For a supercharger i need :

For your car you can simply buy a Vortech kit and it will have everything you need. You can use your stock injectors, MAF, TB, and intank pump. The FMU simply crimps off the returning fuel so extra pressure is built up in the rails which in turn makes the injectors shoot more fuel when they open.
 
FMU's will cause lean/rich conditions. I wouldnt use one. Just get the right size injector and call it a day. I would go with 42lb injectors (some are gonna disagree).. It may be a lil over kill now, but you can always tune fuel out, you can never add more if u max the injector out. Plus it should be the last injector u will need.

I would grab a 80mm Pro-m.

70mm tbody is ideal

255 lph intank pump, as well as a 255 inline pump(added insurance)
 
yellow1995Cobra said:
FMU's will cause lean/rich conditions. I wouldnt use one. Just get the right size injector and call it a day. I would go with 42lb injectors (some are gonna disagree).. It may be a lil over kill now, but you can always tune fuel out, you can never add more if u max the injector out. Plus it should be the last injector u will need.

I would grab a 80mm Pro-m.

70mm tbody is ideal

255 lph intank pump, as well as a 255 inline pump(added insurance)


what he said. I am going though the same thing right now. I also added a fluidyne radiator to keep the temp at a minimum. Just being cautious.
 
You dont "NEED" any other size MAF or TB. You will run better with a Prom77 or 80 and a 65/70mm TB with the S/C.

Now:
1. If you get a new MAF, then go ahead and get the 42lb injectors and get the MAF calibrated as such, and get a 255 In tank pump.

2. If not, use a 10:1 FMU to start and just hook it up.

GO to VOrtech and look at what comes with the kit for more info.

RC
 
I bolted mine on stock then bought all the supporting mods less a TB. I dont have all the optimal parts I just bought what I found cheap:
24 lb injectors
Vortech 8:1 FMU
C&L 73mm Calibrated for 24s
UPR Powerpipe
Walbro 255 (GSS340)
MSD Wires, MSD Coil, Autolite 24s...

Im running 11 psi it runs awesome. I did just break my oil pump shaft but thats probably because the engine has 120,000 miles on it I guess. Should do around a 11.9 @ 113mph when I get a new pump installed.
 
AXIStang said:
Im running 11 psi it runs awesome. I did just break my oil pump shaft but thats probably because the engine has 120,000 miles on it I guess. Should do around a 11.9 @ 113mph when I get a new pump installed.

When you say "supporting mods" do you mean H/C/I?

If any of those 3 are stock, there is NWIH you will run 11.9 with just a Vortech at 11 PSI
Chris Eades ran a 12.0 (and he knows how to drive) with H/C/I, Vortech at 12 PSI, some suspension, blah blah blah. ( I still remember his post)
Even WITH H/C/I, under 12 is a task on stock block with 120k miles.

Not flaming...just dont want to give anyone false hopes!
RC
 
ok, how do you go about sizing an fmu, what is the 10:1 ratio mean...and must you get a difrent unit dependant on boost? Also, do you need the matching brand fmu? Lastly, people have said that an fmu causes the car not to run as good as just doing the correct injectors, maf, etc...also, if i was to go with the injectors/ maf option, would i need, say 36 lb injectors? anyhow. how much does an fmu cost anyway, and if you were in my posistion, would you go the fmu or the injectors? thanks!
 
94GTLaserRC said:
When you say "supporting mods" do you mean H/C/I?

If any of those 3 are stock, there is NWIH you will run 11.9 with just a Vortech at 11 PSI
Chris Eades ran a 12.0 (and he knows how to drive) with H/C/I, Vortech at 12 PSI, some suspension, blah blah blah. ( I still remember his post)
Even WITH H/C/I, under 12 is a task on stock block with 120k miles.

Not flaming...just dont want to give anyone false hopes!
RC

You cant really go off one car. I dont see running 11's with a blower+h/c/i would be much trouble at all. Just some practice driving the car and it should be fine. Just think about pauls car, he went 12.3 n/a. With a blower he would be easily in the 11's.

But with stock heads/cam and a blower 11's would be tough. I think doable, but the car would have to be very very light, and pulling 1.5 or 1.6 60ft's.

Green, just gte the 42#'ers. I got mine used for 250 shipped. With only a few miles on them.
 
GreenMustangGt said:
ok, how do you go about sizing an fmu, what is the 10:1 ratio mean...and must you get a difrent unit dependant on boost? Also, do you need the matching brand fmu? Lastly, people have said that an fmu causes the car not to run as good as just doing the correct injectors, maf, etc...also, if i was to go with the injectors/ maf option, would i need, say 36 lb injectors? anyhow. how much does an fmu cost anyway, and if you were in my posistion, would you go the fmu or the injectors? thanks!
The FMU is a way to "bandage" the not enough fuel situation while using subsufficient injectors.

It works good enough. If you dont want to bother, then you need new injectors and a new MAF calibrated for them.

If not, I will sell you my 8:1 FMU with bleeder valve (that alone was $25) for $55 shipped!

Good luck
RC
 
GreenMustangGt said:
what do the ratios mean as far as the fmu, also, getting a LArger injector is not going to over richen the car>

Im pretty sure it is the ratio of how much more the FMU will retain fuel from returning vs. Without an FMU.

2:1 means (I think) that 1/2 the fuel will return through the lines as without one.

8:1 means that only 1/8 the amt of fuel will return than without one. etc.

When the boost is engaged, it presses down on a diaphragm in the FMU to hold the fuel in the lines instead of allowing it to return to the tank

And yes, if the injector is too large, it will over richen.

That's why I ditched the FMU when I got the 36's
RC
 
All FMUs have ratings, such as 12:1 or 8:1. What that means is, if its a 12:1, it will raise fuel pressure 12 PSI per 1 PSI of boost. So if you boost 7 PSI, then it will raise the fuel pressure to 7 X 12 = 84 PSI. When the fuel pressure is raised, more fuel is added into the cylinders. Easy concept.

I have the 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12:1 disks from Vortech but they are made for different sized injectors. A lot of tuners dont like them because you cant fine tune the fuel curve enough with a ratio. If you dont want to use a FMU, your best bet is to get large injectors, matching mass air, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a custom tune.
 
AXIStang said:
If you dont want to use a FMU, your best bet is to get large injectors, matching mass air, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a custom tune.

It's funny, because I know A lot of guys with adj FPR's, including some with N/A. I still have the stock one with my mods and Im doing fine. Joe and I did try to put one in once, and it leaked. I sent it back and never got a new one..

Go figure.
RC