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Paint and Body Fox Body Painting 101

  • Thread starter Thread starter Davedacarpainter
  • Start date Start date Mar 24, 2016
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billison

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#701
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #701
Hey Dave, a couple questions. I’m starting on my doors. In the jamb there is a strip of “ I dunno what” that’s chipped up , same thing on my hatch. What is it and how do I replace it? Pic below. My guess is seam sealer. While I’m working on it, how would I check to make sure the door drains properly? Or is drilling a hole a bad idea?

Also I’m starting to plan how I’m actually gonna paint the car. I’ve painted the jambs on the car and will probably get the doors and hatch jambs before long. Any reason to not get them installed and paint them at the same time as the body?
 

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Davedacarpainter

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#702
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #702
Yeah Bill, that’s seam sealer. I use a wire brush on a drill to take the old stuff of my panels. You’ll find that in areas under the hood as well.

You’ll want a good two part “epoxy” style seam sealer to replace it with. Flowable seam sealer is the best to use, but it’s a pita when doing the curved areas of the door, it flows back along the curved sections and wants to
puddle in the center area. I used a heavy body seam sealer on the doors for that reason. It takes a little more work to make it lay out nice.

Here’s a picture of my hood when I masked it to seam seal. I’ll come up with a couple more pictures in just a little bit.
The seam sealer helps, believe it or not, to prevent rust along the entire edge. It causes moisture to be directed towards the weep holes.

As for more weep holes? You can, just make an elongated hole similar to the factory holes. That helps to prevent blockages from larger crap.

You’ll want to get some sort of corrosion protection spray inside the panels along the bottom areas to seal up from the inside too. Nothing difficult there, you can use the same stuff that I spray inside my frame rails. You can find a parrafin type that has a little plastic wand that can direct the spray where you want it. There are other things that you can use as well, like POR 15 (rust encapsulators).

You can paint your car with the panels on or off. Though it will be easier to paint everything off so you can avoid having tape lines in the jambs. If you go that route, be sure to put tape along all the edges before mounting the panels after it’s painted so you don’t scratch anything during reassembly. The hatch would be easier shooting off, then you can paint the jambs at the same time as the outside. Nice and smooth that way.

I’ll post more pictures here shortly along with a little more explanation on painting.
 

Davedacarpainter

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#703
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #703
I'm running out of battery, so here's a few more pictures of prep for seam sealing. You'll want to be able to remove the guide tape just shortly after getting the seam sealer on the panel so it can flow out on the sides. Wait until the ss starts to harden, it'll only be three or four minutes, then pull the tape. In the end you can smooth it with sandpaper after it hardens though.
 
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billison

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#704
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #704
Any tips for stripping door jambs?
 

Davedacarpainter

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#705
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #705
If you can get one of those little hand held sandblasters, they work great. I think they’re pretty cheap at HF. That’s how I stripped my driver’s door.
 

billison

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#706
  • Dec 10, 2017
  • #706
Good idea! I’ll grab one.
 

billison

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#707
  • Dec 11, 2017
  • #707
Good call on the sand blaster. Found a deal on one with the 50lb bucket. It’ll take some time but it’s cleanimg the jambs right up.
 
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billison

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#708
  • Dec 31, 2017
  • #708
Hey Dave. Cleaning some surface rust out of the seam on a door. I plan to sand, blast and otherwise remove everything that I can. Would you suggest using a rust converter before prime? Worried about anything in the seam that can’t be reached
 

Davedacarpainter

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#709
  • Dec 31, 2017
  • #709
billison said:
Hey Dave. Cleaning some surface rust out of the seam on a door. I plan to sand, blast and otherwise remove everything that I can. Would you suggest using a rust converter before prime? Worried about anything in the seam that can’t be reached
Click to expand...
Yes. Let it go down in the seam and dry first. I did that on my doors.
 

RaggedGT

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#710
  • Jan 14, 2018
  • #710
Hey dave,
I’m wanting to paint the cast aluminum wheels on my wife’s Lexus , and was wondering if you would give me some pointers (or basically a step by step How To .)
Also.. I Really liked that Gray color you used for Doby’s stripe- What’s the color called?
Thanks again dave
 
K

kendawg73

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Jan 16, 2018
#711
  • Jan 16, 2018
  • #711
? you want to put the seam sealer down before the paint right, and then paint over it? But can you prime with epoxy primer first, then seam seal, then paint? I will need to do the same thing to mine this spring... mine is cracking off like that.. .and also in the door jamb where the door latch is... so I need to do all that... too... I'm gong to attempt to paint my car this spring/summer... (just gong to paint it white again).. I already have most of the car apart... so figure I should paint it before putting back together... just need to pull the doors off... the fenders, bumpers, hood, and ground effects are already off... I figure it's a lot easier to paint the parts seperatly as well as the shell of the body... not as much area to cover at one time, so you don't have to make that long pass from the rear to front if the car was whole... (not like doing the side from back to front if all together, that's alot of area to do at a time and chance for mistake).
 

