Fox w/ Sn95 spindle

Mustang5L5 said:

Yes you can. Press out fox bj, press in sn95 bj. No washers needed.

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god that looks funny, goes perfect with the ct, lol

as for getting em out, you'll probably want the arm out and use a press (best method), though im sure a couple blocks and a bfh will "work," just far easier to take em to a shop if you dont have access to a press.

i used 02 moog ball joints from oreillys. i also used their rental ball joint remover/installer. it works great, but you will man up on getting them in and out. you have to crank on the wrench like if you're opening a port door on the titanic! i did mine with the arms on the car

mattmcdan said:

I'd rather do the sn95 ball joints for peace of mind. I just built a nasty 408, and the car is strip only. Just eases the mind a bit.

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Gee, you don't trust ~20 year old ball joints.

Like many topics, there's the stuff you read on the web and forums, and there what is correct in real life. I tell people how to do things the correct way.

So, here's the real info:
Ford ball joints are not made to be replaced!
No argument - just read the Ford manual!


Okay. But, shops do it all the time. Yea, shops also have people that failed 3rd grade working for them, and running them, so what does that prove?



But wait, Moog to the rescue!

o Using a ball joint press so that the ball joint opening on the FCA does not distort, remove the old ORIG ball joint.

o Use a MOOG ball joint that is specially designed (slightly bigger body and has more taper to the body) to go into the Ford FCA.

o In general, you can do this ONCE, and have the ball joint snug and safe. But, note, there is no guarantee!

o If it's the 2nd+ ball joint replacement, or if the new Moog ball joint is not tight in the FCA opening after being inserted, then the bottom of the ball joint must/should be carefully MIG welded to the FCA.



BTW: Parts of the above info are based on the awesome knowledge and help from Jack from MM. I never knew that Moog had specially designed their replacement ball joints. That's also why when people use Ford OEM or Steeda X2 ball joints, they often report that the ball joints are not "tight" in the FCA opening.

BTW#2: I used new Ford FCAs since they also have the better bushings and the newer lifetime ball joints. I used the washers that came with my M2300K kit. A small company also sells similar washers. But, from what I read on the forums, some people need two per ball joint.


To the best of my knowledge, the above is correct. Every thing that I mentioned can be verified with no problem (i.e buy a Ford factory OEM and Moog ball joint and measure them, read the Ford manual, search for the thread with Jack's comments on the other Stang site, etc).

Good Luck!

My moogs were a PITA to get into the arm so I guess that counts as a tight fit! I'm telling you, go get some Moog's at Oreilly's and rent the ball joint press.

I have a ball joint tool from harbor freight that was only like $30
Worked great on my van and explorer.
So i'd assume it works fine on the mustang too.