Found two possible project cars, could use opinions

TxFrog1999

Founding Member
Jan 29, 2001
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36
Arlington, TX
Well I've been looking around for the past three months after selling my 200 GT vert for a suitable project for my next car. I've come across what appear to be two good prospects, but since I really have a limited knowledge of classics I'd like to see if any of you experts could lend your opinions.

Car 1 - $2500

This car is currently in Austin, TX (about 3 hours from my home in Arlington) and is certainly the definition of project. The following is information I gathered from corresponding with the owner (he appears to be very up front and honest):

Here's a slightly more detailed description of the car's condition -

Besides the cowl, the body's pretty solid. There are some small dents
(mainly on passenger quarter) that need to be filled or hammered out. The
fenders are both solid, one of them is actually a brand new repop part
that I shot with primer.

The interior is ready to be reassembled and put back in the car. Two
bucket seats have been recovered, and the back seat is is good enough shape that
you could wipe it down and install it as it. I've got new carpet, new
underlayment, a new headliner kit stitting boxed up as it came from
Mustangs
Unlimited, and all the glove box/ashtray/radio stuff is in boxes. All the
chrome is in good shape, in a box in my garage. I have almost all of the
original badges/insignia, save for a few letters that were missing when I
got the car.

The windshields are in place, but not fully installed, as I was waiting
to
put them in after the headliner was done. I have all new> gaskets/weatherstrip for the entire car (windshields, doors, trunk lid,
etc.), the little felt strips that go at the base of the windows...

The main bulk of my work in this car went into the motor. It has been
completely torn down and rebuilt. The block is bored .030 over, and I had
it hot tanked and magnafluxed. The crank and cam are brand new, all new
main bearings, cam bearings, rod bearings, rings, new pistons, rebuilt
holley 650CFM carb, new water pump, the radiator has been completely
flushed
and cleaned out. I had the heads professionally rebuilt, with new springs
and new valve seats installed. I have reciepts (and a depressing total
cost) for all of the motor work I had done.

The transmission looks very clean inside, I've installed a new clutch and
pressure plate, (10") and had the flywheel resurfaced.

I haven't messed with the rear end, all I can tell you is that it's an 8
inch.

This car does not have a title, but I had a state trooper run the VIN and
it's clear. I didn't bother to apply for a bonded title yet because I
figured I'd take care of the mechanical stuff before I dealt with the legal
stuff.

Basically, I've got pretty much all the parts you need to finish the car, I
just don't have time to finish it. (And I've returned to college and no
longer live in Texas!)

Another message as a followup with a few questions I had and here is his response:

The engine has never been started. Everything's in place except the exhaust
pipes (which I don't have - the car came with headers and straight pipes,
which are a little loud for public streets) I rebuilt the motor, installed
it, and then had planned to finish out the car before starting the engine -
Also, it still needs to have the distributor dropped into place at the
proper timing. I installed it loosely (and at a random position) just so I
could have it in the motor.

1) What color are the interior parts you have?
all black - the dashpad (in good shape, no cracks), the seats are black
vinyl, black carpet, black metal trim, door handles, headliner, trim pieces,
the door panels (original, ready to be reinstalled) are also black. The
steering wheel (black) has some cracks around the base, but is usable.

2) What interior and exterior parts are missing or in poor condition?
you will probably want go get new side mirrors. One is missing, and the
other is kind of ragged looking. I have most of the "mustang" letters and
emblems. I had not planned on reusing them, but I've got them bagged and
boxed in my garage. The bit of interior that goes behind the back seat is
in crummy shape - the covering is torn up, and the fiberboard is cracked. I
still have the fiberboard, for use in making a pattern for a replacement.
The heater core is in good shape, except that the cardboard portion has been
cracked - you could probably patch the hole with a bit of fiberglass.

3) I noticed the images do not show the front or rear valences or the grill
do you have them?
yes. I have the front valence, and a new repop rear one (for dual exhaust)
Also, I've got the front grill and the big chrome mustang that goes inside,
both in good shape. The grill needs to be repainted. I have three bumpers,
in various degrees of repair.

