For those of you who have done the Jerry mod

I used the mild or mild w/ gear change settings with my jerry mod and im glad i didnt go any higher. It snaps into gear pretty nice.

The list of holes for the older trans is excessive, many on the 99+ trans dont need to be opened up. Take care reading over the holes again to see if your year is applicable.

Dont forget the ATF
I think youll need snap ring pliars as well.

Also make sure to keep track of all the check balls in the VB...wouldnt be hard to lose em or their placing. Take your time with it, it's a simple project.

Cant remember anything else off the top of my head.. I highly advise a lift if you can get access to one- and wear the goggles. Tranny fluid in the eyes isn't 'fun'.

99+ 4r70w Jerry Mod Install Instructions

Needed Supplies:
Jack (hydraulic, two preferred)
Jack stands
Snap ring/retaining ring pliers w/assorted tips
Metric sockets (deep and regular)
Metric box wrenches (open and closed end)
Flat-head screwdrivers (assorted sizes)
1/4", 3/8", ratchets and extensions
15 qt. capacity catch pan
Fluid Pump
Inch-pound torque wrench
Needle-nose pliers
Regular pliers
Brake cleaner
Paper towels and shop rags
Speedy dry or Kitty litter

Remove the ATF dipstick and put the fluid pump inlet hose down the dipstick
tube (of course make sure the hose and pump are clean). You should be able to
pump out at least one or two quarts of ATF. Now you are ready to clean the
outside of the trans pan and surrounding areas. Just remember the cleaner you
keep everything in the vicinity, the cleaner the internals of the trans will be.

Note, on my 2002 GT the torque converter does not have a drain plug!!!

Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10mm pan bolts. Drop the
pan carefully to avoid spilling any remaining ATF. Remove the filter assembly
and verify the filter seal was removed from the bore. If it stuck in the bore of
the valve body you can remove it later when you have the valve body removed
from the trans. Drop the filter into the pan. Discard the plastic plunger that may
be floating in the pan. It was used to plug the dip stick hole during the factory
assembly. Allow the transmission to drip thoroughly before removing the main
controls (valve body).

Now it is time to remove the molded plastic electrical connector. This is a large
connector that has a main connection on the front passenger side of the trans
case. The connector then runs to the various solenoids located on the valve
body. There should be something like four places that the connector is attached
at every solenoid. They are all standard ford notch clips, it only takes a small
precision screwdriver to wedge in between the two and gently release the
connection. Be careful not to damage any of the clips.

Remove the 25-8mm not the 10mm main control (valve body) bolts. Start with
the 13 bolts around the valve body plate or the shorter length 8mm bolts. Then
remove the 12 longer length 8mm bolts inside the valve body plate. Keep track
of where they came from on the valve body.

Note one of the bolts retains the Rooster Comb Spring (with the roller attached to
it). Make a drawing, take a picture or write down a brief description of the manual
valve and the detent lever set-up.

NOTE: The orange dot on the rooster comb spring designates the part facing
down.
The old style manual valve is the valve shown here in this photo. Note that the
third reinforcing plate shown in the picture is not present on 99+ valve body.

The detent wheel's pin attaches in the FIRST section on the valve (the very thin
part before the c-clip ring). Also note that the rooster comb spring is in the
general area of the manual valve detent (it will all make sense when you pull the
pan and look at it).

Carefully lower the valve body into the original transmission pan and move it to
the work bench. Be careful, as the 2-3 accumulator retainer and spring may fall
out and drop into the pan. There is a small filter (approx 1" tall) that will fall out of
the transmission casing when the valve body is removed. The filter goes on the
front driver side of the trans case not the valve body (you have to really look to
figure out where it goes and it's orientation (but it will only go in one way).

NOTE: To perform the main control modifications, your working environment
should be sterile and clean.

1-2 ACCUMULATOR PISTON (if applicable). To remove the 1-2 accumulator
piston, remove the snap ring using snap ring/retaining ring pliers. The 1-2
accumulator piston should pop out of it's bore fairly easily. If not, push up on it
with your fingers or an extension to re-act the return spring. Use Scotch-Brite on
the accumulator bore if it is slightly scored. Spray brake cleaner to clean out the
bore before you install the new updated accumulator piston. Allow the brake
cleaner to evaporate before installing the new piston. Apply some fresh ATF with
your finger to the rubber seals on the accumulator piston before installing it.


2-3 ACCUMULATOR PISTON (if applicable). To remove the 2-3 accumulator
piston, simply remove the main controls (valve body). The retainer and return
spring will fall out freely maybe. if not just get a small 90? bend allen wrench
and pull it out by the holes in the bottom of the retainer. Do not re-install the
stock return spring, or any return spring for that matter (there is only one spring in
the 2/3 accumulator). You will have to bend the tabs out on the retaining clamp
slightly with a pair of pliers in order to keep the 2-3 accumulator in its bore.


Re-install the main controls (valve body) at this time. Be sure that the 1-2
Accumulator, 2-3 Accumulator, are up in their proper locations (especially the 2-3
accumulator) before proceeding. Also be sure that the filter seal has been
removed from it's bore, if not now is the best time to remove it.

There is also a little black cone-shaped filter that goes into the transmission
case; this is the one that I told you would fall out whenever the valve body is
removed.

