Florida 5.0 gauge panel killing battery?

[1991notchbackLX]

I installed my florida 5.0 gauge panel a few days ago and when I took the car out for a cruise today it died on me and left me on the side of the freeway. I just paid $200 for a tow truck ride home. Is there some common issue that causes these panels to drain the battery? Has this happened to anyone before? The voltmeter is reading 8 volts and it just clicks when you turn the key. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

Chris

 

[HISSIN50]

Look for a red/lt green or red/lt green wire that goes through the battery-warning-light circuit. Make sure this is still connected. If not, the alternator won't charge.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

I found a thread on corral concerning this problem. Can you clarify exactly what has to be done in layman's terms? I'm far from an automotive wiring guru. Can this be done in the engine bay or does it have to be done at the cluster itself?

I'm seeing 11V across the battery terminals with a 2.5A draw at the positive cable at idle, 11V at the solenoid, and 11V at the nut on the 3g alternator. This alternator is new and worked perfectly before the gauge cluster swap.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

Some guys are saying this issue caused them to burn out a fuel pump. I cannot afford this happening. What's the safest and simplest way to fix this problem?

Can I splice into the red/lt green wire going to the alt with a T and connect it to the 12v positive stud at the solenoid on the fenderwell? I appreciate the help, I need this done before work tomorrow morning...

 

[281pony]

jt has it down i think, i made the same mistake, i didnt tap into the wire for the alternator. it didnt charge and my battery died on me.

the wire is behind the gauge cluster.

 

[stangster50]

as stated above there is a wire coming from the alternator to the volt guage. if this wire isnt hooked up/hooked up wrong, then it will not charge. you cant just hook it up to a 12v source, you need a resistor in line. if it is hooked up to a 12v source, it may be too late for the alt.
this should help.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

Apparently it isn't hooked up to anything right now. I haven't touched it yet as I was waiting on more info before I try to go fix it. So where do I get a 560 Ohm resistor? I read on other forums that the resistor isn't necessary, just a precaution, and that you can just tie the red/lt green wire into any switched 12v source. They're saying the resistor is only in case the bulb in the stock cluster blows out (?) the alt will still charge.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

this is pulled from the florida 5.0 website FAQ:

After I installed the Instrument cluster my alternator won't charge. What did I do or not do for this to happen?

When you disconnected the factory cluster the alternator circuit was opened causing the wire that energizes the alternator to be left open. In the instructions there was a special note about how to make sure the alternator would operate. What you will need to do is in the factory wire harness there are 2 wires that need to be jumped. You need to find a 12-volt ignition source and use the jumper wire that was in the electrical hardware bag and jump the 12-volt ign. wire to the Light Green/Red wire. What that will do is it will energize the alternator when the ignition is turned on. That will fix the problem of not having a charging alternator.

 

[HISSIN50]

A resistor costs pennies -I'd hit Radio shack and get one. The exact rating isn't important - get right around 500 Ohms and you should be good. You could use an instrument light bulb for now (a bulb is a resistor. The battery light is what power goes through unless it burns out - that's why the OEM wiring has a resistor in parallel).

If you simply need to get this thing going, You can try your Tee idea. You'd Tee near the regulator plug (convenient and accessible) and then install a run of wire with your ~500 Ohm resistor and connect this to accessory power.

 

[stang&2Birds]

So where do I get a 560 Ohm resistor?

Same place you where get everything else ever made - EBAY!

IMHO, a 1/4 watt may be a little low for the power rating. Get a 1W, or bigger, resistor.

On Ebay, do a search for:
560 ohm 1W
560 ohm 2W
560 ohm 3W


Right now, there are 3W 560 ohm resistors (5 pieces) on ebay for $1.50 & $2 S&H (Item number: 320334476312). That sounds like a decent deal to me.

 

[1991notchbackLX]

Thanks guys. My local Radio Shack is closed. Worst case scenario I'll go the ebay route. I kinda need this thing running tonight, but what can you do.

I'm guessing I'll have to solder this thing in line and then cover it with heat shrink tubing?

 

[1991notchbackLX]

For anyone reading this in the future, I tied the red/lt green wire from the alternator harness into the 12v switched power wire to the IAC (the red/green wire, not the white/lt blue). I soldered a 560 Ohm/1 watt resistor in line of the jumper wire, wrapped it in electrical tape, and then heat shrink tubing. Solved the problem and the alternator now charges perfectly. Thanks to those who helped! And Thanks to Tmoss for his wiring diagrams!

Chris

 

[stang&2Birds]

Cool, glad that worked!