4) What Transmission is in the car (I noted from your last email its a
manual, but no mention of a model or type)?
It's a 4-speed Toploader

5) The front tires and wheels look to be in bad shape, are those the current
wheels?
those are the current tires. You should replace them. I have at least one
full set of mustang hubcaps, plus a few spares. They're in OK shape, not
great. I was planning on using somewhat plain racing-type rims.

6) How are the suspension and brakes? Did you do any upgrades on those
parts? I did not to anything to the brakes besides replace the hard and
soft lines, and install a new master cylinder. The brakes are manual, drums
all around. The suspension is from a V-8 car, and I installed 4 new shocks.

7) You mentioned you shot most of the car in primer (except what appears to
be the passenger door, hood and trunk lid), how long has it been sitting in
that condition and what noticeable body flaws are present (misaligned body
panels, dings, etc)?
I shot the car with an epoxy primer (DP-90, I believe) It has been sitting
that way (but covered) for about 6 months. Besides the dents I mentioned
earlier, there are no other apparent body flaws. Everything looks to be
pretty straight, except for the dent right behind the passenger side door -
If you come down and check it out, you'll see what I'm talking about.

8) Is all of the wiring present and in good condition? I noticed the spark
plug wires are missing (probably due to the way you loosely installed the
ignition system), just curious.
I have a set of spark plug wires that I did not bother to install. I had
two wiring harnesses, I used what I felt was the best. There are a couple
of splices in the harness that runs through the engine compartment, and I am
missing the

9) I appreciate your honesty with me, but is there any rust in the shock
mounts, trunk or beneath the primer you shot? Bondo'd areas?
I stripped the car down to bare metal (except some of the tough-to-get
places between the rear quarters and the wheel wells), treated everything
for rust (used spray phosphoric acid) and ground out all the bondo. There
are a couple of dings on the rear passenger side quarter that you'll notice
are a different color primer - That's where I tried my hand at body work, so
you will find some bondo there. Otherwise, the body should be bondo-free.

The major load-bearing parts of the car (shock mounts/towers, frame rails,
etc) were all in very good shape.

10) You mentioned the cowl is not in good shape, which is of course a
problem area in many classic mustangs, but can you describe the extent of
the damage? I need to know if I'm going to need a donor car for another
weld in cowl or can fill the holes and work some bondo magic.
>From what I could see, the only damage was right around the air vents. I
glued in place a couple of those plastic "hats," (This car was never
intended as a daily driver for me) but you could probably section out the
rusted part without too much trouble.

As for the request, I know this Mustang started life as a Plane Jane V6, and
you have already mentioned the car is clean, but without a title. I was
curious if you could send me the VIN number so I can check the original specs
of the car?
Sorry, but I don't have the VIN readily available. I don't want to hassle
my mom to go out looking for it (can't remember if I installed the hood
hinges, wouldn't want her grappling with it if I hadn't)

I hope I answered all your questions well enough. Also, I should mention
that I've got quite a few books that will go with the car - shop manual,
"Guide to restoring your classic mustang," "how to restore your classic car"
"ford small block performance" "how to rebuild your ford 351c".... A bunch
of stuff.

Here are a few pics of the car:

67002.jpg

67003.jpg

67004.jpg

67005.jpg

67006.jpg



Car 2 - $3000

I don't have nearly as much information on this stang as the one above but here is what I do know, and this car is only about 30 minutes from my home (Irving, TX):

Original ad:

Ford Mustang Coupe. Nice driving Mustang with original matching number re-built 289 V8 c.i. motor. New power steering pump and hose. Red paint with black interior. AM/FM Stereo tape player. This is my daughter's car and is for sale due to a new car purchase. - Irving, TX

Upon emailing the owner he was his response:

The interior is in good
condition. The only rust is a pinhole in the floorpan. There
are no major dents in the body. The engine has been rebuilt,
but it is the original engine. It has 81,000 miles on it since
it was rebuilt. It is an automatic.

And the only image of the car:

67Irving.jpg


My personal thoughts are the Irving stang is too good to be true, especially a matching numbers car, and I'm leaning a bit toward the project car in Austin based on the engine and that I'd rather have a project that isn't a restore.

