Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

Chuckman · Jan 23, 2017

so while this thread is up, here's a bit of an oddball question.

because if it's low price and massive availability, i'm just going to use black rustoleum (instead of por15 or similar) under the car, in the wheel wells, and floorboards (i actually used some about 5 years ago on the floors back when i was replacing burned wiring ~5 years ago, and it's held up great). was going to get one of the cheap hf guns to spray it for some practice/trigger time before stepping up to epoxy and/or a decent gun.

with it being an oil base, will doing that cause any problems with a typical epoxy (probably spi) or other primer/paint somewhere else in the process where they overlap? or will it just need enough cure time before something else goes on top of it?

Davedacarpainter · Jan 23, 2017

Chuckman said:
so while this thread is up, here's a bit of an oddball question.

because if it's low price and massive availability, i'm just going to use black rustoleum (instead of por15 or similar) under the car, in the wheel wells, and floorboards (i actually used some about 5 years ago on the floors back when i was replacing burned wiring ~5 years ago, and it's held up great). was going to get one of the cheap hf guns to spray it for some practice/trigger time before stepping up to epoxy and/or a decent gun.

with it being an oil base, will doing that cause any problems with a typical epoxy (probably spi) or other primer/paint somewhere else in the process where they overlap? or will it just need enough cure time before something else goes on top of it?

Anytime you use a product that uses a mild acid etching, like rustoleum, you can have problems with epoxies. The acid can return to solution with the spraying of the epoxy upper coat. This breaks down epoxies. But, it's not an issue for the average urethane.

Lawill92 · Jan 23, 2017

I'm gonna repaint my 92 mustang and my question is to paint the car the same color do I need to take the car down to bare metal or just rough it up and spray on top of old paint?

Lawill92 · Jan 23, 2017

I'm gonna repaint my 92 mustang and my question is to paint the car the same color do I need to take the car down to bare metal or just rough it up and spray on top of old paint?

billison · Jan 23, 2017

If your paint is good without cracking, rust, or flakes and has not been repainted a bunch of times you can skuff and prime what's there

Lawill92 · Jan 23, 2017

It has never been repainted and Ijust have a few places that need body filler other than that the paint is in really good shape

Chuckman · Jan 23, 2017

Davedacarpainter said:
Anytime you use a product that uses a mild acid etching, like rustoleum, you can have problems with epoxies. The acid can return to solution with the spraying of the epoxy upper coat. This breaks down epoxies. But, it's not an issue for the average urethane.

So what exactly would the process be then? Better off going with something different (por15, Eastwood chassis paint, etc)?

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

Chuckman said:
So what exactly would the process be then? Better off going with something different (por15, Eastwood chassis paint, etc)?

The rustoleum is fine. Just don't apply a epoxy product directly over it. Regular urethane products won't have any problem. Though it should be allowed to dry and then scuffed to allow mechanical adhesion.

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

Lawill92 said:
It has never been repainted and Ijust have a few places that need body filler other than that the paint is in really good shape

The only places to take to metal is where you need to do body work.

Let me qualify that as well. If you have scratches that you'll feather out, you'll want to put at least a couple layers of primer on those areas.

While on the newer fox mustangs urethane products were used, the age of the paint could cause lifting issues where there is any damage to it. The paint will be more porous after this much time. Porosity will allow the fresh chemicals to soak into the old substrate and the underneath layers stand a chance of re-liquefying (lifting). The primer will provide a barrier to that.

So, if the paint is in decent condition, no, you won't have to strip it.

If the top surfaces like the hood, roof and deck lid/hatch have delaminated clear coat, then you'll want to strip those panels.

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

This is not a painting question, maybe pre-paint?
The frame below the right apron has damage from a low speed hit directly to the right bumper bracket. The damage is mainly at the shock tower where it connects to that front rail, of course the radiator support at the intersection of that rail is wrinkled but no other visable damage, fender fits fine, door fits fine, still drives straight, my question is pull it or replace it,
No picks, its stored in my car port piled with 'stuff' around it.
86 gt 5 spd I got it before the po could screw it up.

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

karthief said:
This is not a painting question, maybe pre-paint?
The frame below the right apron has damage from a low speed hit directly to the right bumper bracket. The damage is mainly at the shock tower where it connects to that front rail, of course the radiator support at the intersection of that rail is wrinkled but no other visable damage, fender fits fine, door fits fine, still drives straight, my question is pull it or replace it,
No picks, its stored in my car port piled with 'stuff' around it.
86 gt 5 spd I got it before the po could screw it up.

Can it be aligned?

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

Davedacarpainter said:
Can it be aligned?

Not sure what you mean. It drives straight, no shock tower damage, just that area of the rail where it connects to the shock tower, I would call it the crush area, like it was designed to cruse in that area.

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

karthief said:
Not sure what you mean. It drives straight, no shock tower damage, just that area of the rail where it connects to the shock tower, I would call it the crush area, like it was designed to cruse in that area.

I mean like be measured and adjusted to alignment of the suspension.

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

I did the string line toe in/out and measured rear wheel center to front center line and it seems the damage is only in front of the shock tower.
I stopped by a body shop and had an experienced body man look at it, this was a couple years ago when I moved it from my shop to the carport at my house, he gave me a price to pull it and said he would have to heat it to pull it out, I'm just wondering about heat and pull verses replacing the rail,

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

karthief said:
I did the string line toe in/out and measured rear wheel center to front center line and it seems the damage is only in front of the shock tower.
I stopped by a body shop and had an experienced body man look at it, this was a couple years ago when I moved it from my shop to the carport at my house, he gave me a price to pull it and said he would have to heat it to pull it out, I'm just wondering about heat and pull verses replacing the rail,

The pull would be far cheaper, unless you do the replacing yourself.

Heating the metal to get it to stretch back into place removes a little of the tensile strength of the metal. That said, it just means you should not try to get in another wreck.

Do you want to try the repair?

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

Not sure yet, looking at options, I originally planned a swap to a nice 86 coupe I had but sold, yea, stupid but the gt is worth fix'n in my opinion, tried selling it a couple years ago but the damage scared people.

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

karthief said:
Not sure yet, looking at options, I originally planned a swap to a nice 86 coupe I had but sold, yea, stupid but the gt is worth fix'n in my opinion, tried selling it a couple years ago but the damage scared people.

If you want to do the repair yourself, it's far easier with the engine pulled.

Repair it! Why should I be the only one having fun?

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

Davedacarpainter said:
If you want to do the repair yourself, it's far easier with the engine pulled.

Repair it! Why should I be the only one having fun?

Yea, I hear ya, I'm afraid of the dreaded stang-ball effect, I gotta pull the engine to fix the damage, while thats out paint the engine compartment, then paint the car, now that crappy interior, 5 lug swap, new wheels/tires then you want more power, and the stang-ball keeps on rolling!

Davedacarpainter · Jan 24, 2017

karthief said:
Yea, I hear ya, I'm afraid of the dreaded stang-ball effect, I gotta pull the engine to fix the damage, while thats out paint the engine compartment, then paint the car, now that crappy interior, 5 lug swap, new wheels/tires then you want more power, and the stang-ball keeps on rolling!

Well.....sure.....while your there you should go ahead and smooth the engine bay, right? @RaggedGT ,help me out here.

General karthief · Jan 24, 2017

Thats just what I need

ENCOURAGEMENT.

Lets just skip right to the twin turbos
Or compound boost

Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

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GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Chicks can make things hard if they’re inspired...

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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