because the part of the bracket with the bolt cracked and came out.
Not too hard and somewhat common.
You can replace the rear ones with much longer bolts from the bottom up. I had to bolt in a piece of 1/8 flat bar and new bolt for on front one, because the part of the bracket with the bolt cracked and came out.
Not too hard and somewhat common.
rd said:
That is what my friend said to do. Thanx a lot for the feedback rd. It is the back two studs/bolts that are rusted in. I wasn't sure if I shoud sawzall them or torch them? What do you suggest I do? I am going to need a new bracket or piece of metal to put in there to make new holes for the studs/bolts. The threads on the front left one are all chewed up and it will not come off, so I think I am going to have to jack the stang up to take it out. This is just a minor setback for me, it just got me caught up in the moment and I got real mad. I wanted to have the new floor pan in by next week, but now I have to decide on how to go about taking this seat out. Also, do you suggest that I buy and bracket or just get a piece of metal to attach there? Thanx again, Jeff.
Mavrick
Founding Member
Are you doing the whole passenger side floor pan or only the small area behind the seats?
If you are doing a whole pan, it's not as easy as "welding in a new piece" LOL! Either way don't forget that fuel lines lie under the passenger side floorboards, and they should be moved out of the way when cutting or welding.
If you are doing a whole pan, it's not as easy as "welding in a new piece" LOL! Either way don't forget that fuel lines lie under the passenger side floorboards, and they should be moved out of the way when cutting or welding.
Mavrick said:
The way the seat is rotted is right in the perfect position, not. It starts from halfway under the passenger seat and goes straight to the backseat. One of my cousins is 26 and his does welding for a living, we are going to weld it in. I know it is no piece of cake man. My dad said to me, "If I have to call the fire department to put a fire out, there is going to be trouble." I know the fuel lines are also in a perfect position under the car, I am going to disconnect them and the battery. I already I have a brand new complete full passenger-side floor pan, I bought it from Mustangs Unlimited, I bought the full one because I didn't know how bad it was going to be, but if I wind up doing the whole thing, the fuel tank is going to have to come out too, which sounds like fun.
Well, I put some penetrating oil/ WD-40 on the bolts, and the front left came out. At first the nut/bolt wouldn't come around the stud because the threads were all chewed up, so I did one better and took out the whole stud which worked. Now, the back bolts still won't turn for anything. Still debating whether to use a sawzall, torch, try more WD-40 on them, or just rip the seat out with my bare hands? What do you guys think?
gt50stang89 said:
Yea, thats what I have been thinking lately, that they will never come out, I really don't want to have to cut the seat out. I have been thinking about doing what you have said and just put a wrench on it and take a hammer or rubber mallet and hit the wrench. Hopefully it will work for me and they will come out like they did for you. Thanx for your input.
Problem Solved!!!!! I got the seat out, the front left one that the nut wouldn't come off of, I did one better, I took the whole stud out with the bolt around it. As for the two back bolts, the one closest to the door I cracked with a socket. As for the other back one, it was hard, so since I have no insulation left in my carpet and the carpet isn't good anymore, I just cut the carpet around the bolt and pulled out the seat. The back seats were no problem at all to take out. Going to get a new rug as well. Hope the console comes out without any problems. The new floor pan will be in this Sunday, my older cousin is a welder and he is going to do it for me. Thanx everyone for all your help. Jeff.
cjman15
Banned
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