Sorry for the long post, but you can never have too much information :D
 
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The second car has a clean title and all? I'd go with that simply because it runs. You can find a 351W block or whatever and take your time to build it while you have the 289 in there working for you to enjoy the car.

Good luck!
 
All good points... am I just being a bit too cautious considering the asking price of the second car? Most of the 67 coupes I've seen on the net or in AutoTrader are over 5,000 for a good running car with matching numbers.
 
TxFrog1999 said:
And that about sums up my decision... thanks a lot guys. I think I'll set up a time to go see the second car.

I see how you are..... :D lol

It is the better buy of the two. Hope it works out for you!! I love my 67... :nice:
Now if I can just get it finished..... :banana:
 
Well the Irving car has been sold... and not to me :(

Oh well...

Good news is I got a new email from the owner in Austin and this is looking like a better deal with each correspondence. I'm going down to take a look at the car in the next week or so and if the car is as solid as he says I'll end up buying it. I don't need the car to be running right now, and the drivetrain in this car seems to be well worth the initial investment.
 
Spreadman said:
Just hurry up and BUY something ya boob! :p ;)

:p Scotty, you have to give this some time if I'm going to find a car that'll look good at meets sitting next to Sundance :hail2:

BTW I just got back in town and on my way through Austin I got a chance to see the car... I'm not thrilled with what I saw, I took about 10 minutes of video on my Canon ZR, I'll do a better write up on my opinion and cut some video for y'all to see later tonight... in the mean time I need to hammer out a DVD for a client in the next 10 hours :bang:
 
If I were you, I'd make double sure (on your own) regarding the titling of car #1. We had a car that had no title (tranferable registration due to the year), and it was a HUGE issue with the NYS DMV. Thank goodness the guy we bought it off of was still in contact with the guy HE bought it from, because we needed a bunch of ppwk signed by him to reregister the car.

It mentiond "aside from the cowl" in the 1st quote you posted-are you ready to repair a cowl? I hear its a real PITA.

Also, about rebuilt motors. Ours was (by the po) on the 73, BUT it wasn't done correctly, and now we have a junk 302 and are looking for a new motor. Basically, the cylinder walls were ovaled (no longer round), and it was only honed (already bored .30 over). Major piston slap insued, along with a nice big gouge in a cylinder wall.

I may be a bit overcautious, but I'd keep looking, unless your set on that car and ready for a surprise or two along the way!
 
electricgreen said:
If I were you, I'd make double sure (on your own) regarding the titling of car #1. We had a car that had no title (tranferable registration due to the year), and it was a HUGE issue with the NYS DMV. Thank goodness the guy we bought it off of was still in contact with the guy HE bought it from, because we needed a bunch of ppwk signed by him to reregister the car.

It mentiond "aside from the cowl" in the 1st quote you posted-are you ready to repair a cowl? I hear its a real PITA.

Also, about rebuilt motors. Ours was (by the po) on the 73, BUT it wasn't done correctly, and now we have a junk 302 and are looking for a new motor. Basically, the cylinder walls were ovaled (no longer round), and it was only honed (already bored .30 over). Major piston slap insued, along with a nice big gouge in a cylinder wall.



I may be a bit overcautious, but I'd keep looking, unless your set on that car and ready for a surprise or two along the way!

I agree about the title. Reread the question list you had, and you covered alot of what I was asking, so I did edit on this post.
Are those aluminum heads on there? If so they are worth about 1/2 of his asking price new. Engine looks like it could be made to run fairly easily to check out. Ask him to do it. VIN sounds a little fishy, he already had it run but now does not have it available? He wants to sell the car, but does not want to bother his mom? All she has to do is look through the windshield, not open the hood. I would not buy anything without checking more into VIN. May not be his car to sell.
 
I thought it was a 67?
VIN is on the left inner fender apron... have him give you the dataplate info off the driver's door too.
Personally, I would take my time and buy something that I could drive in between working on it.
Dicking with screwed up or questionable VIN's is a PITA.