Floorpan replacement. ...*pics added*

danny clemens said:

That's what I've read too. Any insight as to why it won't go in from the bottom if the drive train is removed.

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Floor support's (if intact that is)

mustangman70
Oh and also.... what about the seat platform?

If its jsut free should i jsut cut it and weld it to the new floor?

As for the seat platform.
Get ahold of some spot weld drill bit's,drill out the factory weld's ,then you just plug weld it to the new floor, time consuming ..Yes ,but it will be worth it, and it will look like factory ,that's the way my Mach was done ,it look's as if it were factory. Hope this help's

[QUOTE='69Mach1]Floor support's (if intact that is)

mustangman70
Oh and also.... what about the seat platform?

If its jsut free should i jsut cut it and weld it to the new floor?
Get ahold of some spot weld drill bit's,drill out the factory weld's ,then you just plug weld it to the new floor, time consuming ..Yes ,but it will be worth it, and it will look like factory ,that's the way my Mach was done ,it look's as if it were factory. Hope this help's[/QUOTE]
hit that right on the money on the seat pan thing.

Por15 is cheap insurance to keep it from being done again.

xoxbxfx said:

I would do full length not a single entire floor. The cost alone is the big factor. Usually the trans tunnel isnt rusted or anything. I wouldnt mess with it just cause its a PITA. Just patch what you need, why fix whats not bad.

The floor is like a 69... its made of like 3 panels that make up the floor. Its not to bad. Cutting is what sucks. If its a few localized holes in the trunk, I'd patch it with small patches. Can you get some pics of the rust issues?

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That's exactly how mine was done, and the way I'd do it again ,you have to consider the structural integrity of the unibody ,removing the entire floor could be disasterous.

if you can . .maybe post pics of the current rust damage


the origional floor that is in there is much stronger than any repro floor pan you can get, so replace only the parts that are more than surface rust. it can be decieving, but you can hit the floor with a wire wheel or a grider and determine how deep the rust is in spots to minimize what you truely need to replace.

mustangman70 said:

So im assuming that MOST of the welding of the floor will be done underneath correct?

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on my floor pans, i perhaps went a bit overboard, however, i did a full seam weld on top and bottom

Looks like the tunnel is ok and just front and/or full pans might do it. That'll make the job a lot simpler.

Typical coastal rust up higher, though. Luckily, the colw on a 70 is easy to get to, so if you have a leak there, it should be a simpler fix.

I think you're definitely gonna need quarter skins, door skins, maybe wheelhousings and bug spray for the spiders!!

My coupe is getting the same sheetmetal and pesticide treatment!

Mustangman70... check out my cardomain site. There is a quarter replacement there, also floors and cowl. If you need more pics, I can always send you more. That will give you some idea of what those are about.

mustangman70 said:

THANKS MAN!!

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hey man..if you are around, hit me up on AOL IM

xoxbxfx


man..i will just type it all here.

You probably wont like what I say but here we go anyways. If I were you, I would fix everything you have and not mess with repro stuff. The crap just doesnt line up correctly and the stuff that does is EXPENSIVE. If you decide to buy instead of fix, only buy origional tooling stuff. I have messed with way to many repro pieces and had way to many headaches trying to make stuff fit correctly. Right now I have a set of repro 66 door shells and they SUCK. Im actually hacking up $450 in brand new door shells to use them for patch pieces of the origional. The coupe I have right now needed doors and fenders. I had no choice on the fenders but the doors, I had origionals. Its going to save a lot of headaches patching the inside and outsides of the doors rather than messing with repros. We bolted up the door shells and tried making them fit for 3 hours and it just wouldnt line up right. Put the origionals on just to make sure the car seems square and they line up perfectly. You either spend money now on quality origional tooling stuff or you will end up paying a bodyshop twice as much to fit the junk (if they are even willing to). Most bodyshops would rather repair a rusted door or fender than use origional tooling stuff because it just isnt the same.

Dont mess with a full quarter skin. Its a PITA and really not worth it. Just fix the areas that are messed up. You can buy small patch panels for the sections of the wheel well, lower quarters...all that stuff. Only patch what you need. If the quarter had HUGE dents and stuff that wasnt very fixable, then I would replace the quarter, but thats the only time. Doing a quarter panel is not for the faint of heart if you dont have professional guidance. You will end up with a warped panel and a ton of mud work.

mustangman70 said:

well im at work right now and cant get on aim till i get home


Thanks for the advice...do they make a little patch piece for that area right behind the rear window on the trunk? what about just under the quater window?



My doors are pretty frickin rusted though

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I dont think they make that piece behind the window... just salvage what you got and use some dynaglass.