Foxbody Mustang Cruise Control information, location, wiring diagrams

On the "other site", there's a post about how to adjust the gain of the cruise control amplifier when a larger throttle body is used - any ideas on how to do this?

Intuitively I think adding a resistor in series/parallel with the servo control circuit might accomplish this. What do you think?
 
I would think adding a resistor to two of the 3 wires coming out of the servo would sloe down it's function, but i wouldn't even know where to begin to figure out what the values would be. Seems like one of those things where it will need to be trial and error. If i had to guess where to start, perhaps another 25-50K ohms of resistance?
 
Ok, I just found mine is bad.

It's an 89 with the yellow one. It was 5spd swapped by the previous owner and still running the A9P ( In case that helps you find a pattern)
Most everything on the car is still original (or very old dealer replacement parts)
 
that's not troubleshooting, that's replacing random parts, the only similarities are it's a mustang part for cruise control.
There are Ford repair manuals out there or a member here (if it were not posted here already) can post a page from the diagnostic page.
 
I was never able to find any info on the differences between the various amplifiers. I imagine the differences are tuning in the rate at which the cruise corrects speed, min speeds it will activate and other vehicle-specific criteria.

Just a guess. I assume to find out those details would require someone from Ford who has access to the specific programming who can explain differences. I doubt that would exist
 
I don’t have a pic of everything together, but when I was about to put CC on my car I had all the parts in a box for a few weeks to keep it together and move it around. I’d be surprised if it was anything more than 10 pounds.

The biggest weight item was the servo/cable.
 
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Jack the rear off the ground and you can test it “driving” like that. Not the safest but it can be done easily.


The Ford manual actually tells you to disconnect the cable from the throttle body just in case it does go WOT during testing.
 
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