Flowtech long tube headers...opinions?

I thinking about buying a used set of flowtech long tube headers and off-road H-pipe. I'm currently running stock headers + pace setter off-road H pipe and mac pro-dumps.

Does anybody have any opinions on these headers/h-pipe. I'm getting the two of them for $170 canadian, which is actually a damn fine price. Also, would I see much of a difference in performance and would the difference in sound be very noticable?

Thanks for the help :)
 
Long Tube Headers (flowtech) 1988 Mustang GT

I went from shorty headers to long tubes headers recently. Flowtech headers were reasonably priced (Summit Racing) so that is what is on my car now. I have cherry bomb header mufflers bolted on so it makes some noise. No cats, no resinators, no tail pipes, just "long tube headers & header mufflers". Put some long tubes on those fox body mustangs (1987 thru 1993) or any year in my opinion. One of my motor mounts was broken so I fixed that when I was installing my headers (yes, you do have to raise up the engine a bit when installing long tubes) I think I had to remove the brake booster also. Quite a bit of work, but I'm glad I did it. 6 bolts & my mufflers are on or off!!!....here is a list of mods on my 88 - tuff stuff one wire alternator, tuff stuff chrome water pump, electric fan, air eliminator kit, underdrive pullies, three row radiator, superchip, long tube headers, headers mufflers, egr eliminator plate, air pump eliminator, king cobra clutch kit (new flywheel), new motor mounts, msd coil, 190 lph holly in-tank fuel pump, hurst shifter, super charger is next.
 
I've installed 3 or 4 sets of Flowtechs. The pipes separate from the collector, so that on each side, you install the front pipe with the collector assembly, then install each tube individually after that. They go right in-I never have to raise the engine. On my '85 LX I've had them on and off so many times recently that if I had to jack the motor up each time it would take hours to take just the one side off. Thankfully, just remove the bolts for the 3 rear pipes, slip them out, then remove the front pipe and drop the header out the bottom. Also with the pipes separating like they do, changing the starter is a little easier. A LITTLE easier. Still a pain in the rump.

They're cheap headers. Flanges are thin. Tubes are thin. O2 bungs are in a single tube on each header rather than in the collector. I don't need O2's in my applications so that's not a problem with mine. One of the cars that I put them on lasted forever. I bought the car with them already on and ran it way over 100,000 miles (I think around 112,000, IIRC) and they never rusted out or anything. Only had to replace flange gaskets about 4 times in 10 years but other than that, they were great for the money. For $130 what more can you ask for? The other options are at LEAST twice as much. BBK's are what? $350 and go up from there?

Flowtechs are almost identical to the Super Comps I put on dad's Fairmont. The slip fit tubes are almost identical in design. They fit ok-not great-but acceptable in most cases. Mini starter only-full size starter lays against the tubes on the RH side and then the starter cable is too close. I used both a PMGR Ford starter and a CVR starter-both fit fine.

Have no idea about the H pipes-I made my own X. The others are all open headers but one has extensions. I don't like the 3 bolt collectors...in fact on my '85 coupe bracket car, I removed the collectors totally and crossed a few tubes from one bank to the other to make a 180° header, then put on some V-band collectors that I had laying around from an old turbo project. Then just some 8" long extensions from there and open exhaust. Yeah it sounds odd. Doesn't make any more power that I can tell but I did it for the odd sound.

I did pick up a set of used BBK 1 3/4" ceramic headers...man...they are a LOT nicer than the Flowtechs, but also a LOT more expensive. I guess the old saying that goes with this example is ya get what ya pay fer (like they say over in Kentucky).