Verify that you have properly performed the main controls (valve body)
modifications before continuing.
You must align the manual valve with the detent wheel's pin while pushing the
valve body up into place. This can be tricky especially while trying to keep the
small filter in place, be patient and methodical. The pin gets inserted into the
FIRST section on the manual valve (the thin part before the c-clip ring).
Install the valve body in the reverse order as it was removed. Carefully thread
two of the longer 8mm bolts into the opposite ends of the main controls, to hold it
in place. Re-install the remaining 23 bolts that retain the valve body. Torque the
bolts to 90 in.-lbs.

Reinstall the molded plastic electrical connector. Ensure that all connections are
tight.

Install the assembly into it's bore in the main controls. Apply fresh ATF with your
finger to the filter seal before installing it.

Clean the trans pan and magnet at this time if you have not already. Re-use the
original transmission pan gasket, provided it is not ripped or damaged. Bolt up
the pan using the original 14, 10mm bolts. Tighten the pan bolts up to 120 in.-lbs.
of torque.

Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube. Add 6 qts. of MERCON-V ATF
(XT-5-QM) at first. Hold the brake firmly and start the engine. Move the shifter
level through the gears, stopping at each indent or position. Do not panic if you
do not feel the transmission engage into gear. Stop the engine and add 3 more
quarts of MERCON-V ATF to the dip stick tube. Your trans should be full enough
to heat it up. Start the car and move the shifter through all gears pausing at each
one. You should feel the trans engage as you go gear to gear. Let the car warm
up a little and check the dipstick. If the fluid is not even reading on the dipstick
add half a quart no more. Let the car sit for five minutes and check again, if it is
not on the dipstick add another half quart. Then of course go for a drive to heat
up the trans and check the fluid hot. Add or subtract fluid as necessary (great
use for a fluid punp). The 4R70W holds 12 quarts of ATF fluid, do not over-fill
the transmission. NOTE: If you have an auxiliary transmission cooler, you will
require 13 quarts of ATF.
Inspect the pan and transmission for leaks. If you see smoke, do not panic, it is
just the ATF burning off of the exhaust parts. Once the engine has warmed,
rev the engine slightly (to activate the pump). Then move the shifter lever through
the gears. Hold each gear for at least one second before changing to a new
indent or position. You should feel the transmission engage each gear followed
by a decrease in engine rpm.
Road test the vehicle. Observe the shifting, firmness of the shifts and rpm of the
shift points. Also check reverse and forward gear characteristics. Accelerate to
45-50 mph and press the Overdrive "ON/OFF" button located on the shifter
handle. Verify that the transmission has engaged 4th (OD) gear and that the
vehicle accelerates properly. Verify you can manually shift the transmission in the
1-2 and 2-3 positions.
Re-check the clamps on the transmission cooler lines and auxiliary cooler. Check
to make sure you have no leaks, especially under the pan. Verify that your fluid
level is correct in both "Cold" and "Warm" conditions. Enjoy your new upgrades.
Estimated installation time 4 hours (really good) to 12 hours (slow/meticulous
people).
Please dispose of the ATF and used parts according to your local and state laws.
Clean up any spilled ATF fluid using proper methods. Animals are attracted to
the ATF, and it is very harmful to them. Wear nitrile gloves if your skin is sensitive
to the ATF's properties. Special thanks Jerry for the modified main controls and
technical support.

NOTE: I do not assume responsibility for damaged and/or broken materials
during the installation of the aforementioned parts. This document is solely
designed as a supplement to a Ford Motor Company shop manual.

Mods: MAKE THIS A STICKY

gtblack02 said:

Hey YtnGT, Have you done this mod because its definitely different from the one that you just increase the hole size on the seperator plates. These instructions say to replace the 1-2 accumulator piston and changing all the return springs. Does this come in a kit you buy because I'm not to sure what size piston or spring length I will need. If you could clarify this I would appreicate it. Thanks, Thaddeus

Click to expand...

Replacing the accumulator springs is only for the 98/older trans as an upgrade to bring them up to current spec.
You can (i did) remove the lower 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator springs. This makes the trans 'snap' into gear faster (drilling the holes makes it shift firmer).

Transgo is better, comes with the video!

Get the most expensive ring pliers you can find at the autoparts store. I bought a cheapy and boy it took me hours til i gave up and bought an expensive one, got it off in a second.

The information is from TCCOA and Specifically J-Mod Installation . I added a little bit here and there, from my install, to help 99+ 4r70ws...

I removed both 1-2 & 2-3 lower springs and drilled the separator plate as follows:
Origional Hole Size Proposed Hole Size
Hole # 1 .160 .160
Hole # 2 .080 .100
Hole # 3 .180 .180
Hole # 4 .070 .100
Hole # 5 .078 .100
Hole # 6 .125 .125
Hole # 7 .075 .075
Hole # 8 .238 .238
Hole # 9 .079 .089
Hole #10 .066 .089
Hole #11 .100 .100


J-Mod has been installed for 30K miles now (2 years) and no failures. The shifts are quick and positive. Even with a Predator I do not increase the shift firmness over stock. It is just right for the power I can produce (not much).

streetstang03 said:

Mods: MAKE THIS A STICKY

Click to expand...

I'd LOVE firmer shifts but I really don't want to attempt this myself. Is anybody still doing the mod for money by mail or anything? You think I could convince the tranny shop down the street from me to do it and charge for labor only? What would be a fair price to pay?

gtblack02, I removed the 1-2 & 2-3 bottom spring and yes the 2-3 only has a bottom spring.