Davedacarpainter

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#712
  • Jan 16, 2018
  • #712
Yes, primer, seam seal and then paint.
 

Davedacarpainter

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#713
  • Jan 16, 2018
  • #713
RaggedGT said:
Hey dave,
I’m wanting to paint the cast aluminum wheels on my wife’s Lexus , and was wondering if you would give me some pointers (or basically a step by step How To .)
Also.. I Really liked that Gray color you used for Doby’s stripe- What’s the color called?
Thanks again dave
Click to expand...
I’ll get back with you tonight on this Chris, sorry I spaced out your question.
 
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kendawg73

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#714
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #714
Here's a paint ? for your... my 90 GT is white... I was just going to paint it white again... but I'm thinking... I live the Matte paint look... I was just black, but now a lot of colors are being offered even on factory cars... so I was thinking of doing Matte White... and I guess go over it with the matte clear coat.... how is painting with matte paint compared to regular? I've google a few pics, and what I seen so far looks pretty good to me, what's everyone else's thoughts?
 

billison

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Jan 22, 2018
#715
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #715
I know this much, the matte clear has to be shot correctly. With clear you have room for error,you cut cut and buff lots of mistakes. Matte however can not be corrected like that.

That said, I think matt white could look real good. I wish there was a way to get matte window tint to match
 

Davedacarpainter

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#716
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #716
kendawg73 said:
Here's a paint ? for your... my 90 GT is white... I was just going to paint it white again... but I'm thinking... I live the Matte paint look... I was just black, but now a lot of colors are being offered even on factory cars... so I was thinking of doing Matte White... and I guess go over it with the matte clear coat.... how is painting with matte paint compared to regular? I've google a few pics, and what I seen so far looks pretty good to me, what's everyone else's thoughts?
Click to expand...
Matte clear isn’t very hard to shoot at all.

In general though, I would shoot it with a gloss clear first to provide better UV protection first, let that harden, sand down with 800/1000 grit sandpaper and shoot the matte finish.

Like Bill mentioned though, you don’t want dirt. If you buff matte clear it will make it glossy.

A real matte finish paint job is a pita to take care of. You best be ready to baby it.

It can be done and I’ve shot a few myself in a matte finish. You’ll really want a paint booth to shoot it in though, one that has a bake cycle too so the paint won’t stay open allowing dirt to settle into your new paint job.
 

Hoytster

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Jan 22, 2018
#717
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #717
@Davedacarpainter Just want to give you a shout out for this awesome thread. I haven't made my way through it all yet but what I have read so far is invaluable.
 
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billison

I like tinted tail
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Jan 22, 2018
#718
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #718
If I wanted to do a matte job, I would look into a matte vinyl rap. Lots of places do it, and if you’re current paint is good, it’ll be protected
 
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kendawg73

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#719
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #719
well, maybe I will just paint it regular white.... lol... So single stage or base/clear? (did the 90's have clear on them from factory?)
 

Davedacarpainter

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#720
  • Jan 22, 2018
  • #720
kendawg73 said:
well, maybe I will just paint it regular white.... lol... So single stage or base/clear? (did the 90's have clear on them from factory?)
Click to expand...
Yes and no. Sorry, some years did and some didn’t.

There’s also a plastic-dip type product you can get that is very trick. It can be made glossy or matte.

It’s not as durable as a regular paint job, but I’ve seen the results and it can look very good.

A bit cheaper than a full paint job too.

Let me see if I can dig up the name of it real quick.

@ebk06 used this on his car and it looks gorgeous! Here’s a video link he used to let me know more about it.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7J6rRj98A5s&ebc=ANyPxKpTCEhu5CDMwBEIq6rOTXoCCAjvw6ZvX3gToqKylaUSLQ8XSATMN1Z_76VODBKlvDKH95Thbkt1hoB0yxccB5_ID9QpvA
 
Last edited: Jan 22, 2018
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