Ford Newbie - Intake gasket - '68 289 4bbl

GoodysGotaCuda · May 10, 2008

Played with Mopar's most of my time wrenching and am looking for any advice to intake gasket replacement.

The intake on our 68' 289 is a Edelbrock Performer aluminum manifold.

*Do the bolts need RTV/Sealant?
*What is the torque spec for an aluminum manifold?
*Should any RTV be applied to the manifold gasket itself?
*End seals, is it common on Fords to use endseal gaskets, or just a bead of RTV?

Also have some other 289 questions to add instead of starting a new thread.

- Setting valve lash, does anyone have the cylinder order to set the valves to?
- What should the lash specification be set to? Feeler gauge between rocker/valve stem?

Thanks!

D.Hearne · May 10, 2008

No sealer on the intake bolts. Torque to 20-25 ft/lbs. I torque em all 3-4 times then again the next day to insure the gaskets compress and settle. I use a thin film of RTV around the coolant ports. I also use the end gaskets. Some do, some don't. It's your funeral. No lash to set a 68 289 to, it's got hydraulic lifters. Tighten till the pushrod is hard to twist between your fingers, then another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Do each cylinder in the firing order till all are done. Start with # 1 on it's firing stroke, rotate the crank 1/4 turn for each cylinder, following the firing oder.

GoodysGotaCuda · May 10, 2008

Thank you for the help. This engine hasn't ran in a few years, I have been considering pulling the intake manifold to:
A) clean/paint it
B)Look around for any signs of areas needing attention
C)Lubricating the cam up before firing it back up again.

woodsnake · May 11, 2008

If you want to prelube the engine after a long hibernation, you could just pull the distributor, (AFTER PROPER INDEXING!!)
And prime the oil pump. Any reason in particular you need to set the lash?

rbohm · May 11, 2008

DH gave you good advice on installing the intake, here is mine;

dump the end gaskets and use a bead of rtv, i prefer the black rtv. i also put a THIN layer of rtv around the coolant ports on both sides of the gasket. when i torque the intake down i start by torquing the corners first in a criss cross pattern to 20ft/lbs, then use the stock ford pattern(inside out) again to 20ft/lbs. i repeat that torque pattern a second time to 25ft/lbs, and then to 30ft/lbs. i realize that ford spec is 25ft/lbs, but if you read the shop manual it does allow for go to 30ft/lbs if oyu have a vacuum leak you cant cure. i will go back about a week later and retorque the intake.

as you can see DH and i differ on installing an intake, and both of us have had excellent results with our methods. i know it is confusing, but try one, and if oyu get good results stick with it, if you dont try the other method.

GoodysGotaCuda · May 11, 2008

Thanks you guys. I got the intake removed and noticed a good amount of rust/water build up in the intake runners. So we pulled the heads, its looking like we will yank the motor and at the least re-ring, new bearings and hone the block up. Just sat outside for awhile.

Just a quick question on yanking the engine. Is there anything special about the converter? Mopar and GM i know just have 4 converter bolts, right-hand thread, just checking! Thanks!

Grabber70Mach · May 11, 2008

GoodysGotaCuda said:
Just a quick question on yanking the engine. Is there anything special about the converter? Mopar and GM i know just have 4 converter bolts, right-hand thread, just checking! Thanks!

You are correct, 4-bolts right-hand thread.

D.Hearne · May 16, 2008

rbohm said:
DH gave you good advice on installing the intake, here is mine;

dump the end gaskets and use a bead of rtv, i prefer the black rtv. i also put a THIN layer of rtv around the coolant ports on both sides of the gasket. when i torque the intake down i start by torquing the corners first in a criss cross pattern to 20ft/lbs, then use the stock ford pattern(inside out) again to 20ft/lbs. i repeat that torque pattern a second time to 25ft/lbs, and then to 30ft/lbs. i realize that ford spec is 25ft/lbs, but if you read the shop manual it does allow for go to 30ft/lbs if oyu have a vacuum leak you cant cure. i will go back about a week later and retorque the intake.

as you can see DH and i differ on installing an intake, and both of us have had excellent results with our methods. i know it is confusing, but try one, and if oyu get good results stick with it, if you dont try the other method.

We're not that far apart on intake install. I just got back from a trip and noticed I forgot to include the torque sequence. I start at the middle and work outward. Anytime I tried to go over 25 ft/lbs, I usually felt the outer corner bolt threads start to yeild.

rbohm · May 16, 2008

D.Hearne said:
We're not that far apart on intake install. I just got back from a trip and noticed I forgot to include the torque sequence. I start at the middle and work outward.

yep. both ways work well as long as you pay attention to detail.

Anytime I tried to go over 25 ft/lbs, I usually felt the outer corner bolt threads start to yeild.

this is why i torque in three steps.

EP429 · May 17, 2008

I was working on buttoning up my head swap today, and upon opening my intake gasket box I found that the cork strips for the ends from Fel-Pro have been done away with and replaced with a form-fitting rubber gasket. Has anyone came across these yet? If so, any leaking/problems of any sort?

D.Hearne · May 17, 2008

I've used both the rubber and corks, no problems. The rubbers have the tabs to keep em in place. The cork seals now have an adhesive backing to stick em to the block.

Fast63 · May 17, 2008

I have used the rubber and cork end gaskets successfully too, but not 100% of the time I use them are they successful. Using a simple bead of RTV has made life much easier for me in that department.

Ford Newbie - Intake gasket - '68 289 4bbl

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