I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....
I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....These are what mine look like, and I screwed up a seal trying to take them off again so I guess the assembly is postponed another week anyone wanna buy a Foxbody?
Big time sucks. But in other crappy news, I purchased these because I couldn’t get the OEM ones to work. Well I don’t remember what was wrong with those ones, but they seem to fit fine now.. what the heck?I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....
I beat them up pretty bad removing the old filters. I didn’t realize until the third injector, there’s a brass fitting that should be coming out with the filter. I installed new filters without actually removing that brass ring. There’s also a little plastic ring on the fuel rail side of the injector that I crimped in a little bit trying to remove a filter. Not sure they’re fixable at this point.. at the very least I’d need to buy a new kit, but I’m scared to use these now whatever the advice is though I’ll follow it, whether I just get a new kit and try again, or buy brand new ones. If I buy new ones it’s going on a credit card lol. I’ll link a picture in a couple minutes of the damage I did.If the MAF is calibrated for 24's then just go back with them. Get some Ford Racing EV1 24's as they tend to be more reliable. If there is someone close by that can clean and flow the injectors they typically install new filters, o-rings, and pintle caps as part of the service.
Yes. Coming from the lower intake area specificallyDo you hear a whistle with the engine running?
Yes, I have a BBK 70mm. I don’t think it’s coming from there but I can’t be sure.. I don’t really hear it when I put my ear to the throttle body, it sounds more like the very front left side of the lower intake, but that is the same side as the throttle body, so maybe it’s nothing.BBK/Edelbrock throttle body?
I’m also wondering if maybe it’s O2 sensors. I replaced them in 2020ish, when we all got Covid checks, but the connections are soaked in oil from previous leaks. Maybe they’re giving off faulty readings? There’s no code going off for them though.Alrighty, I’ve driven the car for a bit and here’s where I’m at. The car idles much better with the MAF plugged in, or unplugged. It’s down on power, but that’s likely because I haven’t properly timed the car yet, I just did it by ear. I’m leaking oil out of the valve covers a bit but that’s likely due to my aluminum valve covers not cooperating with the new studs I installed. New valve covers are coming this weekend. I also haven’t gotten the hpipe to properly seat with the headers yet, so there’s a huge exhaust leak.
I’m beginning to become very stumped on what is causing this running issue, and I believe we can eliminate timing as I ensured that the engine was on TDC by looking at the rocker arms as I was setting it. I also got the rocker arms tightened to spec aswell.
I’m starting to wonder, if this vacuum leak is just the TB, could it be the PCM going out? That, or maybe it does need a tune. Should I look into getting a chip? (I can’t afford a standalone system).
As I said, the idle is pretty good, but it will idle up to 1k, settle down to 600, then after a little bit, idle back up to 1k and repeat. Maybe I need to really take my time going through the idle checklist?
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