For me the big turn off is filler needing to go out on first. So epoxy seems more user friendly.
subbing. google has plenty of contradicting opinions on the epoxy vs etch debate, from what i'm gathering though is that etch may be more suited to a production shop, while epoxy may be better for situations like most of us hobbyists are in where a project may spend a lot of time sitting between stages (more moisture proof). obviously not a pro here, i just do a lot of reading.
I would mostly agree with that statement. Don't mix etch with the epoxy though. The epoxy doesn't like the acid.subbing. google has plenty of contradicting opinions on the epoxy vs etch debate, from what i'm gathering though is that etch may be more suited to a production shop, while epoxy may be better for situations like most of us hobbyists are in where a project may spend a lot of time sitting between stages (more moisture proof). obviously not a pro here, i just do a lot of reading.
For number one: 3M and SEM both have a spray texturing. It comes in different levels of texture. Anything from barely noticeable to really rough. Take a piece of the interior with you to show whomever you're buying from what degree of texturing you want. It comes in both a rattle can or a can you spray through a gun.OK Dave,.....I gotta question...
On interior plastic panels that I'm getting ready to color change.
#1. I've had to repair the plastic where there were chinks missing w/ fiberglass. That has netted a smooth finish where every thing else has a texture. How do I replicate the texture of the panel?
#2. What (besides thoroughly cleaning the panel w/ Dawn, then followed by a wax/grease remover) do I need to insure that I have the best adhesion? Seems every time I've used the supposed vinyl "Dyes", they aren't any more durable than if I had sprayed the things in rattle can lacquer.
I'm using a spray-able SEM product,...I also have cans of stuff labeled as "adhesion promoter".....
What should I do here Chief?
Pretty much. Yes before primer.Would you suggest that same promoter for bumpers and side skirts for our cars? Before primer?
Etch primer is used just for bonding to bare metal.So do you etch prime the urethane parts still after adhesion promoter or do you do adhesion/build/seal/color?
And another question while I'm thinking about it. I know you had those doors blasted all around, but if you hadn't and there was still factory paint on the back side of those doors (or the inside of the car), what would the process be? Feather out the old stuff, or just scuff it and prime over it?
Pretty much. Yes before primer.
We used to have to different plastic adhesion promoters for the two main types of plastic used in making bumper covers. There were two different ways to tell which plastic we had, one: we would burn a small piece of the plastic cut from the panel. If it burned smoky, we'd use one type of adhesion promoter, if it burned clear, we'd use the other. The second: small piece of plastic in a cup of water, if it floated, one AP, it sank, the other.
Now, we just have one type of adhesion promoter that works with either.
Like I told Mike though, use a plastic adhesion promoter. NOT a can that just say adhesion promoter.
BTW, the adhesion promoter provides a chemical bond to the plastic. You still want the mechanical bond (sand the part). But the chemical bond allows the molecules of the plastic and the coating you put on it to bond, in other words, stick.
Yes sir. Spray the plastic with the adhesion promoter first, then primer.I got the very can of the stuff you're talking about. But I have fiberglass repairs that need finishing (pinholes,....slight imperfections) don't I have to prime that stuff as well w/ regular ol primer?
Yes sir. Spray the plastic with the adhesion promoter first, then primer.
Looks nice man, good job.View attachment 566281 View attachment 566280 Hey all, thought I'd share a couple of pictures of the doors, trunk lid, and jambs, I painted Sunday and cleared on Monday. Turned out pretty nice.
Thanks Dave, I appreciate that.Looks nice man, good job.
What a freaking deal! Good job man. You're doing exactly what I would do in that situation.So, you may remember the pictures of my "cave-n-pave" rear quarter panel from earlier in the thread. In working on the car, I've realized that the whole front end is pushed to the drivers side. The kinks in the aprons confirmed my suspicion. I talked to a buddy who had a "shell that i could cut the quarter out of". I went to talk to him last weekend about getting the quarter. Turns out the "shell" is a 90 GT. Perfect body, hatch, doors, and all glass.. No front sheetmetal, but the aprons are DEAD STRAIGHT. It has a GT inner bumper with both foglights/brackets. No engine, but still has a T5 hanging in it. Theres also a Moser axled, 5 lug swapped rear end, a set of front coilovers, and he thinks he still has the 5lug stuff for the front. Oh, and it has a clean title with it. I ended up agreeing to give him $100 for the whole thing. I'm hoping to go get it this weekend if i can borrow a truck/trailer. I plan on stripping the shell and painting it, and then swapping my interior/ drivetrain/ etc over into the shell. Should make a lot nicer car than what i've got right now. I'll post pics when I get it
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?