So what master cylinder should I get? I followed some instructions online about the brakes upgrade where they suggested the 94-95 GT master cylinder.94-95 Cobra (with vacuum assist brakes) used the 15/16” bore MC, but also had smaller caliper pistons up front. Those units had 38mm pistons.
99-04 cobra calipers are 40.5mm pistons, which is why I personally recommend the 1” bore MC with this setup. The 1/16” larger bore matches the increase in piston surface area.
Also, I fudged up earlier when I said a 94-95 GT 1 1/16” on that setup would make the pedal soft. Opposite actually. It would be firmer. Purely subjective if it’s too firm. Once you get the system up and running and find waaay too much leg effort to stop, then you can make the change.
Sounds good, thank you.Usually I like to educate folks so they can make their own decisions….
But I’ve done this exact setup as you with the GT mc and then went 1” and it was a much better braking feel.
So yes, my opinion is you should make the change to the 1” MC
Yes IDid you modify the stock ebrake handle for the rear disc brakes? If you did that and have the adjustable cable the ceramic should hold it unless you just have some reallyty pads. V dninde gt is
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Did you modify the stock ebrake handle for the rear disc brakes? If you did that and have the adjustable cable the ceramic should hold it unless you just have some reallyty pads.
Yes I did the proper modification and yes everything is pointing to the ceramic brake pads to be the issueDid you modify the stock ebrake handle for the rear disc brakes? If you did that and have the adjustable cable the ceramic should hold it unless you just have some reallyty pads.
I used a rear disc conversion kit from SSBC on my ‘86. They’re now operating as SSBC-USA. Summit is one reseller: https://www.summitracing.com/search...&fr=part-type&ptr=disc-brake-kits&ptr_oos=260Has anyone mentioned to check the condition of the metal (body) line going to the rear brakes? If it were pinched, it would result in reduced braking on/at the rear brakes. Just a thought.
Thanks, guys, for all of hands-on information. There is a lot to think about as I upgrade my '85 to 5 lugs on the front, maybe using the 5 lug (stud) SVO rotors and not too sure what to do on the rear for a disc conversion? I have a '97 Mustang rollover vehicle with rear disc if any parts would be usable.
I'll search here and the I-net before I start a thread and ask any questions!
There are no sharp bents nor kinks on any of the hard brake lines.Has anyone mentioned to check the condition of the metal (body) line going to the rear brakes? If it were pinched, it would result in reduced braking on/at the rear brakes. Just a thought.
Thanks, guys, for all of hands-on information. There is a lot to think about as I upgrade my '85 to 5 lugs on the front, maybe using the 5 lug (stud) SVO rotors and not too sure what to do on the rear for a disc conversion? I have a '97 Mustang rollover vehicle with rear disc if any parts would be usable.
I'll search here and the I-net before I start a thread and ask any questions!
I followed all the Willwood instructions to do that.To the op, how have you adjusted the bias?
I only ask because the only mention in this thread is you opened it all the way to bleed the brakes.
Hi all,
A question to all of you.
On my ‘90 GT I have the five lug/brake conversion upgrade from a 2001 bullitt but have been dealing with not too effective braking issues. I have the 95 booster and master cylinder installed for this upgrade. For all of this project I gutted the stock proportioning valve and installed the WIlwood adjustable proportioning valve by the driver’s side strut tower.
The problem like I said is not having a strong braking and I noticed my rear brake pads are almost new while the front ones have just a quarter of the pad material left. This is telling me that the rear is not braking hardly anything.
The wilwood adjustable proportioning valve has ten turns from all closed (Counter clockwise) to full open (Clockwise). I adjusted it eight turns clockwise and still not having good rear brake pressure bias. what should I do? Should I completely delete the stock proportioning valve??? My rear brakes are not working properly even adjusting the adjustable proportioning valve eight out of ten turns clockwise?
Any help will be greatly appreciated!
100% agree on that however it seems like some of my problems lay on the pad material because it seems I don’t have that “Outstanding” braking feeling others have described and one noticeable thing así mentioned somewhere in this discussion is that when I apply the parking brake the car still sliding down no matter how hard I pull the handle so that must be that cheap ceramic pad material. I will run it like this until I finish those pads and install something better and see how it behaves.Front pads usually last 1/2 of the rears, sometimes less.
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