Fluidyne installed, now some ?s

As far as water antifreeze mixture; I don't. I run all distilled water and two bottles of water wetter. It has anti corrosive properties and I haven't had any problems.

I don't think that is the issue with your temps though. I would look into figuring out a way for the fan to come on sooner. I personally, ran a new relay and bypassed the regular wiring. In my car as soon as the ignition goes to the on position so does the fan. I'm sure others will offer other ways of doing this though. Good luck
- Justin

The thing you have to remember is that antifreeze is just that, something to prevent freezing. It actually hurts the ability of water to cool. Some people have no choice depending on where they live. I am fortunate to live in SoCal, so I don't really need any. The water wetter should help some though.

it doesnt go below 210 even while crusing down the highway? Without the fan set to come on sooner, the car should still run in the 180-190 range while on the highways with all that air flowing through there.. How hot is it where you live now?

Justin's thoughts are very good. As he said, water transfers heat ~2.6 times more efficiently than E/G coolant. My view is a little different on the stoichiometry however. I run no less than 25% coolant and will normally run 50/50, even though I live in the desert (we see highs in the one-hundred teens). I feel that if someone needs to have more water in the system to keep things cool, there's another issue which needs addressing.

I totally agree about the fan control. That will make a large difference. A Dc Control unit works awesome if you want a stand-alone.

I would go ahead and install a Mr Gasket stat if you have doubts about yours. Cheaper stats are not balanced and can suffer from hysteresis. This means they don't always open when they should.

Do also ensure your cap is holdilng proper pressure. 16 PSI in the system raises the effective boiling point about 50*F.

For the ground strap........... um, I dont see a ground strap *preventing* electrolysis (perhaps galvanic corrosion would be a better way of stating it). The strap simply provides a ground pathway. I'd like to not have any current in the electrolyte but short of that, a ground strap is a good idea IMHO. Does your radiator have mounting tabs for the fan (fans themselves can cause electrolysus - a useless factoid)? I would run a little braided (but insulated for chafing concerns) strap from a metal mounting tab on the radiator to the body.

Good luck.

It's in the 80's. I also run a 160 degree thermostat though. As you will see following that statement, many will tell you, you shouldn't. I'm not recommending one way or the other just letting you know my experiences. It runs very cool the way I have it set up but if it's hot and I push the car hard, it will get hotter even with the lower thermostat, Fluidyne, fan wired on and new water pump. I think our cars have problems with the way water flows through the block. But I don't have any specific evidence to support this. I just don't see how all kinds of stock cars always run at the same temp regardless of how they are driven and our cars have so many problems even for those who have upgraded. That's the only other thing that I think could be a problem.
- Justin

FWIW, the low speed fan comes on at 208 on t4mo computers. The high speed comes on at 224 IIRC.

I'd try installing a manual fan switch and see what that does for you. (Don't leave it on high all the time..and if you go to the high setting, make sure you're in "low first" so the fan gets up to speed. Otherwise the fan may catch fire)

I have a fluidyne, 50/50 mix, stock waterpump. I adjusted my fan temps with the tweecer to come on much earlier.My temps range around the 180-190 mark on a 90* day. It sometimes will crawl up to 198...but never past 200. I attribute this to the CRAZY underhood temps the car has. It climbs up to 120 or so with the AC on.

best of luck

our block design is no different than the previous body style. the only difference is the timing cover, water pump, and accessory brackets. the focus of the blame IMHO would be the poor design of the front bumper which doesnt allow sufficient airflow. i have a fluidyne radiator, 180* thermostat, 70/30 mix favoring water, and the tweecer turning the fan on about 20* eairler than normal. i havent had any cooling issues at all. i also live in south florida where the average temp during the summer is in the high 80's, low 90's.

also, something I forgot to mention...

look under your car by the radiator and see if you have a little black piece under the radiator. That's the air dam thing and it forces air going under the car back across the radiator at speed.

Green 94 5.0 said:

the focus of the blame IMHO would be the poor design of the front bumper which doesnt allow sufficient airflow.

Click to expand...

This is entirely possible. I've been running my car without the air deflector because I never really knew it was missing. It's on the way in the mail as we speak so I'm hoping this helpful when I'm pushing the car hard since that is the only time I run into a problem (Plus I've already done everything else I can).
- Justin

badstang123 said:

This is entirely possible. I've been running my car without the air deflector because I never really knew it was missing. It's on the way in the mail as we speak so I'm hoping this helpful when I'm pushing the car hard since that is the only time I run into a problem (Plus I've already done everything else I can).
- Justin

Click to expand...

Ever since I put the Xenon front lip, (and it blocks the dam) My car runs warmer. I cant take it off now b/c the car looks like crap with the front missing. One day, I will replace the bumper and the lip with a replacement Xenon Bumper.

RC