Looking at the picture. The grey connector at the bottom of the opening is one of the two you need to look at. Comparing it to the wiring diagram I included shows its a 12 pin connector. The other connector is grey as well if I recall correctly. You will want to disconnect them (one at a time) and using a small precision screw driver, squeeze the sides of the female pins so that the gap in the pin closes (touches). Do this to all 12 pins in both connectors and see if it helps.Fuel pump relay wires should get the following with the ignition off:
Red - 0 v
Dark Green / Yellow - 0 v
Light Blue / Orange - 0 v
Pink / Black - 12 v (constant 12 v from fusible link at the starting solenoid mounted on the driver side fender apron)
Should get the following with the ignition on:
Red - 12 v (comes from the PCM power relay)
Dark Green / Yellow - 12 v (comes from the fuel pump relay via the Pink / Black wire when the coil is energized. this goes to the inertia switch and also goes to PIN 19 on the ECU for fuel pump run conformation)
Light Blue / Orange - 0 v (this is a ground generated by the ECU from PIN 22)
Pink / Black - 12 v (constant 12 v from fusible link at the starting solenoid mounted on the driver side fender apron)
Have you checked the Light Blue / Orange wire with the rebuild ECU to see if you are getting ground? Once you have everything confirmed at the fuel pump relay then you need to chase the Dark Green / Yellow wire from under the driver seat to the driver kick panel, and to the inertia switch in the trunk and make sure 12V is getting to that point. If you have 12V to the inertia switch then check the Brown / Pink wire from the inertia switch to the plug under the car at the back of the fuel tank to see if you have 12V there. Back probe the connector on the tank side (Pink / Black wire) and make sure the 12v is carried across this connector. If you have 12V there then you will need to drop the tank and see if you have 12v at the tank connector and then on to to the pump.
Another issue can be the fuel pump ground wire connection in the trunk of the car.
Here is a picture I found on here (thanks @91AOD5.0LX) of the wiring behind the driver kick panel on a '91. You can see a dark green / yellow wire in the connector in the foreground and bottom right. You can pull this connector apart, set the DVM to continuity (https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity), and check to see if this is indeed the wire from the fuel pump relay. If so put the connector back together and back prove for 12v.
This is all I have man so hopefully it helps.
What is voltage going into the relay? Did you check it?I am having the same problem, only getting 6-7 volts out of fuel pump relay all the way to the inertia switch. Relays test good and swapped with new and same problem. Thread stopped without any answer as to how you fixed it. Did you resolve your problem? If so please post the fix. Thanks
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