Yep, sounds like a plan.I think you can solve your issue here and then make that decision later on.
When I ran the 95 GT MC with my cobra brakes, my pedal was soft, but all 4 brakes worked nicely. But it was more pedal travel than I wanted.
Given that you said that your pedal feels ok, proceed for now, however keep this in the back of your mind. One reason the pedal feels ok now is if you have a restriction in flow, it builds pressure at the MC. This could be related to your issue. Solve the rear caliper issue first, and then if you determine you don't like the pedal feel, change the MC later.
For now the prop. Adj. valve will stay where it is now, it is kind of easy to access it to make adjustments for bleeding. Just will delete the stock proportioning valve and leave just the hard lines tucked against the strut tower, it will look clean and maybe latter I will install a lock-line solenoidFYI--The adjustable proportional valve can be located where the stock proportional valve was at. Looks cleaner IMO. Only 1 adapter is needed for the top fitting, the stock lines will thread right into the bottom and rear of the valve.
By the way I will customize the hard brake lines under the master cylinder replacing the mixed size brake line nuts for one size only. It will look simpler and cleanerFor now the prop. Adj. valve will stay where it is now, it is kind of easy to access it to make adjustments for bleeding. Just will delete the stock proportioning valve and leave just the hard lines tucked against the strut tower, it will look clean and maybe latter I will install a lock-line solenoid
Thanks for the info
All the calipers working fine.A you are 100% sure that the calipers are functioning correctly? On these cars about 70%+ of the braking is done with the front brakes. What type of soft lines do you have going from the hard lines to the front calipers? Have you ever replaced the rear soft line between the body and the rear end?
All the calipers working fine.So what are you using for the soft lines? OEM style rubber or SS braided teflon? If rubber how long have they been on the car and were they new when installed?
I do have an IR gun, never crossed my mind running that test.Do you have an IR temp gun?
If so, can you go for a drive. Average driving, and periodically shoot the rotors? Maybe go make a couple good stops and check temps? On my two with each having cobra brakes, I get about roughly the same temps after 10 mins of driving with the rears a tiny bit cooler.
Did you ever crack bleeders and check for good flow to the rears? What about sticking the rear end up on jackstands and putting it in first gear and seeing how much brake pressure it actually requires to slow/stop the wheels.
A brake pressure gauge might come in handy too.
I hate to say change the MC without doing the above because I’m not convinced fully it’s the mc yet. At this point I’m still checking things off the list and gathering data
I bought them from Summit RacingWhere were the rear calipers sourced from?
Yeah those hawk pads are damn dusty!Wanted finish my incomplete though with regards to bedding the brakes. If you have done this and you still are not satisfied with the performance of the ceramic brake pads or the Hawk HPS (these need more heat in them to work properly) something is definitely wrong. I had the Hawk HPS on my car when it had the GT/V6 brakes and the 99+ front calipers and it would clamp down hard. I did not like all the dust so I put stock Ford pads on and it still stopped really well.
Just for reference the 93, 95R and 00 Cobra MC has a 1” bore, the 94/95 V6/GT MC has a 1-1/16” bore, the 94/95 Cobra MC has a 15/16" bore, and a stock 87-93 MC roughly has a 13/16" bore.
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