Ford Racing Balancer With No Markings
- Thread starter TOOLOW91
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Jeff, I've seen that before on the FRP ones. I believe they are made for different timing mark setups.
Pull #1 plug. Use a piston stop and turn the motor CW until you hit the piston stop, then turn it CCW until you hit the piston stop again and that will give you TDC. Mark that spot where it lines up with the pointer . Then you can put the zero line of your tape on that .
Pull #1 plug. Use a piston stop and turn the motor CW until you hit the piston stop, then turn it CCW until you hit the piston stop again and that will give you TDC. Mark that spot where it lines up with the pointer . Then you can put the zero line of your tape on that .
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mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Jeff, pretty sure this will work for you. summit, ebay, amazon, autozone, etc.
Competition Cams 4795 Top Dead Center Stop 14mm Bolt-Style
Competition Cams 4795 Top Dead Center Stop 14mm Bolt-Style
Pistons stop....pffftttt.
A long screwdriver and a rag will do just dandy. Put a rag in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole and rotate the engine by hand until it forcefully blows it out. This will be your compression stroke. Once that is established, stick a long screwdriver into the hole until it contacts the top of the piston. Now, just turn the engine over until you feel the screwdriver reach the top of the stroke. There's your #1 TDC.
Not as completely accurate as the piston stop method, but it'll get you with a degree of where you're supposed to be.
I've actually made a piston stop in the past out of an old spark plug. You can just break out the porcelain and the centre of the pug and thread a nut and bolt in, in it's place.
A long screwdriver and a rag will do just dandy. Put a rag in the #1 cylinder spark plug hole and rotate the engine by hand until it forcefully blows it out. This will be your compression stroke. Once that is established, stick a long screwdriver into the hole until it contacts the top of the piston. Now, just turn the engine over until you feel the screwdriver reach the top of the stroke. There's your #1 TDC.
Not as completely accurate as the piston stop method, but it'll get you with a degree of where you're supposed to be.
I've actually made a piston stop in the past out of an old spark plug. You can just break out the porcelain and the centre of the pug and thread a nut and bolt in, in it's place.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I've done the spark plug method as well, break the porcelain off and then tap the inside of the spark plug with a 3/8 tap and screw a bolt in. Jeff mentioned he never used one before so I thought it would be best to use a regular TDC tool.
My TDC tool must be 30 years old and Ive used it more times than I can remember. IMO is worth the $10 to have in your tool box.
Another thing he's going to need with the piston stop tool since he doesn't have any markings on the balancer, is a degree wheel.
Either that, or a straight edge a felt marker and a good eye to mark each point in the rotation.
Either that, or a straight edge a felt marker and a good eye to mark each point in the rotation.
Ahh, well if you're heads are off, you won't need the piston stop at all. Go pick yourself up a cheap dial indicator, with a magnetic base and set it up that way.
Remember, the pistons going to dwell at the top of the stroke for a degree or two before it heads back down the bore again, so make sure to note on your degree wheel where it stops it's upward stroke and where it starts it's downward stroke again, then split the difference. That will be your true TDC.
Remember, the pistons going to dwell at the top of the stroke for a degree or two before it heads back down the bore again, so make sure to note on your degree wheel where it stops it's upward stroke and where it starts it's downward stroke again, then split the difference. That will be your true TDC.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
damn jeff, why didnt you say the heads were off. lol No need for a piston stop. Follow Brian's advice or use a degree wheel and a piece of metal coat hanger as a pointer.
If your using a dial indicator, Set up indicator over piston. Move piston up until you see no more movement on the indicator. Zero out the indicator then rotate CCW .100 (or any number you wish to use) before TDC. Set degree wheel to 0. Rotate crank CW to .100 (or same # as used before) after TDC Halfway is TDC.
Here's a free printable degreee wheel.
http://img20.echo.cx/img20/4583/degreewheel9dg.jpg
If your using a dial indicator, Set up indicator over piston. Move piston up until you see no more movement on the indicator. Zero out the indicator then rotate CCW .100 (or any number you wish to use) before TDC. Set degree wheel to 0. Rotate crank CW to .100 (or same # as used before) after TDC Halfway is TDC.
Here's a free printable degreee wheel.
http://img20.echo.cx/img20/4583/degreewheel9dg.jpg
Here's some help once you find TDC...
Timing tape - locate TDC, align the tape TDC mark with the balancer TDC and stick on.Bingo! Timing marks to help you setup the other stuff...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8985/overview/
OR
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-balancer/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=139829_0_0_
Timing tape - locate TDC, align the tape TDC mark with the balancer TDC and stick on.Bingo! Timing marks to help you setup the other stuff...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8985/overview/
OR
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...-balancer/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=139829_0_0_
